I'm running 8psi to get started then after installing 800 hp. fuel system I'm going to up it to 16 psi and retune for 92 gas, I will probably take some 116 with me and make another tune for 16+ psi on race gas but I dont plan on much track time just because i dont want to cage the car. The 14-16 psi range on 92 gas will probably get me thrown out of the local 1/8th mile track. My goal is 600hp at the rear wheels on pump gas.

R3D,

what size primary tubes does your calculations recommend, I think my shorty headers i am cutting up are 1.625 but before I start fabbing these up I thought I would check and see if I should step up to 1.75 tubes.

 

I'm going to push my S-Trim to its max. I think I have a 2.9 pully but I forget now. I have to break my clutch in first anyways so that will do until I can get it tuned at wot.

 

Mach one hood with custom scoop is almost done painted I will let you all know how it fits clearance wise soon!

 

sounds like that will be an awesome street car. i cant wait to get the 5.4 in mine with my procharger. i could be goin a little faster with it but im kinda multi tasking. trying to get a few things figured out and also tryin to get some forged stuff. as a matter of fact i just need to get a 5.4 block and the forged build can begin

 

the simulations were run for you based on 1.625" short tube headers. Adding longtubes of the same size would be a good way to go. With boost you really fill the exhaust fast, so bigger exhaust will reduce pumping losses and increase rwhp without affecting the total bhp produced by much.

http://www.car-part.com, great site.

I have a spare 5.4 block that's free to anyone that wants to get it wet sleeved and shipped. It's got a pretty nasty ding in the #6 cylinder so it'll definitely need sleeved.

 

ran a best time so far. altered intake is the only new thing fron last fall.

old: 9.0109 @ 79.49

new: 8.5811 @ 81.49

 

Is something hindering you a lot? I would figure you should be a few tenths lower than that. I'm running an 8.67 @ 82.25 with only maybe 230 rwhp on pretty sucky street tires.

I'd take it if you weren't across the country!

 

yes, no tune, and bad shift points. i hit the rev limiter 2-3 shift. i am also an auto and you are not.

 

i do call BS flag if you only have 230 rwhp and run 8.60's. we have all kinds of 99-04 gt's with full bolt-ons that only run 9.0's.

05+ gt's run 8.9 stock here. and full on 05+ gt's run 8.50's.

stock automatic 05+ gt's run 9.20 here.

mach 1's with some bolt-ons run 8.5's

full bolt-on mach's run 8.2 here.

 

those 99-04's have a dyno proven 250ish rwhp.

 

Whoa whoa buddy, not trying to get into a big argument so don't go throwing the bs flag. I can pm a timeslip if it's absolutely necessary, but I see no reason in lying to a couple guys over the internet....

Anyway, my car is an automatic as well. Where do you live? High altitude? Most stock 99-04 GT automatics around here dyno at around 220rwhp or a little lower, manuals dyno at around 225-230 rwhp stock. No way a new edge will make more than 230ish rwhp stock. I maybe picked up 10-12 rwhp from my intake, cat-back, and canned tune, so no way I'm anymore than 235 rwhp, but I feel like it's more likely closer to 230 rwhp. A lot of people on other forums have told me my times are pretty fast though, and from what I've seen I agree, so you aren't crazy or anything. I went to the track expecting 9.0's, but I ran 7 times and all were within a tenth of each other. None were slower than 8.7, and this was my first time driving at the track. I hope to hit an 8.5 when I get my off-road x-pipe on soon. The nitrous will be on before long, so I should be well into the 7's.

A tune would probably get you running normal though since you said you didn't have one. Street tires? That torque has got to be pretty hard to get traction with.

And also, one thing I've learned by reading people's times and watching people at the track, 90% of the people with manual transmissions are not very good drivers! Everytime I see it, I'm happier I went with an automatic. Don't get me wrong, sticks are more fun to drive and better for racing when any turns are involved, but in a straight line, clutches FTL!

 

Stop, back to 5.4L swap stuff please...

 

Back on topic here...

Progress over the last week has been slow. I came down with the flu on Wednesday and it it still kicking my ***!
I did put a couple hours yesterday and today, but was not able to drop it in yet.

Here are some new pics...

Comp XE270AH cams and adjustable cam gears installed

Getting everything timed in properly... The left bank was off by 4* and the right was off by 1.5* I just decided to leave them installed straight-up.

All buttoned up

With the adapter plates


My work this weekend has brought up a couple questions I have for those that are already done...
How did you mount the power steering reservoir bracket to the front timing cover?
How did you route a belt? What size belt was needed?

