It was in Hot Rod, more for offroad, but no up close engine pics

 

Help me out with my math here....

Steen ported heads ($1000?) + TMD(The Mustang Depot) connecting rod ($400?) + new stock flat top pistons w/rings ($460?) + all new hardware and gaskets ($400?) + block was new ($500?) + didn't mention machine work ($300?) = $1200?

If you got a bunch of stuff for free or something kudo's to you but the other guy ain't gonna replicate that cost....

 

He said the heads weren't new, so I'm guessing he bought those previously for his 4.6.

 

I hear ya; i got a full 5.4 for 1100. havent bought anything new for it. i dont have the money for a full rebuild. nor will i anytime soon. it'd take me about a year to be able to afford it all.



R3d: did those plates make it out okay?

 

this is what i've got figured so far. wanna have it all planned out so that when my big payday hits the account, i can just bulk order everything.
block-stock pre-NVH 5.4, bored .020-.030 over
heads-patriot st.2, or st.3
cams- comp 270's
rods-manley torqlite's
pistons- manley flat-tops
ARP boly kits
Hardened bearings
cobra oil pump and pick-up
MSD coil packs
24 or 30 # inj.
billet fuel rail kit with T-junction
Alum. flywheel, 10.5"
HPS intake
looking for any advice available
BTW- I have a 75mm TB and upper plenum(BBK & Dragon Performance respt.) but considered going to 80mm TB and MAF
Also, let me know if I am forgetting anything.......thnx ya'll

 

I still see lots of bad comments about Patriot.....if there's one place to put some money I'd get the new TFS heads for $1995 instead. I think they'll be worth around 30-40 rwhp over the Patriot's on a nice 5.4. If TFS holds their new grinds for those heads (yet to come out) at the same $450 price point of the PI cams they have, there's $150 of the difference right there.

 

That buildup loooks just fine except for the Aluminum flywheel. Unless you are specifically drag racing your car, it will be real difficult to get your car moving smoothly with AL. I'd stick with the iron stocker as there is not much of a real performance gain with AL. Your 75mm TB & Dragon elbow should work great for your combo. One other suggestion would be to use a windage tray, there is a Morosso one for about $80 that covers the whole crank, instead of the stock cobra one that only covers half.

 

OH! My bad! I guess I could have stated my finds of awsome deals. NPI Steen heads $100, gaskets & hardware $250, new "stock" pistons w/rings+pins $80, new 2003 block $100 (minus 200 mile trip for gas $50?), $350 for rods, $100 for berings, $60 shipped for a forged crank, $50 for PI cams. That's $1090! and I'm sure I missed something. Sorry about that. And I didn't mention the machine work, because there was none.

A stock build and some patiants can be cheap! Even more now that Trick flow will introduce the new modular heads. People will want to sell the "junk" they have to get the best. Junk being, ported stage 3 heads and so on.

So they way you figured it, the math is correct!
Be patiant, look for the deals! Your build is as much as you want to pay for it, the parts are out there, just look.

Example for the last year I have picked up 3 5.4l, 4 4.6l and 2 sets of 4v "b" heads and a 5.4l DOHC timing cover. All under $300
That's 2 PI 5.4l and 1 NPI forged crank 5.4l, those 4v heads are cheap, and plans for the DOHC 5.4l cover.

 

The extra amount of money spent for a "company" to rebuild an engine you handed them, could be spent on measuring and rebuild tools.

A stock rebuild can be had on the cheap. These are not the old 350 chevy motors all the toothless rednecks(not you r3d) can build. The modulars are much easier!!!!! If they can do it, you can too.

"what about balancing and blue printing?" No reason to! It's a stock N/A rebuild.

Someone taking their time, gaining as much knowledge they can will reap great rewards!

 

There's also billet steel, which I would feel safer with than the stock cast iron piece.

But yes, unless you're road racing (not sure if you want Al coming off the line for the drags), stick w/ something easier. The 5.4 may be a torque monster but it isn't a big block so it still needs that extra mass to prevent bogging.

 

Ok, I know that I need a new hood with the Lightning setup underneath....Question is how high of a rise do I need? I found a nice 5 incher lift off hood......But I thought I had read somewhere that was even to short...

