The MT's look sweet. I know they make good slicks and all, but I've never seen a review or ratings on their drag radials, so I hope you've got a winner. You just going to cram those in some 17X9s? Wow, those are going to pull hard. You're gonna have fun

 

I've heard a lot of great things about the MT Drag Radials. Pretty much just slicks that have grooves in them to be approved for the street. I know i'm going to get some pretty soon.

 

Yeah i was told i should get the 31 components in first cause they are pretty much slicks. sweet.

 

I did but already sold it for 100 bucks.
I thought about a 75 shot but i think i'll wait and see how the power will be after the dyno tune.

 

I think you should just save for a Supercharger even with a base kit you should see mid 400 to the wheels i would think.

 

you will love the MT D/R!!!!!!! they HOOK... i like the et streets better personally

i would hold off on the N2O until you get some good internals

 

may also want to get a driveshaft safety hoop if you don't already have one. I don't know if those qualify as slicks as far as NHRA rules go but for any car with slicks (IIRC) a DS hoop is required. Besides... you don't want to pole vault the car if you bust a u-joint with all that mad tq.

I can't believe that I'm actually gitty with anticipation of your dyno results. cmon' BIG numbers. The blower idea is a great one. 425-450rwhp on 8lbs but the same internals concerns exist from my point of view.

 

I was thinking if i went to 4v heads why would i need a new computer if i'm going to have the car tuned for it to run correctly what would be the difference? It's just more valves and 2 more cams right but the basic operation of the motor is the same so why couldn't you tune the computer to work? I'm just curious because it's going to be awhile before i finish my motor and i was thinking about going that extra step.

 

the only issue is that a 4V computer will be already set up to handle the basic operation of a 4v motor, setting a 2v computer on it will mean it has an invalid base tune that may or may not even fire.

 

Could i just swap computers if i get all the other wires to hook up? Or again it would probably be easier to get a 4v engine harness huh?

 

you cant do a 4V swap w/o the computer also, that controles when to fire the inj and everything

 

That makes since. i'm just trying to get more of an understanding and exactly what it would take. I eventually want to have a turbo motor but that will be awhile and i would like to get as much as possible N/A and i know that i could get more with a 4V.

 

Also the computer controls the IRMC or IMRC plates doesn't it? I would swap in the Cobra computer then dynotune it for perfection. You can use the GT wiring on the Cobras or atleast that's what i've heard, and it won't be cheap getting a Cobra wiring harness, i know some one that built up a cobra and wanted the wiring harnes 97 cobra, and he payed 350 for it.

 

I know, the week isn't going by fast enough. so far i've been told by some mechanics i know and pro dyno, that 450 rwh on a stock 5.4 and no more until it's built for power.

 

you have to have the 4v harness which aint cheap, a definate not at home in the driveway job

 

I was looking at the Nitto DR's and then saw the MT's and i knew those were the ones, the look like they would stick.
Yeah, after the cams and everthing, i'm going to leave the N2O alone, maybe later down the road after i rebuid it stronger.

 

wise choice on the N2O

 

Does anyone no where i could get an engine harness for a 4v used or new? I looked at Mustang Parts Specialties and they have a computer but no engine harness.

 

Check on car-part.com .... I had found some computers for Cobras for less than $150 and you can always call those salvage yards and ask about the wiring harness.

 

There's always your local Ford parts counter as well. Not my first choice by any means but it's at least pretty reliable. FRPP may be another source. We know they made extras as people have been buying 2000 model year engine and tranny packages that come with them. In either case I'd start at your local salvage yards, car-part.com and call MPS if you haven't cuz they don't always list everything on their site plus inventory changes daily over there.

 

I know it's going to be more work but i'm seriously considering going to 4v just because i think you should be able to get more than 325 rwhp out of the 5.4 so if that means going 4v then i guess that's what i'm going to do. I was looking at the flow numbers between the 2v and 4v and man what a huge difference. Now i know why ford went to 3 valves for the GT cause the 2v is crap compared to the 4v. Don't get me wrong i still love my 2v GT but i want to get as much power as possible N/A before sticking a power adder on it.

 

they're intended for different use cases... 2V is for big tq and good but not big hp, 3v is a good balance between the two, 4v is for HP over tq. Tq is for go, hp is for show. Still, a 4v will be a helluva lot of fun.

 

Yeah i've driven a 4 valve and they are a lot of fun. I'm not sure yet i will be able to make more of a decision after i see what SaleenS330 gets on the Dyno. I will probaly end up being lazy and go 2v. I just like to explore my options.

 

I think i've decided to stick with the 2v to represent. I'm not really sure of all the parts i will need for the swap and that's extra money i could use somewhere else on the car. So Hopefully we see some good numbers from SaleenS330 and then i'll be happy.

 

wise decision...

 

Yeah the more i looked into it the more i didn't want to do it. Maybe one day when i buy my cobra i'll do the 5.4 swap again and then i'll have my 4v 5.4l

 

with a built motor properly assembled you can bump the output considerably from a stock motor or even one modded like Saleens... with a good set of cams and a little compression bump from the stock 9.4-9.6 to something like 10:1 or 10.5:1 you'll see a decent hp gain and probably similar tq gain. I wouldn't go much higher than 11:1 if you want to run pump gas and you'll probably have to back some timing out at 11 which will cost you power so 10.5 is about the best for a street car.

W00t on going 2V, I'm sure you'll grin each time you step on the gas anyway.

I'm waiting for CCM to make up his mind on pistons or for 1 more guy to commit. After that we'll be ready for pistons. Twin Turbo, if you're goiing with boost later you can get an 11cc dish which will be stockish compression and still blower/turbo friendly without sacrificing power. Just an FYI...

 

I think i'm going to stick with the flat tops because i plan on P&P heads so that will lower compression a little bit. If it's not boost friendly then i will just stay N/A. I plan on having the pistons notched though for PTV clearance. Like i said before i want to make as much power N/A as possible.

 

sounds good. You'll still be able to run boost, just not much of it before you have to start pulling timing and adding fuel or going to a higher octane.

 

Yeah it will be a few years after i finish the motor before i add boost anyways so i might decide to go a different route then. But for now this should work.