View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#511
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The MT's look sweet. I know they make good slicks and all, but I've never seen a review or ratings on their drag radials, so I hope you've got a winner. You just going to cram those in some 17X9s? Wow, those are going to pull hard. You're gonna have fun
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#512
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Originally Posted by 97_Cobra_Droptop
The MT's look sweet. I know they make good slicks and all, but I've never seen a review or ratings on their drag radials, so I hope you've got a winner. You just going to cram those in some 17X9s? Wow, those are going to pull hard. You're gonna have fun ![Beerchug](https://mustangboards.com/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Beerchug](https://mustangboards.com/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#513
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Originally Posted by Twin Turbo 330
I've heard a lot of great things about the MT Drag Radials. Pretty much just slicks that have grooves in them to be approved for the street. I know i'm going to get some pretty soon.
#514
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
I would stay off the bottle in >75hp shots entirely. A 50hp shot will make 75tq and an easy 50hp so you'll probably want to wait till 3rd gear to hit it or you'll break traction bad. The tires will help a bunch on a prepared track in either case. Just watch the nitrous cuz those rods aren't the strongest. You can still get same GP price. Are you selling the C&L plenum?
I thought about a 75 shot but i think i'll wait and see how the power will be after the dyno tune.
#515
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Originally Posted by Saleen S330
I did but already sold it for 100 bucks.
I thought about a 75 shot but i think i'll wait and see how the power will be after the dyno tune.
I thought about a 75 shot but i think i'll wait and see how the power will be after the dyno tune.
#517
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may also want to get a driveshaft safety hoop if you don't already have one. I don't know if those qualify as slicks as far as NHRA rules go but for any car with slicks (IIRC) a DS hoop is required. Besides... you don't want to pole vault the car if you bust a u-joint with all that mad tq.
I can't believe that I'm actually gitty with anticipation of your dyno results. cmon' BIG numbers. The blower idea is a great one. 425-450rwhp on 8lbs but the same internals concerns exist from my point of view.
I can't believe that I'm actually gitty with anticipation of your dyno results. cmon' BIG numbers. The blower idea is a great one. 425-450rwhp on 8lbs but the same internals concerns exist from my point of view.
#518
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I was thinking if i went to 4v heads why would i need a new computer if i'm going to have the car tuned for it to run correctly what would be the difference? It's just more valves and 2 more cams right but the basic operation of the motor is the same so why couldn't you tune the computer to work? I'm just curious because it's going to be awhile before i finish my motor and i was thinking about going that extra step.
#519
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the only issue is that a 4V computer will be already set up to handle the basic operation of a 4v motor, setting a 2v computer on it will mean it has an invalid base tune that may or may not even fire.
#520
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
the only issue is that a 4V computer will be already set up to handle the basic operation of a 4v motor, setting a 2v computer on it will mean it has an invalid base tune that may or may not even fire.
#521
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Originally Posted by Twin Turbo 330
I was thinking if i went to 4v heads why would i need a new computer if i'm going to have the car tuned for it to run correctly what would be the difference? It's just more valves and 2 more cams right but the basic operation of the motor is the same so why couldn't you tune the computer to work? I'm just curious because it's going to be awhile before i finish my motor and i was thinking about going that extra step.
you cant do a 4V swap w/o the computer also, that controles when to fire the inj and everything
#522
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Originally Posted by chip6990
you cant do a 4V swap w/o the computer also, that controles when to fire the inj and everything
#523
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Also the computer controls the IRMC or IMRC plates doesn't it? I would swap in the Cobra computer then dynotune it for perfection. You can use the GT wiring on the Cobras or atleast that's what i've heard, and it won't be cheap getting a Cobra wiring harness, i know some one that built up a cobra and wanted the wiring harnes 97 cobra, and he payed 350 for it.
#524
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
may also want to get a driveshaft safety hoop if you don't already have one. I don't know if those qualify as slicks as far as NHRA rules go but for any car with slicks (IIRC) a DS hoop is required. Besides... you don't want to pole vault the car if you bust a u-joint with all that mad tq.