 

definitely solid advice there. If I was just starting my build I'd be putting those heads on it and some of their custom ground cams.

sure did but I boneheaded it and forgot to get the tracking number when I was there. Got kinda busy working out a new crossover tube for the new intake.

see revised list in the quote. also, you'll need a full gasket set, pilot bearing and some little odds and ends.

I have the aluminum and I agree with JScottGT. It's a much bigger PITA than it's probably worth.


A note to all: With my new HPS intake I found that the passenger side coolant tap at the rear for the heater line is now 1/2" NPT instead of the old 3/8" NPT. I have my driver side coolant passage on the manifold tapped for 3/8" NPT and a -6 line that runs between them and my heater still works. So, with the new manifold I needed to get:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=AER-FBM2139
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=AER-FBM2421
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=EAR-915186ERL
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=RUS-614406
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=RUS-670320

to retrofit for the parts I already had and to have the easiest time of it.

I already had on hand the 12" -6 hose (1 straight end, 1 90deg end), and a 3/8" NPT (m) to -6AN (m) adapter. If anyone needs this setup built for them I can do it for 95 bucks assembled and shipped. You will of course be responsible for drilling and tapping the boss on the driver side rear of the HPS intake. I can provide a tap for another 10 bucks. I'm only guessing that this is the right parts list at this point but I'll be testing it in a day or 2.

 

no need for the tracking number, they're being 2-day'd or overnighted anyway. im ready for them. intake and put my radiator back in and im ready to fire it up.

keep us posted on the whole crossover and taps and such

 

i just want to see what the intake and LT's make on the dyno since r3d is the only one to dyno the shorties and adapters first.

 

I went ahead and got HPS to install a coolant mod when I ordered mine. So for the heater hose I'm going to need a 1/2"NPT to 5/8" hose barb?

 

Ok guys, finally after looking and searching hard found myself a reasonable 5.4 engine. $200 dollars with trade of my 4.6L.
Now what parts do I have to swap to get the thing in my car. Rebuild will come later, as engine only has 20K on it. I konw I ahve to swap Oil pan and pickup, and for my t-45 I need a different flywheel?? (Dont konw which one though..help!)
Thanks for the assitance guys,
-tim

 

if i remember correctly someone said theres three grounds for the engine. where are they? ive only so far found the one that goes from the motor mount to the frame and the one that is with the wires that go by the oil filter and driver side 02 sensor

 

A 8 bolt flywheel to match whatever clutch you have now, should be 10.5"
I dont know if they're counting the one on the fuel rail

 

gotcha. another question. what are yall doing about the radiator hose where it goes to the engine at the bottom of the block? the 4.6 hose is too small.

 

Are you using the oil filter adapter from the 5.4? I just bought a set of hoses for a 4.6 and used the adapter from my 4.6 and its fine.

 

yeah im using the 5.4 adapter. didnt know i needed to change it. how hard will it be to change them since the engine and everything is already back in the car?

 

You need to use the oil filter adapter for a mustang on the engine for it to fit up with the coolant hoses. See picture below.

 

damnit. okay so how did you get to the top bolt on the back of the adapter? its almost like nothing fits!

 

If you dont have everything hooked up, it might not be too bad, its only 4 bolts, but they're in a bad place.


Wrench, time and suffering.

 

heres where im at now. and i gotta change that oil filter adapter

 

Well... more than likely you're gonna have to pull the PS pump back off...

From below... Good luck

 

looks good. anyone needing odds and ends along with some performane parts pm me. i'm trying to clear alot of room out of my garage so i can pull my car in. couple of you guys might be interested in a brand new spec stage 1 i have and stage 3 comp cams (278) since i'm going with turbo cams.

 

Are those DIS-4's worth it?

 

it feels snappier down low. not really a hp gain just faster take off. they also have a wire for nos to change the tming when you activate the nos soliniods. i got my old one back from msd and i bought the new one with more features for the tubos....

 

Thanks, I've been thinking em over for awhile but I just cant justify, or come up with, that kinda money for em right now.