well guys the 5.4 3v is laying in the shed floor. i may forge it and use it in a race car, but my 5.4 days are over.

instead i have a forged, ported B-headed turbo 4v in the car i built. gas mileage and power. gas costs at 4.00 just killed me. 42 dollars a day. 160miles at 15mpg in power tune was just too much. but it had 8.0 in the 1/8th in it i think just before i pulled it.

i ran 8.5 with no tune. i added:
sniper tune, all tubular suspension, removed all power boost brakes and steering, all extra weight items, 90mm LMAF and bigger filter, 4" CAI, UDP's.

so i think 8.0 was in it for sure.

 

figoured i was wrong i had odds 1 side evens the other in my head....maybe thats mopar idk

 

Update:
Motor is in, and transmission is bolted up. Will finish putting the rest of the stuff up today (hopefully) Then get the exhaust welded up.

 

Just look at them. The MM piece is nice and beefy while the QA1 isn't. Basically, maximum strength was the design criteria for MM and maximum weight loss was for QA1. Unless your car is strip only, go w/ MM.

 

might be of interest to somebody on here:
http://bham.craigslist.org/pts/1141772189.html

 

Picking my complete 5.4 2v in 2 weeks.. Puting half on it now and picking it up in 2 weeks.!!!!!!!

 

Hey Nater you are the one I want to keep up with and see how your car is going....

 

I have 00 gt P.I. heads which are winsor... Most of the truck 5.4 2vs are also or am I wrong?

 

What are your feelings on the stuff from UPR? They weren't mentioned so I'm guessing there is a reason.

 

UPR seems like they copy others, and again, look at it. It doesn't look as beefy as the MM piece.

 

was fun while it lasted, but just not worth it. lol!! Gonna part out the 02, and build it again as a pushrod. so here we go.
5.4 2v from 2001 F150. Everything less than 40 miles since install
New head gaskets and bolts
New oil pump and pickup
New water pump
Heads to pan – Edge mustang pan – $650.00

Prof. Products adaptor plates - $200.00
24 Lb. FMS Injectors - $50.00
C&L plenum – 95.00
Stock plenum – 15.00
75mm Accufab TB – 150.00
Stock throttle body – 15.00
90mm Lightning MAF - 90.00
Fadenza aluminum flywheel - 110.00
Stock 8 bolt flywheel – 40.00
Centerforce dfx clutch -26 spline less than 10k miles – 125.00
Performance clutch 110 miles with warranty – 150.00
Short shifter – 80.00
Custom made O/R pipes 115.00
SCT XCAL3 locked with tune for 5.4 at the moment - $290.00 as is or $320.00 unlocked
complete 2002 AC system - $225.00
Stock 2002 H pipe – 50.00
Stock 2002 4.6 headers 35.00
Stock tremec3650 less than 100k miles runs good - $500.00 with stock shifter
Solid motor mounts 4.6/5.4 – 40.00
PI intake manifold 95.00
k member and what not will become available once I get everything out.
I am sure there is a lot more I am not thinking of. I need several items so offer trades if you want. I am going to pushrod swap this car. So I will need 94-95 v8 parts. K member, trans, motor, crossmember, shaft, etc.
Lots of misc parts also, just ask.
srwhouston@yahoo.com

 

Got pretty much everything bolted up beside coil packs and stuff....
Note to self....Double check all the work you do before dumping one big a§§ motor in the car....Spent most of the afternoon fighting with the motor, because I second guessed myself and realized that I had the timing on the passenger side off my a massive amount.. (Used the nub instead of the dot for timing)

Anyone got a picture of how the wires are run along the bottom of the motor, and where the grounding strap goes? Been drawing a blank today on how the stuff was supposed to go.

 

The strap on the drivers side goes on one of the motor mount bolts, the one with a stud. The rest of the wiring goes back fairly easy. I think that harness is the o2's and oil pressure sender, you might have to enlarge the holes on the two little brackets that go on the front cover bolts.

 

you are exactly right. well thats what i had to do too atleast.

 

Living less than a mile from work FTW

 

Try working from home..

 

doesnt have an actual job. haha. full time college and side work FTW

 

eh.. My brother works from home. Turned him into a lazy ***, and he goes for days at a time without leaving the house. Not for me.

 

Hey guys i get my block and crank back this week...now i have a 97 NPI windsor so what year and or models had windsor heads of 4.6/5.4 vehicles?? or is it a toss up? just wondering cause im gona buy a set of PIs ;> and run it stock for a while till more money comes in to build it forged.


so far got

PI Intake and Adapter plates -$280
24lb injects and 80mm MAF-100
Stock 8 bolt flywheel - 100
both Head replacement kit - 101
Head Bolts both sides - 45
Comp Beehive springs - 160

need once i find out if my bearing sizes change - Main/Rod bears/all new timing items/heads/spark plugs ;>/rings/misc other parts

 

I would not specifically look for windsor heads....Any PI heads will work.

 

If you're planning on rebuilding it later on, I wouldnt put those valve springs right now. No real point for stock cams but if you're gonna change cams soon, use em.

 

Still having problems finding how the cables are run in the front....Anyone got any pics for reference?

 

http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture004.jpg

Thats about the best I've got.

The best thing I know to tell you is find the two tabs that bolt to the front cover, and lay the rest of the wires on each side of the motor, should be like a O2 sensor on each side, cant really remember what all else is on that harness.

 

Thanks! Will take a look tonight when I get home.

 

well i just put a cheap bid on the springs because anywhere else they were 200+ didnt realy think ied get em but i did ;>


for right now the engines just getting a full re-ring with bearings dif heads and such...and reason i wanted to stay windsor was so that i didnt have to get dif timing cover bolts for ease of installation. but if its easier to find romeo ill go romeo

 

hey guys...

sorry bout laggin on replies. I've been out of town for a few days and got hurt so I've not been checking the site.

If there are any lingering questions, please LMK.

 

Nate, i just undid that harness on my car. if im thinkin of the same one you are its the one that has your battery cables and o2 sensors in it right? so it has to go to the starter on one side and then run the other part around the other side of the oil pan back to the sensors on your hpipe. fyi its hard to get your fingers in the space to get the hotwire on the starter. thats why im just leavin it connected and pullin it with the engine.

 

Ok...where does the grounding strap go?

 

to one of the motor mount bolts i think

 

my neg battery cable is just bolted to the block and then the ground strap runs from that to my frame. might be different on yours but thats how mine is. you can bolt it anywhere you want though. it just needs metal to ground to.