I can't believe that I'm actually gitty with anticipation of your dyno results. cmon' BIG numbers. The blower idea is a great one. 425-450rwhp on 8lbs but the same internals concerns exist from my point of view.
I can't believe that I'm actually gitty with anticipation of your dyno results. cmon' BIG numbers. The blower idea is a great one. 425-450rwhp on 8lbs but the same internals concerns exist from my point of view.
#526
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Originally Posted by chip6990
you will love the MT D/R!!!!!!! they HOOK... i like the et streets better personally
i would hold off on the N2O until you get some good internals
i would hold off on the N2O until you get some good internals
Yeah, after the cams and everthing, i'm going to leave the N2O alone, maybe later down the road after i rebuid it stronger.
#527
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Originally Posted by Saleen S330
I was looking at the Nitto DR's and then saw the MT's and i knew those were the ones, the look like they would stick.
Yeah, after the cams and everthing, i'm going to leave the N2O alone, maybe later down the road after i rebuid it stronger.
Yeah, after the cams and everthing, i'm going to leave the N2O alone, maybe later down the road after i rebuid it stronger.
wise choice on the N2O
#530
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There's always your local Ford parts counter as well. Not my first choice by any means but it's at least pretty reliable. FRPP may be another source. We know they made extras as people have been buying 2000 model year engine and tranny packages that come with them. In either case I'd start at your local salvage yards, car-part.com and call MPS if you haven't cuz they don't always list everything on their site plus inventory changes daily over there.
#531
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I know it's going to be more work but i'm seriously considering going to 4v just because i think you should be able to get more than 325 rwhp out of the 5.4 so if that means going 4v then i guess that's what i'm going to do. I was looking at the flow numbers between the 2v and 4v and man what a huge difference. Now i know why ford went to 3 valves for the GT cause the 2v is crap compared to the 4v. Don't get me wrong i still love my 2v GT but i want to get as much power as possible N/A before sticking a power adder on it.
#532
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they're intended for different use cases... 2V is for big tq and good but not big hp, 3v is a good balance between the two, 4v is for HP over tq. Tq is for go, hp is for show. Still, a 4v will be a helluva lot of fun.
#533
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
they're intended for different use cases... 2V is for big tq and good but not big hp, 3v is a good balance between the two, 4v is for HP over tq. Tq is for go, hp is for show. Still, a 4v will be a helluva lot of fun.
#534
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I think i've decided to stick with the 2v to represent. I'm not really sure of all the parts i will need for the swap and that's extra money i could use somewhere else on the car. So Hopefully we see some good numbers from SaleenS330 and then i'll be happy.
#536
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Originally Posted by chip6990
wise decision...
#537
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with a built motor properly assembled you can bump the output considerably from a stock motor or even one modded like Saleens... with a good set of cams and a little compression bump from the stock 9.4-9.6 to something like 10:1 or 10.5:1 you'll see a decent hp gain and probably similar tq gain. I wouldn't go much higher than 11:1 if you want to run pump gas and you'll probably have to back some timing out at 11 which will cost you power so 10.5 is about the best for a street car.
W00t on going 2V, I'm sure you'll grin each time you step on the gas anyway.
I'm waiting for CCM to make up his mind on pistons or for 1 more guy to commit. After that we'll be ready for pistons. Twin Turbo, if you're goiing with boost later you can get an 11cc dish which will be stockish compression and still blower/turbo friendly without sacrificing power. Just an FYI...
W00t on going 2V, I'm sure you'll grin each time you step on the gas anyway.
I'm waiting for CCM to make up his mind on pistons or for 1 more guy to commit. After that we'll be ready for pistons. Twin Turbo, if you're goiing with boost later you can get an 11cc dish which will be stockish compression and still blower/turbo friendly without sacrificing power. Just an FYI...
#538
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
I'm waiting for CCM to make up his mind on pistons or for 1 more guy to commit. After that we'll be ready for pistons. Twin Turbo, if you're goiing with boost later you can get an 11cc dish which will be stockish compression and still blower/turbo friendly without sacrificing power. Just an FYI...
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#540
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
sounds good. You'll still be able to run boost, just not much of it before you have to start pulling timing and adding fuel or going to a higher octane.