That would be sweet even for 2v's. I don't want to guess what it will cost though. BTW, what are those ports at the top for?

 

Another eBay find.. Brand new 5.4 for $1,800 >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-00...Q5fAccessories

 

is it just me, or does it look as if it will be able to run dual injectors per cylinder?

 

great base motor but it's NPI. Needs heads.

 

Hey Steven_S86... Did you dyno your car after the build? Just wondering what that 5.6 is putting out. Other than the .030 bore, what other mods do you have? Your pic shows that you used the intake spacers, but did you end up switching to the HPS intake when it came out?

 

Right now, im tuned through my SniperTuner. So self tuned. At the end of the month/beginning of January I will be heading for th much needed DynoTune. I plan on skipping the HPS intake altogether and piecing a DOHC swap together within the next year.

As of right now mods are:
POS PP Intke Adapters
JLT CAI
PP 75mm/TB plenum
FRPP Shorties
Custom H-pipe with SpinTech side exhaust
T-3650
RAM clutch
Roush Short Shifter
'01 Cobra IRS with Cobra R springs
Bilstein Strut Coilovers


Not really alot done to it right now as you can see, but seeing as it went from base stock, auto 3.8l to almost full bolt-on 4.6l to bolt-on 5.6l, I would say it has come a long ways and still a little ways to go.

Expect Dyno numbers within the next 30days !!!

 

has you taken her to the track yet?

 

Ive autoX prolly 3 times on the motor. Never getting above 1/2 throttle. I have yet to take it to the strip on this current setup. Im too full throttle without a DynoTune. Its been 4500miles now too lol. Talk about killing me to get on it.

When it was a 4.6l, the best I cut was a 13.4 with DR's on the IRS

 

Do you guys think an aluminum driveshaft would be worth a tenth or so at the track? I know that getting rid of rotational weight is a good thing just wonder what kind of results to expect and if the $200+ price would be worth it.

 

Rotational mass is only a part of it. Aluminum shafts also increase the rotational inertia. Though it may be less than steel, it's not by much and not enough to justify the costs. Plus, unlike steel, Aluminum has a set life span, so it's not if it'll break, but when.

 

Ford and Chevy have used aluminum driveshafts in cars/trucks for years and they seem to work great and last a long time.

 

Indeed. The P71 I should be picking up soon comes stock with an aluminum driveshaft.

 

Cool, think I'll look for a deal on a used one. I always have trouble spending money on parts that don't exactly make power but I do need to start looking at alternatives since my car is a convertible which weighs as much as a 747.

 

Wow i have missed so much! Between work, school, and having family i havent been on here in weeks. So did anyone ever do a 5.4 3v setup yet? im still interested in that.

 

With so many people interested in the 5.4s, I think we need to create it's own section. 3.8 and 4.6 have their own, it'd just make sense.

 

goo pran. i'll put it to the mods

 

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ighlight=price

 

yeah...

I did a bunch of dyno sims with the flow data from those heads and it doesn't seem that they're worth it until you go to a 3.7" bore. Before that I was seeing 20hp differences at just the very top end. I'm debating doing my 3v swap or just buying a set of ported 2v R heads when they come out and having them ported till they flow like ported 3v heads.

 

Alright r3d.. How about this setup:
-5.4 bored out to 5.6
-11:1 comp ratio
-Hitech Stg II cams
-HPS intake
-And you can also add on LT's in a separate figure, though I'm not sure the Kooks units will fit after the swap.
If you could give me a power figure for the aforementioned mods, I'd be grateful

 

5.6L Installed - Dont mind the Duct Tape on the passanger valve cover. It was temporary until I could get a new one. It has since been replaced.


The car where the beast lies within. Recently taken after an AutoX at Texas A&M. The stock v6 hood will soon be replaced by a 2000 Cobra R hood within the next month.

Oh and sorry for all the pics lately .... Ive been without the car for 2 weeks now. She needs some work and I havent had them time to work on her because of finals

 

I have yet to see a Ford car/truck w/ an Al shaft. Regardless though, that doesn't mean Aluminum is for life. Aluminum will fail, just how quick depends on the amount of stress it's placed under. Steel on the other hand can theoretically last forever, since it has no set life span.

 

i got an aluminum driveshaft for my project but i kept the steel one as a backup if i do break the al one....

 

Was chatting with a friend of a friend that races a juiced Mach 1 and came across something that might interest everyone. He runs an Odyssey battery that weighs only 16 lbs. and claims he never has any starting issues. It seems like a worthwhile mod especially for us 5.4 guys that gained a little front end weight. I wouldn't use it for a winter car but I'm guessing the factory battery weighs more than twice that. I found it on the summit racing website, it's the Odyssey PC680MJT.

 

They're around, my dad's f150 has one and its a '99
Steel is fine but it can still rust..

 

I thought 03/04 Cobra's had an AL shaft?

All the Interceptor CV's I have seen had them. I've never experienced or witnessed a failure and those cars are beat.

 

one major advantage of going to al driveshaft:

hurts a hell lot less when it falls on your head under the car...

 

All metals will eventually turn back into the same material from which they were made.

 

LOL. Very true.

 

what heads?

EDIT: with well ported heads the sim is showing 320-340rwhp/330-350rwtq at the tires with longtubes. With shorties it shows closer to 280-300hp/330-360tq at the tires. There's a lot of overall flow issues that just can't be worked out at the valve size and arrangement we have in 2v motors. Those numbers seem to pop up a lot both in the sim and in reality. It's likely that this is demonstrating that the high cubic inch count is just maxing the **** out of the heads and bore size.

 

Stock head setup for now . The new Trick Flow heads would be nice, but $1995 is more than I can afford. I should be picking up more hours soon though, so they may be a possibility. Could you redo the figures for stock heads? I know they will be crappy, but anything is better than what a stock P71 puts out (250/287 at the crank .) Thanks r3d.