Yeah due to foundry issues. There was a little delay at the casting facility but they're supposed to be through that and working up again. I'll ping bob and find out if there's any updates. I kinda figure when one shows up at my doorstep, then we know they're released.

Those are 4.6L blocks

That's a really good solution actually. You may want to check on the rod weight though.
Looks like they use a 690gram rod. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-4-5...spagenameZWD1V uses a 610 gram rod and you can get probe or Mahle slugs, it's about 50 bucks more but you save about 2lbs of rotating weight. I got that setup... so did several others.

I would find a donor motor for the front cover and all the little bits, have that rebuilt with whatever bits you like best, and bolt that bad boy up.

 

http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...=905267&page=4

*949.99 is for 18 cc dish

i just ordered mine(11cc dish) from them for about 1100 total shipped


MMR rods with arp2000 bolts(really just a relabeled manley)
MMR Manley pistons .20 over with locks/pins/plasma moly rings etc

 

Thanks, I might have bought a 4.6 aluminum! A mind is a terrible thing to waste, especially your own!
How about one of the 5.4 blocks they have at www.karkraft.com Then I could add the forged parts that you referrenced me to(THANKS!) Not sure if stock bore pistons are available there but saving 2lbs of rotating weight is cool. I'd like to get this started with a block, possibly a motor from a yard depending on the cost.

I'll price out a running motor locally and then post that here to get opinions on what is the best way to go. It seems that the crank and front cover are the items I really neeed from a donor motor, right?

 

well, lucky for me i pulled the headers to send to r3d. it seems that there are a couple cyl not sealing right. there was oil in the exhaust so what i heard was right about probe having crappy rings on thier forged pistons. ordering some plasma moly rings today and rering the motor while r3d has my headers to play with....

 

I bought total seal rings IIRC. Cost 100 bucks extra but appears to be worth it.

 

how about a countdown for the intake????



can't wait.....

 

Anyone having ring seal problems...did you use deck plates for boring and honing?

 

dang the HPS intake is all i need to finish my build..
anyone interested in some adapter plates?

 

because the mod motor bolts to the main bulkheads torque plates/deck plates are not necessary.

 

so far in many years factory style plas-moly are cheap and work for thousands of miles.

of course total seal gapless are probably best. i just never use them.

 

Nightgwing, That intake will not match up to 3V heads will it? Aren't 2V, 3V and 4V heads all different as far as ports go? Or are they making an HPS for 3V's also?
I was going to say how about an SVO intake, the granddaddy of the Bullitt, dual 57mm throtle as you have now but a HUGE lower plenum that makes the Bullitt look.... well small! Had to make it smaller for the street and mass production as the SVO is for higher rpm's OR LARGER MOTORS! I did the coolant mod to it and could email a pic to somebody if they could post it here. I would like to have it in my sig but with webTV I can't do much.
If I go ahead with the 5.4 it would likely make an excellent intake for the motor if it fits with hiod clearance. I was told that the adapter plates raise the intake an inch or two, correct? How much, PM Me, Mark

 

Unless you can get adaptors to match the tear drop shape of the intake and heads, the clearance issue will be a problem. Perhaps you can get a special made set of adaptors or do some welding on the already made PI adaptors. If not, then you will have to add more adaptors or possibly do some port matching and welding, that may save some space.
JUST IN CASE YOU DON'T KNOW

SVO & NPI heads have a port shape that are close and look like a teardrop shape. As for the PI heads, the shape is more square. Does one flow better then the other? We can argue till we are blue in the face and get no where. SO don't start people!

 

am very interested in doing this but i really dont have the time to read through all your threads. im in the usmc and only get 30min to use the computer. if u could tell me where to buy and cost it would help me out. I want the 5.4 4v and the up graded tko trans. i plan on buying all parts and taking it to a shop in socal or orange co. and watching there faces when i ask them to do it. o do any of u know a good shop in the area???

 

MMR sells turnkey DOHC 5.4 single and twin turbo race cars that run in the 7's
www.modularmustangracing.com or you could contact them to get pricing etc on a street version but for 5.4 4v they are the guys to ask

Turn Key Race Cars

2005+ Body Style, back half, 25.5 or 25.2 will run 7.30-7.90 Range $89,000 (outlaw or drag radial)

99-04 Body Style, back half, 25.5 or 25.2 will run 7.30-7.90 Range $79,000 (outlaw or drag radial)

99-04 Body Style, Factory style Suspension, 25.5 will run 7.70-8.10 Range $65,000 (drag radial)

All above cars feature single or twin turbo 5.4 DOHC powerplants, FAST fuel injection, Fast Touch screen

dash board/data logger and Air/liquid Intercoolers. CALL FOR DETAILS

 

Are you referring to me and the SVO intake? If so it has been port matched to PI heads and is on my '99 GT now. Probably could be matched better but I used it as I bought it and it seems to work fine. If I go 5.4 I will adapt it to the apapters themselves better. If the SVO or Bullitt has shown to be an issue I ouold like to know now if possible. I have always liked the Cobra R hood wioth the SVT/SVO scoop. Good for letting hot air out also.
Truth be known I would like to get another Conquest car from '88 or '89. Not a ricer but a MOPAR!

