Omaha, got your fuel problem licked:
http://www.norcalsvtoa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5370

you'll also need a dual FPDM module from lethal performance. That will form you a 500hp fuel system that'll work just fine. Buy that and I'll send you my extra cobra pump so you'll have a spare.

 

nice...

 

the thing with the cobra pumps in a gt tank once you get to a quarter tank your almost out of gas ,if you keep your car full all the time then its not an issue,if anyone is interested i have a 2004 cobra tank pumps evap lines everything ready to bolt in,no fpdm though make me an offer

 

How much difference is there between a Cobra fuel tank and a GT fuel tank?

FPDM = ???


THANKS !!!

 

the cobra tank has a sump inside,where as the gt tank has a plastic cup that the gt pump locks into, you have to take the plastic out of the gt tank,and the cobra pumps will drop right in,but the down side is you cant run the car below a 1/4 tank or your run the chance of running out gas ,which is a real pain in the *** i ran out of gas a few times ,then i bought the cobra tank which allows the fuel gauge/and fuel level to read what the gauge says

 

Thanks for the answer. When I go to do this I may use the GT tank for start-up but now I'm convinced the best thing to do is plan on using the Cobra tank before I ever head out on the road.

What is the FPDM ... ??? (not familiar with that term here)

 

fpdm fuel pump driver module

 

go to lethalperformance.com, call them and ask them what they think you'll need.

You could possibly get away without a second FPDM or with just a modified one:
http://www.lethalperformance.com/99-...d-fpdm-p-14067


I'd at least get the modified one so you can run the pump you need.

 

How good is the stock oil pump? Will it hold up to 5-600 horsepower?

Not planning on making that N/A, but when I boost thats what im shooting for

 

stoc oil pump is good to 800hp i believe...

 

Thanks Gents for the help. I'll log this post for future use.

 

That does look great, but exactly what was said before..It would be a pain to run out of gas.. wouldn't get very far lol..i only get 200-225 miles per a tank already.

 

 

thats what i was getting in town with an untuned mis-matched port nonpI 5.4. on hwy i got 260-280 miles per tank.

 

Im seeing 230-280 depeding on how much highway I do. Im untuned at the moment also so thats what I blame it on LOL

 

Anyone have shorty headers they are looking to pawn off???

 

How is it doin untuned? Is it hard to drive ect...?

 

Nope not bad at all. I had a snipertuner when I had my 4.6l swap which for the most part I did a little logging and turned out fairly well. I have yet to hook up my narrowband(im lazy/busy with work and school) to see how its running. The 4.6l tune I had seems to be doin alright. I notice some small hesitations and what feels like a misfire when giving some throttle at low RPM's. I plan on getting tuned after graduation in May this way I have the Intake and hopefully heads/cams and exhaust.

All in all, the 4.6l tune has served me well for over a year now.

 

I used to get 180 city -200 highway.. I had flowmaster 40's series with tail exhaust tips..Switched to magnaflow side exhaust and got me to 200-230....

I kinda drive like a maniac often with the amount of lights on these highways.. gives me many chances to throttle it to speed limit

 

BBK shortys?

Will be for sale in the spring or early summer. Too late?

 

Hi, just wantd to bookmark my spot since I just realized after two weeks of reading the thread how old it was and that I would never catch up so this is to not only bookmark my spot at which I became currnet but to stop me when I catch up to here. Also to introduce myself and my project 5.4 build

I already have a block and forged crank that I picked up a few years ago with several other Mod motor cores. Having always been a proponent of Carrol Shelbys' quote concerning cubic inches and the lack of a viable susbstitute, I have long pondered the idea of stuffing a 5.4 into this Mustang at some point in time.

Well that point in time has come unexpectedly and inpromptly as the Windsor built 4.6 in the car has decided to fill a couple of the spark plug holes with coolant. I had to clean some deep pitting around the coolant passage sealing surface on one of the heads and fill it with a dab of silicone when I changed to the new style "hybrid" alum/plastic intake, so I am going to assume the head has porosity issues. I am swapping this high miler for a low mile Romeo 4.6 until I can get the 5.4 built.

