depends on cam selection.

 

welp 515 dollars later cars running like a dream with a base tune another 300 or so on the 24th and shell be good to go with a dyno tune and il have some numbers to throw up :> damn this hobby is expensive next project is 5sp in my 96 F-250 Diesel and possibly a cummins swap ;>

 

Thats a darn good time slip man. Does the irs give you alot of wheelhop out of the hole? My buddies 99 cobra wheelhopped like there was no tomorrow.

 

what does

 

It used to, but I have added quite a few little pieces to help eliminate the wheel hop. I put in poly subframe bushings (link) , a beefier rear subframe brace (link) , and I tied the upper rear subframe mounts to the wheel house (link) to keep it from flexing. All of these were to help with response around a road course, but it is an added benefit at the drag strip as well.

I was cutting consistent 60' times of 1.97 (best) to 2.05 all night. I had the rear tires at 30 psi, cleaned them off a bit before each run (avoiding the water), launched at 2kRPM, slipped the clutch a bit in first, and then layed into it, shifting @ 5500-5800. I'm betting that a 12 sec slip is in there somewhere, especially on DR's, but I doubt I will ever find that out.

I am guessing my car weighs somewhere around 3400lbs without me in the car. I wish the track had the scales open to see what the actual weight + me was. So with me in the car, 3600 lbs total, a 104 trap speed estimates near 290 whp according to the online calculator I found.

 

those out there that could please shed some light on my nitrous issue, what's the highest compression i can build my motor and spray a 150shot while using 93 octane after dyno tuning and all. i'm thinking in the beginning just stopping at a 150 shot, and once the suspension and everything else is taken care of just keep going up from there to the limits of the internals.... this car will still be a daily driver so please keep that in mind. Is this feasible? So stay low like 9-9.5:1 or will i still be safe at 11-12:1? thanks

 

I know it's a late response, but "TTY" is short for torque to yield. If I'm not mistaken TTY bolts are one time use only.

 

liljo: final output. aftermarket cams can be worth a good lot with the right heads.

tsb: nitrous loves compression. You can run as much of either as you build the engine to support. On a 2v PI headed car I'd stop at 150... With much more the tires will break traction unless you pull it in with a progressive conroller. After 150 you're talking about a really big jolt. If you're not skilled you'll put it in the wall.

I'd look at a set of flattop pistons for 11.4'ish:1 compression and Yuck it up with the 150 shot. If you get greedy after that run a couple stages and do 150 and another 50 and be happy with it. You'll be wanting to make sure you have 8 thread heads. If you have the weaker heads you'll spit a plug at some inopportune moment.

 

im really lookin forward to starting this build, wish i had some money. im glad i still have some time because i am really stuck on what i can do with what i can afford... 2v vs 4v 5.4 swap, just swapping a stock 5.4 2v motor for now vs upgrading cams and heads, rebuilding my 4.6 when it blows (depending on how it goes out) and adding cams and heads. maybe supercharger on the 4.6. lots of stuff to think about. problem is i cant spend more than $2500...

 

What's with the $2500 limit? Is that what you have now? or is that a limit that someone else has imposed on you? (wife, parents, etc.)

From all the posts you've made it almost sounds like you have this money burning a hole in your pocket and you've got this overwhelming need to spend it all now?

You need to decide what your goal is for the car. Since you're on a budget switching to 4v or a supercharger is probably out of your price range for now. You mentioned this being your daily driver and just wanting more torque. Take your time and do it right & save money in the long run.

If you're wanting to go the 5.4 route save up a little and get the forged short block from MMR for $2600, a set of timing chains, and the HPS intake to start with. (others can tell you if there is anything else you'll need for the swap) Sooner or later you'll want to pick up a set of long tubes (they may even be done by then) You can get by with the stock heads from your 4.6 for a while until you can save up for a set of the new TFS heads and maybe a set of cams. From there you can look into forced induction keeping in mind that the drive train will need to be beefed up to handle it.

Keeping it 4.6 and under $2500 https://mustangboards.com/power-adde...ne-can-do.html Look into that.

I don't remember seeing a post describing what year/model car you're wanting to do all this to and what if any mods you have already done. If you haven't already done it changing out the rear gears will give you a noticeable performance improvement without too big of a price tag.

