jscott, dont forget to knock the oil pan baffles over slightly and rotate it by hand to make sure it clears the crank throws

 

Cool, thanks. I put the pan on and it fit without issue. But maybe that is because the crank throws were out of the way of the baffles. I should be dropping the new assembly into the car this weekend and I'd be pretty upset if once i fired it up, I was hearing the crank hitting the baffels.

 

a couple good smacks with a hammer will drop them properly. It's a serious don't-forget item.

 

just bought a used set of BBK longtubes locally. Going to get them cut up and see if I can make instructions for y'all.

 

Rotate it by hand, it will hit. Or like r3d said, knock each down 1/4" or so and be done. Dont try installing it without modifiying them though

 

First post, and I have been reading on this link for awhile before even registering. Couple of questions that I have that I didn't see or maybe over looked. Now alot I have seen is that peole are going with the 4.6 stroker to get a 5.0. Now I have seen good results with those apps, but makes me wonder why alot of people are putting the 5.4 down. Is it because of a whole new short block? Or is it that you have to use the spacers to get a 4.6 intake to work?
What is the limiting flow on the engine when you have a 2V and not even considering a 4V. Mostly for cost. Is it the intake or heads, or a combo of both?

Thanks for anyone who can give me some answers.

Chad

 

I used a new stock replacement pan and didnt have any problem with anything hitting, was it just certain years or what on that pan problem. Also how much of the baffle was hitting, inches???

 

Sorry if you already covered this r3d, but have you seen the new 6.3l stroker crank mentioned in the Mags? If so, what are your thoughts?

 

i saw that crank in the magazine and looked up the web site. i could be wrong but i think they were wanting over 2 grand just for the crank by itself.thats just way to much for a crank if u ask me.

 

you didn't ask me but the 5.4 has to much stroke as it is any more and we will be building tractors

 

Who was the manufacturer? I can't seem to find it now...

 

mmr makes the block (5.8) with a 3.75 bore and pachal performace makes the crank

 

It's only going to tag the counterweights on the front of the crank. There's less than 1/4" of interference. Just give em both a good smack. The baffles on mine both hit right in the middle of their length before I gave them the hammer.

It's a neat starting point for a much more radical build but as long as 2v or 3v heads are in the mix there's no point. You just can't get the flow to make it worth the expense. Ported 4v heads, hellz yeah. The stroke is already at the upper end of what you commonly see but it's not out of control yet...it's just that if you get much more stroke biased then you need to really just hang it up and wet sleeve the thing so you can have the bore size too.

Too much... meh. Just right for a street car IMO. Definitely a little tall for most racing where speeds are kept high though. Without a proper bore increase 2fuzy is right...you'll have a tractor or boat motor.

As for the whole 5.0/5.4 argument... well the 5.0 has some definite benefits but I don't think a damned one of them comes at a cost that's reasonable. To take advantage of the 5.0 setup you need a full rotating kit, machining, professional assembly, etc... To take advantage of the 5.4 you just need any ol used 5.4L short block and whatever other mods you can afford. The tq gains are going to be higher and if you set it up right the HP will be higher too.

People put down the 5.4 because they only know how to read dyno's, not track times.

 

I'd think a 6.3l stroker in a CVPI would be an awesome sleeper if you could get it to hook.

 

I just looked a paschal's website, those are so expensive, because they are BILLET. That thing would last forever in most applications... Long term, it'd be a good investment...

 

I havnt seen many(or any) 5.4 track times, but I do agree about putting too much faith into dyno numbers, there just that numbers. Figure out how to keep the tq up high past 5000 in a 5.4 2v, and the dyno numbers will come.

 

Dan Simons... the guy that wrote the article. Solid 12's on a stock head/cam/exhaust car. From there you'd think someone would have had some track time but instead we see a lot of street action.

Saleen S330 at one time was pulling 13's and 14's at like 112mph due to 3.73's and street tires letting him smoke em' in 3rd... on a prepared track. I think if he'd have had 3.55's or 3.27's he might have made better times.

 

I will definately be taking mine to the 1320 this year. granted, I am running an IRS, it should still do well with my 3.55 gears. Last year I did a best of 13.8 @ 101 crossing the traps on the rev limiter in 3rd. With the lower redline, I will definately have to shift to 4th now.
I did end up getting some larger cams, I found someone local that wanted to swap for my cranes. Now I have the same setup as most of you... Comp XE270AH. Because I will not be running this engine above 5700 RPM, do you think I would benefit from advancing the cam a couple degrees so I hit peak power before my redline?

 

ok 96black54. i can send the bracket whenever u are ready. i just need to know where to send it to.

also by the way i forgot to tell you that my engine is a pi engine so u will know which timeing cover to use.

did u need me to take any pictures of the bracket on the blower or anything. if u do let me know and i will take some and send the pictures with the bracket.

 

Problems I have ran across while doing install, some may have been covered some maybe not. Just an FYI...

1. Valve covers got to be on, I had to pull motor back out a little,

2. Automatics need different dip stick tube or rework the 4.6 one to fit around head

3. 97 block and 03 4.6 had different tranny bolts, std vs metric

4. aluminum colored ac line needed bent a little to get vavle cover to clear

5. 8 bolt ford svo flexplate doesnt match b&m holeshot converter bolts. had the pilot holes there at like a 1/4, drilled out to 7/16.

6. QA1 tubular k-member didnt have pin hole on drivers side motor mount pad

 

R3d can you run those numbers at 8 psi boost with 270 cam retarded 2 degrees, I'm going t set it at 8 until I get new fuel system put together and new intake.

 

I got questions? You have awnsers!

What is the bracket originaly used on? What was it for?

PM sent

 

You'll like that cam.... I do. If you are going to fiddle with the cam timing I'd still retard it a couple rather than advance it. With +2 deg on the cam you could drive it just like you did with the 4.6 and only notice yourself moving faster.

If you retard the cam you'll have an excess of tq before you come into the HP side of the graph.



CDJ: You're looking at over 415rwhp/tq on 9.5:1 compression, ported heads, shorties, 8lbs from a Novi 2000 or similar, and -2deg on xe270's. It shows 475bhp@6000rpm and 470btq@4000rpm. It's a full 25-30hp/tq difference with the 2deg retard. I'd definitely do it. -4deg is worth another 15hp at the very very top end. Add longtubes for probably 30hp or more gain.

 

pm sent

 

Those are awesome numbers. If anyone else knows of track times then post them up. I've been looking for 5.4 videos but cant find many.

 

I went with the 2 degree retard and its in, just need to start fabbing up exhaust and bolting up intake, wiring and stall.

 

cdjnight, lemme know how you like that converter.

 

My friend said he should have my supercharger bracket done this weekend.
I hope I can pick it up tomorrow. Since he already did one he might be willing to do others.

 

how many pounds of boost u plan on runnin?

 

Will do....