 

Mine bolted right back on

belt routing for me was the same, belt lenght was.............. i forget as Ive had 2 diff setups. You running your 4.6 accys? UD pulleys? 8 rib stuff? Let me know and Ill tell you the lenght.

 

I think I read with using all the 4.6 accessories and the 5.4 tensioner you just use an F-150 belt, but I'm probably wrong. Someone can correct me. I'm new to the 5.4 stuff but I've been reading a lot about it, so I'm learning.

And is that 330mustang website still going that r3dn3ck created?

 

it's still going... but the servers suck monkey **** so it's hella slow. I'm working up a better site.

Mine went on just like stock. Here's a close up pic of the whole mess for you.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...110307_001.jpg

It should cover up the cam position sensor when in place. There's only 1 way it'll mount as such so that should be pretty easy to debug. If nothing else, just mount it on a stud from the cover or anywhere else it'll reach. Doesn't much matter as long as it's above the pump. I think I used a 1" shorter belt in the end... but i messed with pulley sizes.

 

i don't see mounting holes on your cover for the ps reservior. odd....

 

Okay, well lets us know when you get the new site up.

Also, do they make carburetor intake manifolds for 5.4's? I know they make them for 4.6's but I wasn't sure about the 5.4's. I know you can use adaptor plates and use the 4.6 manifold, but I am totally against using adaptors because they just don't flow good. I'm interested in doing an all-motor carbureted 5.4 2-valve set up with a little nitrous on the side.

 

Sullivan makes them for 4V heads. However, I'm sure you can make an adaptor for the upcoming HPS 5.4 intake to mate up to a standard carb. Just plug the holes for the injectors.

 

The Hardball'r probably wouldn't make a good carb intake. The plenum is upside down for that. Works great with fuel injection but probably get a lot of fuel puddling with a carb on top.

IIRC Edelbrock has their 5.4 victor jr out. If not, call up Kar-Kraft...they'll probably be just as happy to make one. Otherwise, Hogan would be a good choice for a dedicate strip car.

 

edelbrock advertises a 5.4 manifold. using their 4 bbl fuel injection where the injectors are placed in the throttle body will yield superior results.

 

for serious rpm with 5.4's (above 7000) high mounted injectors are required. piston velocity is so high that fuel will lose suspension and wipe the cylinder walls, thereby destroying the motor. Al had it happen one too many times, so he switched to carbs, partly for that reason. so the edelbrock throttle body mounted injector or great for 5.4's turning a lot of rpm's.

 

Where have you seen the 5.4 intake from Edelbrock? I cant find anything about it... only 4.6 intake

 

I have been searching haven't found a 5.4 victor jr either. I know karkraft makes them for 4V's, so I'm getting ready to contact them about 5.4 2V intakes and I'll let anyone who is interested know what they say. I dont want to use adaptors because it seems like they cant make more than 300 rwhp, which wont be enough for me. Hopefully as technology advances with the mod motors, I can make make 400 rwhp from a built 5.xL 2V.

And r3dne3ck, is your set up a 5.5L from boring it?

 

when I do mine (kinda way off right now) it will be fed by a turbo. So the 5.4 Victor with an big elbow and throttle body would be just right for what I want. Please let me know anything you find out.

 

I will be fabbing up shorty headers for my turbo set up this weekend, I am making them so I can upgrade to twins if I so desire in the future. I will take lot of pics and post them here. I am starting of with a standard set of shorty's for F150 and cutting them down to near the flanges, then stepping them up in pipe size before entering collector. They will exit through k-member on both sides and shoot forward like most the aftermarket twin setups. Here is a pic of previous setup.

 

NICE! Def keep us posted with that!

 

Yep. It's a 334.3cid (3.5742x4.165). True 5.4L volume = 329.5ci which the stock 330 makes nicely. 5.5L = 335.6ci. It's 5ci over a true 5.4L but only 1ci under a true 5.5L. Industry standard practice is to round for metric conversions, so you get 5.5L.

That's why the chebby 350 is a 5.7L but the Ford 351 is a 5.8L. Nomenclature wars.

 

So yours is about .020" over?

This is the email I got from Karkraft when asking them about a 5.4 2V intake:

no sorry, we have no plans to manufacture anything new for the 2V engines.
thanks

Not sure what other option there is without adaptors. Is it possible to port the adaptors enough where they are not a restriction?

 

it's the angle change that's the real killer for power. If you hog em out good they're not that big a deal but you have to really work your ports and make sure you knock down all the sharp angles. It takes me about 2 hours to port 1 plate that far.

Yeah, .020 over. If you're building a motor the 20 overbore unshrouds the valve nicely without hot spotting along the walls and it gives you the extra .010 for the next freshening which leaves another rebuild available before a new block has to be considered.