 

thanks for the advice. like i said, i have plenty of time to figure things out. i have a 99 gt vert with 191,000 miles so far and just want to get a plan together so that im not without a car for a long time since its my dd.

i have no money right now lol. im the type that wants to have everything figured out (minus some things u cant really account for that always pop up ) before i start spending money.

 

don't set spending limits until you know your goal. They're related.

I'd start with a built short block with 11cc dished pistons (or whatever gets you to around 9.5:1 compression), your 4.6 heads, some modest (stage 2ish) cams, and the HPS intake. After that then you can upgrade the heads to TFS and get 4v performance in an easier to integrate package and not have to change anything except the heads themselves. The bottom end being built and having modest but not low static compression leaves you with an infinite number of things you can do later on from boost, nitrous, hotter cams, etc... There is only 1 useful intake solution but it's been designed for great utility with NA or boosted engines and it fits under a stock hood.

The 4v solution is not much good IMHO due to cost and lack of intake selections (yeah there's a couple but they're short runner and kinda tall for most hoods).

 

that sounds like a good start. what do u mean by built (springs, valves, crank, bearings...). any idea how much that will run me?

 

Built shortblock = built to handle more power than stock = forged internals (crank, rods, bearings, pistons, etc). Valves and springs are a part of the heads and aren't included in the shortblock.

The shortblock from MMR that several of us have mentioned is the most afordable way to do this. $2600 is a good price.

 

ok i will think about that but im really trying to do a swap for as little as possible. that will be like $3500 after everything... will definitely keep it in mind. i have many options and i need to just figure out how much money i can get together and then decide what my best option is. i really appreciate all of the ideas and information.

 

As long as boost(power adder) is NOT applied, a completly stock engine will be fine. The stock powder metal rods are the weak links in these engines, so take this in consideration with your build plan.
Like I said as long as you don't use a power adder, a stock engine will be fine.

A "running" stock long block PI head 5.4l can be picked up for $100-$1500, just need to do some looking.

Get the HPS 5.4l intake $700

This route will keep you in budget! No more than $2300! minus the nickel and dime stuff!

 

Why not get a NPI 5.4 long block, swap your PI heads from your 99 GT, so you'll gain that Compression bump, (and swap whatever other bolt on you may have) and use the HPS intake. Basicly taking a stock motor doing a PI swap on it. and you'll stay way under your 2500 dollar budget. and you'll still have gobs more tourqe and a fun car.

 

I agree!

That would be under budget. Maybe $1800 with HPS

 

this is what i was looking for. which ones are npi? that will make them cheaper as well which is good.

sounds good to me!!! that will get me about the same hp but the 50ft lb extra torque im lookin for .

 

pre 2000 trucks had non-pi motors. Those are good plans.

 

so the 97-99 is what i should be looking for to get the cheapest usable complete engine

 

correct. then like mentioned earlier, just swap your heads and bolt-ons and snag an hps intake.

 

thats what im gonna start out with. i dont want to do a bunch of upgrades if i may never need them.

 

That is exactly the route I went. I found a 1997 engine from a E350. I then took it home, disassembled it, and cleaned it up. I had the crank polished and honed out the cylinders. I then added a new set of bearings & rings. Using the FRPP head changing kit (head gasket + bolts) I bolted up my PI heads with the Comp Cams. I recently added the HPS intake. Total invested: $400 for the engine, $100 head kit, $200 rings & bearigns, $700 intake, -$500 selling my 4.6 = ~$900 total invested. From there you have to add in about $400-500 for a proper tune. It is real easy to stay under $2k and have a fun car to drive.

 

so u polished the crank and honed the cylinders urself? u have links for the other things u added such as bearings and the frpp kit?

 

honing you can do yourself polishing he probaly took it to machine shop its cheap like 30 bucks

 

A normal stock Modular engine will only need honing to break the glaze for the new rings. This can be a DIY project as well as cleaning the block and checking it over.

We will be here when you start the re-build.

 

so will i need to widen or lengthen my h-pipe? do i need new motor mounts?

 

both, and no.

 

I have a BBK x-pipe for a 4.6 Mustang. I didn't have to modify it at all. I bolted up the two-bolt flange side loosely and flexed the other side over and got the ball and socket side to engage. No problem.