hey r3d would you mind roughly drawing out how you would set up a return style fuel system like mine? the intake will be arriving tomorrow and the fpr has already arrived and i hope its the right one.

 

Here is a peak at mine....This was taken on Monday. Since then the intake, and front accesories have been mounted.


Me getting the motor mounts done...

Here is a peak at mine....This was taken on Monday. Since then the intake, and front accesories have been mounted.


Me....

 

awesome.....

 

Had a issue last night with the H-Pipe. When the girlfriend's uncle welded it, he put the flange on wrong....it is exact opposite of what it should be....Well, so much for being done by Thursday...Between work and lack of sleep, I am aiming for Saturday now. Still have to finish putting my PBR brakes on....

 

Damn it mater I want to know how yours pulls with the 4.30's !!!!!!

Get er done!!!

 

Trust me bro....so do I!!!!! Trying my best to get er done...she just doesn't want to play nicely.

 

Holy Rusted Metal!

I'm cheering for you......... NATER!

 

Thanks....I hope that I will be able to start her no by Saturday at the latest...

 

good luck man. did you get your ground strap figured out?

btw it would be so nice to be able to get under the car like that haha. im tired of workin on my back under the car already.

 

looks good nater. keep up with the progress. mine just took a giant flying leap backwards. had an accident today on my way home from class. needs a new front end. never knew it but she kicked the belt too (guages werent working) so she overheated and stalled out.

 

Thanks for the encouragement...This has got to be one of the biggest projects that I have done on this car. The transmission swap I think was easier than this...Taking a break today from it as for the last 3 nights I have been up till 1-2 in the morning working on it by myself...

 

Guys with return style fuel systems and knowledge to say, please look at my sketch below. Any issues with that?

 

awesome. easy to understand. thanks r3d. quick question, why does the fpr go on the return side?

 

to stop the fuel after the injectors in order to make an even psi on both rails. once the fuel reache 45psi it will bleed of fuel back to the tank keeping the pressure between the pump and fpr at the se psi you want.

 

I know the feeling, I'm on my 3rd bumper cover, ****** deer, but its a good excuse to pick up a new one you like and maybe a better hood too.

 

hey guys, i have been following this thread for some time now and r3dn3ck has actually talked about this on another forum im on (sn95forums) and i have to commend everyone for their awesome work. my name is gabe, im in louisiana, and i currently have a 96 gt i performed the pi swap on that im currently getting ready to swap a navigator motor into. im sure ill have a few questions but already i feel like im at home

 

That's good!

The sn95 forum is a good forum, but I'm sure you'll find the info you need here.

Keep us posted with you progress!

 

sent you a Pm r3dn3ck!!!

 

Redneck...When putting on the stock fuel rail today, I was thinking about your drawing....Wouldn't it be easier to keep it stock setup with the aftermarket rails? What I mean is that the feed line goes to one rail, and is connected both front and back with tubing....Then return line is on the opposite rail the feed line goes to...

 

Here is a KB for you 5.4L swap guys
https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...tml#post405471

 

with one long rail like that you end up with a difference in pressure between the first and last injectors. If you have them go in and come out at equal points in the stream for both sides then you effectively cut that problem in half. It's not just for proper pressure on the last 2 squirters, it's also about even pressure across all of them. Either is fine really but mine is probably better.

 

well, i'd like to say aeromotive is the bizzom.......

i sent my a1000 for them to clean and test it. they said it was fine but not up to par to thier liking, so for under 100 bones i will get it back in a few days running 30% better then a new a1000. they said they can give it more power with the new rollers and pumps inside..... i told them what my projec was and the new pump will easiliy handle it......

 

Are you guys useing heads P.I heads off the mustang or the heads that came on the 5.4???


Well that was prob a dumb ? since they are the same huh

 

Alright everyone. Much thanks to all too many people on here, through the threads (sorry only read about 20 pages lol) I am convinced the 5.4 2v is for me.

I currently own a 98 GT Auto with 99700 miles, and I just want something fresher and impressive. Not the impressive some might think.

I currently have current mods I should be able to switch over looking at what I have been reading:

BBK shorty equal headers
BBK X-Chamber
Flow Master 40's
CaI
Diablo Tuner
3:73 gears
75MM TB & Plenum
March Pulleys

Thats about all I can think of.