 

www.karkraft.com has complete motors, 5.4 4v and you would not need $80K nor would you have a race car but a very quick street car! $89K. I won't even sk

 

going to the machine shop to drop everything off tomorrow



forged crank
mmr h beams with arp2000's
mmr manley pistons -11cc, 20 over
plasma rings
arp main/head studs
+1mm stainless valves
comp springs/retainers
ported heads
S-trim mongoose kit

only things i don't have yet
haven't decided on cams yet(probably tim's blower cams)
hopefully the HPS comes out in time so i can drop it straight in
longtubes...hoping i can modify my bbk's without too much trouble

 

thanks for the reply. i dont have 80k so i just wanted a 5.4 and since im spending $$ i mine as well get the 4v. all i wanted was a cheap fuel injected motor to put the normal bolt ons underdrive pully, cai, plenum, t/b then when i get more $$$ heads cam and small turbo. i heard of adapter plates and dont really know what there for. anything else ill need

 

I really don't know what to do. The Mustang is mine as I would lose too much to sell. The adapter plates are to fit a 4.6 intake onto a 5.4 block. Speaking of which if the 5.4 sits about 1" taller exactly how mush extra height do the plates add? My SVO is like the Bullitt. Do I set a 3" piece of something soft on the intAKE AND SEE IF THE HOOD CLOSES!
I can bget that aluminum block but would have to do it this week as the sale ends friday, $440. shipped.
The plates and 8-bolt flexplate are probably about that much. I believe the rest of the mods would be labor for adapting the 4.6 oil pan and modifyingt the mid pipe, is that correct?
So the cost difference is whatever the yard wants for the 5.4 or wherever I can get one from. I cannot afford to get a $2000. block from karkraft at this time and the motor in the stang could last 2 years if driven easy, well not too hard!
What are the stock cam specs of the 5.4, anyone? How about stock 5.4 rod/piston weights?
Since I would be farming out all of the labor I need to have this done correctly. Do I have it correctly that the thread starter has a Comp 270 in his car, Colin, is that correct?
The idea of a lot more torque at 1000rpm's less than a 4.6 and the extra 50 cubes for power could allow that I remove the 4.10's for the 3.27's and have a motor that is quicker than what I have now that gets better mileage as the torquw would likely make up for the extra cubes.Just look at new stangs and the GT mileage is just a couple of MPG more than the V6's due to the extra power/torque moving the 3600lbs. that much easier.
I need some opinions from guys who hae done this mod, swap in a 5.4. I either act this week or wait until winter and see what happens with the price of fuel and other factors that are certainly out of my control. Getting the 4.6 aluminum is something I could do this week.
Really it seems a wash financially, block vrs. adapters/flexplate are about nequal, then it is the cost of the 5.4 and having my car down for some time as the 4.6 is pulled and taken apart for the crank and other parts to build the 4.6 or have a 5.4 ready to drop into the car?
I sure wish I could have a ride in a 5.4 NA and see what the difference between a 4.6 and a 5.4 is like! GUYS?

 

Can't get the link to work, is it from my end? Name of ebay store? Number? THX!

 

It is extremely important to bore and hone mod motors with deck plate because the cylinder walls are so thin and they distort with any torque applied to the block from head bolts to main bolts, all major mod motor builders will tell you this is a must with these engines.

 

Want to test the water on this:

I have a NPI 5.4L from a 98 Navi that I was going to put in my Mustang and swap out the 4.6 from the Mustang and put in my truck (the current 4.6 in the truck is getting tires and in need of a rebuild and this little 3 way swap seemed like a good idea. I am throwing a wrench in it now by possibly trading the GT for a Termi. I am going down on Tuesday to check out the Cobra. If the deal goes through, I have a 5.4L that I'm not sure what to do with. I don't want to put it in the truck b/c it's just my work truck and I don't want to have to get the CPU tuned for the 5.4. I would rather just drop a 4.6L in to replace the old one.

Anyone interested in trading their 4.6 for my 5.4, let me know. I am around Hunt Valley MD (between Baltimore and York, PA.) the 5.4 is sitting on a stand in the garage and is complete with all accessories (even the oil cooler). I removed it from the truck myself and drove it before we took it out. It had 67K miles on it and I am looking for a comparable 4.6 to swap if anyone is interested PM me. Otherwise, I guess I'll sell it and buy a 4.6 locally. Wish me luck on the Termi

 

i wasn't saying necessarily buy one of their turn key race cars, but more that if their are parts you need for the build they are a good source for them as they have done what you are doing and far beyond so they'd have no problem making/getting whatever you need or doing the work for you

 

wrong.

 

This all depends on what your budget will allow.

If I spent money for a bore and hone and using forged pistons......yeah I would want it torque plated!

But NO if I was using stock "sized" pistons and just needed to "re-hatch" the bores.

My 2 cents(according to my wife this info is worthless)

 

According to Brian, co-owner of Hitech mMotorsports who has extensive knoowledge on the modulars the block is so badly casyt as farb as alignment goes thsat degreeing cams is not needed. He said if you degree #1 and then checked say #3 it would be off. He said to buid a race motor they fill the lifter bores and rebore them to the proer alingment with the cam bores, etc. I don't think many of us are building sub 10 second cars. Hitech are the guys who get 45whp from their stage 2 cams wikoth stock heads, stock intake and stock TB/plenums! Headers are all they recommend. They have the dyno tests to prove it and I have PM'd many Hitech users. Torque above 300lbsft from 3300-5000+rpm! That is back into the seat torque and whp of 300 on a stock motor, wow! That may be a great cam for a 5.4 or maybe yhe stage 3

 

He is right that the head bolts do go that deep (in fact, Ford brags about this in the FRPP catalogs). Not sure on honing w/ torque plates but it wouldn't hurt to do it. Remember, better safe than sorry.

 

fack ihate set backs...replaced pitman/idler on truck yesterday and firestone already had too many lined up today to get it in

 

if you asked the wives of most the members on this board they would say the same

 

Local yard wants $2,000. for the only 5.4 they have and it has 40k miles. I understand the 8-bolt flexplates are discontinued and I would have to find a used one but yards will usually not separate thenm from the engine or tranny? 4.6 is here to stay? Aluminum block built to take the revs I guess! Good luck all!