I need a 6 bolt flywheel if any of you cats would let go of your old one cheap (like cost of shipping?), it can be heat cracked, i'll have it surfaced. I would gladly get it back to you in a few thousand miles after I get the 5.4 built and the Romeo comes out to be sold off.

My wife is not willing to wait for the 5.4 as she really feels she needs a spare car after the problems this Lemon gave her with its EFI problems (stalling, not starting, misfiring, etc.) so she bought an engine from craigslist out of a truck. I assumed the truck would be an 8 bolt but it was not, DAMN! Windsors in cars, Romeos in trucks, Snoop Dogg singing Country, what gives?

I have some parts to be rid of as well but am assuming I can't sell in the classifieds until a certian number of posts right? I have an alum 4.6 SB, new sealed power hyper pistons .030 over, I may even trade my crank for a cast and some other stuff as 4-500 ponies is the most I'll ever care to get for a daily driver.

I appreciate all the good information here and the trouble that you guys have gone through to further this hobby and push it into yet another new, exciting direction.

 

wait....Snoop sings country!?

 

welcome to the machine. You can mention your items in here (like ya' just did) but the classifieds we're pretty strict about. Post a bit so you're not sitting at a count of 1 and I can give you a pass on the classifieds before the 200 minimum. We just gotta get to know you a bit.

 

Any of your guys have any trouble with the heater hose under the intake on the HPS? I think its the cylinder 4 rib thats screwing me. The way I had it run, when I tightend it up, it pretty much crimped off the heater hose, so no heat. I decided it was time to fix it, since its been below freezing for like the past month..

http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k...g/01141237.jpg

 

use a rubber heater hose and a couple hose clamps (like you have it) but route it to the driver side of the intakes lower plenum and around back.

 

Hey guys, I just wanted to say thanks for keeping the thread alive and going strong. I've been planning on doing this swap since this thread was around 11 pages old. Thank you Redneck.

-Joe

 

Thanks, I'll see if I can pick up some molded hose with a 90, and work it out tomorrow.

 

morgan.. thats pretty much what i did, i cut the tube a little before it got to the ribs and just hose'd the rest of it.

okay, anyone good with trans specs help me out. im still trying to find a t56, i can find them out of the chevys all day long... how big of a difference are the splines for the shafts? anyway to get one of these trans and convert it for my use?

 

I am deffinatly doing the swap. Being currently deployed for a years time will fund my project. I want to get a 5.4 SB from DSS which will be bored .020 over and get the pistons dished out so I will be running 8.5:1 comp. in preperation of the higher boost level I am looking to run, along with thier trick flow heads. I want to use the Intake and intake adap. plates from Reichard Racing. I have come into a dilema. That is, should go the 3v or 2v route? I have been doing some reading and some say that the 3v heads flow better than any 2v aftermarket heads even after being P&Pd. Is this true?I have also though about maybe going with a 5.4 4v while still using the RR intake and plates, if I go that route I will get a Procharger F1a cog charger. My main dilema I am running into is what kind of power adder to run with. TTs, roots SC, CSC.. Just not 100% which way to go in that direction. Also with being at 8.5:1 before I deside on the power adder configuration, will the numbers be ALOT lower that a stock motor? In other words will is be a DOG until the power adders come into play? This forum is an awsome place for fellow 5.4 swappers to come for info.. Thanks for all the info already up, and thanks in advance for all the info.

 

First and foremost thank you for your service, and also welcome!

Just a few of my opinions:

A twin screw or roots type S/C is a good way to make a trq monster tire fryer, but traction will be verrrryyyy limited. Much better going with a Centrifugal or Turbo.

Between 2/3/4V: 4v is obviously the most attractive, however its the most expensive, and also a little PITA to swap to a 2V car..I would personally stay away from the 3V due to all the little nic-nacs that are different.

The lower compression ratio will kill you NA...Im builind around 9.25CR just to keep it peppy NA, but still boost safe, If your going to blow the poo out of it later, stay with the low CR. But yes it will suffer NA, however you will still make more HP/TRQ with a built/cam/head/intake 5.4 than the 4.6

And finally, if you go 2/4v, please for the love of God dont spend all this money and get adapter plates. For 2V get the HPS intake, and for 4V look at MMR for an intake...you'll thank yourself..the adapter plates are meant as band-aids and nothing more