I am currently having a hard time finding a reputable mechanic shop to do my install and for how much. There used to be a HP Motorsports here and is now gone, then also there was a guy from Alternative automotive that was anoter person I would trust to do my work for me.. But now theres no one that comes to mind

So anyways, from what I have read ( correct me if I am wrong or missing somehting)
I need the HPS spacers, a PI intake .. . nip out the hood a little and thats really about it huh.

Now because I am not in a huge hurry but want to be able to ride by auguest with new engine. I think I have my hands on a 2000 Triton 5.4, I am pretty sure I want to really only change the cams at that point and add my stuff onto it with probably a typhoon intake ( i spent money on plenum and TB just recently). And probably won't open up the engine again for about 2 more summers to forge it if i am still intersted in sinking in the money.
Anyways enuff rambling .. just any quick things that might or would help would be helpful. I have not bought anything but the engine.

thanks guys

 

Sounds like a decent enough plan, but if you plan to drop the money on a new intake manifold anyway, why not get the correct one? HPS makes one specifically for this swap and there is no need for the adapter plates. The plates are just a band-aid to the solution anyway. Not to mention the engine runs 1000x better with the HPS intake than it ever did on plates and the PI intake.

 

If I'm not mistaken, you won't really be able to use those BBK headers. The 2000 is a good year, make sure it has the two bolt holes on the lower drivers side of the timing cover (for the powersteering pump) You'll need a 8-bolt flexplate if you dont have one already.

And yeah, get the HPS intake. The plates are a pain in the ***.

 

Headers that you have won't work. Trade them to someone for a set of FRPP shorty headers or find some stock logs. All your other stuff will transfer over.

Don't bother with the plates. Get the HPS intake. It'll solve your hood clearance issues and
run a lot better and make 20hp or so more with a tune than either a PI or a shitty Typhoon (Typhoon COST saleen s330 10hp and 26lbs of tq, not a good intake for this swap) and it won't weep coolant everywhere.

Find a shop that will do a basic engine swap. Supply them with the engine with the intake and exhaust already mounted. They won't bitch too much about the exhaust since it's easy. Figure on a 8-10 shop-hour bill. Possibly as high as 14hrs. Don't worry about cams unless you're putting ported heads on it.

With those 3.73's you're going to have one seriously grunty ride. You might wanna toss a couple sandbags in the back for better traction.

2000 5.4 2v is the perfect engine. You can do this yourself with basic hand tools and a cherry picker. Don't discount that.

EDIT: Exactly where are you anyway? We can probably help you find someone to install your engine without breaking the bank.

 

Welcome Omaha!

Glad to see your intrest in the swap, but sad to hear you will not do the swap yourself. This community has debugged the swap and it's a straight forward thing. Don't sell yourself short, you can do this!

Smart how you want to get all that is needed before the swap. And very smart for asking questions!

As the others have stated, the BBK headers will be a pain if you use them. Just not 5.4l swap friendly, however the stock logs and the FRPP shorties are. Down fall would be the BBK xchamber you already have. It would not be easy to modify for the added width of the 5.4l. The stock h-pipe, all aftermarket h-pipes, and some x-pipes are easy to modify.
Sure their are some setbacks, but worth it!

 

Hey Omaha,
Nice to know someone else in the Omaha area is doint the swap! (I'm in Lincoln). Didn't know HP motorsports left!

Thanks in advance to everyone who has contribuited to this thread. I've read through the first 26 pages, but wanted to ask you a couple quick questions. I have a 99 GT with 140k on it. I figured the engine will last me for awhile yet, but I think it's time to swap it out for a torque monster. Here are my questions:

1. I'll most likely do a 2V, but if I stumbled across a 4V for a simliar price, would it be worth the hassle of installing it?

2. Can you use the new HPS manifold to use a roots or twin screw S/C on the 5.4? If not, what are the other alternatives?

I'd really appreciate any answers. I've been thinking about this swap for about 6 months and I'm pretty dedicated to doing it this summer, granted I can find a decent priced 5.4!

Thanks again guys!

 

I don't know much about the Mustangs to Answer the 2v vs 4v swap, After all I'm doing this swap into a Crown Vic, But I can answer the intake question.

No you will not be able to use the HPS intake with those kind of superchargers seeing how a Roots or twin screw S/C replaces the intake,. However, with that said, you can use a Vortec or a Paxton Centerfugal Supercharger, or even a tubro setup if you so choose.

I know you have been thinking about the swap, I say DOOO IT!