BTW, "When rebuilding an engine that is internally balanced, the flywheel and damper have no effect on engine balance and can be balanced seperatly"

 

LOL, Good luck and keep up the pioneering, and as for most my of my information, it was researched from Sean Hyland, Greg Banish, Richard Holdener, Ben Watson and Corky Bell's books and asking questions with local engine builders. As for the performance of my car I could care less what you say, I'm not here to bench race just to learn and help others, unlike yourself, which doesn't deserve to even be here.

 

Pioneering efforts are great for us, I'm sure I can speak for everyone here, We will greatly appreciate the feedback you provide.

 

One more for you "and warned about indexing the position of the flywheel if they have to remove it later for resurfacing. Owners of externally balanced engines should also be warned about installing different flywheels or harmonic dampers and how it can upset balance."

Notice this last statement as its all over the damn internet. It says "owners of externally balanced engines" need to be worried when changing the dampers and NOT those with internally balanced engines.

So getting back to my original question before she came in here regurgitating what she has read, does anyone know if my 4.6 damper will fit the 5.4 crank SINCE IT DOES NOT ******* MATTER. Thanks dude for running us all around in a circle to get right back to where I started, as if this thread wasnt long enough allready.

BTW, i caught the little quick stab at redn3ck in your last post as Im sure he and everyone else did.

 

I'm not going to argue with ignorance and if you read my first reply I answered your question "YES" it will fit just fine. As for changing the balancer out, I'm sure they meant the stock replacement one, not one off a totally different size engine.

 

i used my steeda udp from my 4.6 over to my 1st 5.4 without any issues.

 

Did the motor survive, how long, if not what went wrong with it. Which balancer was on it originally and what year udp did you use? Any info would be great!

 

it had the stock 8 rib crank pulley, used the steeda dampner that was equal to stock 4.6 engines. the motor went south under the control of someone who revved it past 7k for way to long and a rod broke.

 

Thanks for the info myillwill, much appreciated!

cdjnight, as for the ignorance statement, coming from a regurgitator such as yourself I take it with a grain of salt. When I am out making parts to use and your buying them off a shelf I will try not to let your words hurt me too much. Take care!

 

Supra just drop it, know one here cares about your regurgitating fantasy and know one here needs your name calling potty mouth and disrespectful attitude, most of us are here to help each other and learn, so why don't you find another forum to rant on and leave this one clean for others to enjoy and use to better ourselves without your crap.

 

How many miles do you suppose you had on it before it let go, also what did you use for your new set up and did your engine builder need your balancer during the build?

Also is your balancer and pulley two pieces, it looks like it on your web page? Newer style ones are one piece.

 

the steeda one is one piece with the rubber insert in it like the stock one. i had it on for 2 years. the motor let go cus the driver didn't understand that the red area at the right end of the tach isn't where u keep the needle.

the new combo the machine shop balanced the crank/rods/pistons. the aluminum flywheel was balanced at spec where i got it from.

 

Name calling will not be tolerated here. Consider this your first warning.

Please continue the conversation in a civilized manor guys.

 

Hate to say it but in Sean Hyland's book, he states that for 4.6's anyway, you should use the Cobra one for stick shift and the Marauder one for auto cars. I think it also said using a 5.4 on a 4.6 won't harm anything but I don't have the book w/ me at this time so I can't say for sure about the 5.4.

 

Sorry about that and my oppologies, Ill just ignore her. Ill also go back and clean up my posts

 

Thank you!

What a waste of time reading "crap".

 

Agreed, especially to end right back up to the original thought that it does not matter which damper you use.

 

one thing i noticed was that when i put the steeda one on my 4.6 it felt smoother at idle then the stock one. but now that i have soild motor and trans mounts and an aluminum flywheel along with the stage 3 cams i don't think i'll notice any odd vibrations on this motor if any arise.

 

wow guys.. I leave for 1 day and you're at each others throats.

single and cdj please knock it off and be nice to each other. just a little... please.

Now then, there are UDP's for trucks too so I'm inclined to believe that as long as it's all neutral balanced things should be fine. I've got bigger fish to fry for now and those aren't going on till at least spring anyway.

Now back to the grinding and gnashing of teeth.

Dyno run is coming day affa tomorrow at 13:00 pacific. Hoping for reasonably high numbers. I'll be kinda disappointed if I don't clear 300rwhp but whatever it's not like the numbers being lower than expected changes the fact that it's sick fast... I mean; like the man said, "I'm goin fast daddy!"

I finally pulled out all my gauges and the rats nest of wiring that had accumulated and redid the whole works. No more hard switched activation or key-off function but they all come on with the key and all the lights dim with the main cluster. The newest one is a Volt gauge that I stashed in my center console. It's been kinda nagging at me for a while to get it in there. I've been convinced that my battery is going bad but without an accurate volts gauge it's hard to be certain.

Like always all my connections were soldered and covered with shrink tube. One of the problems with the rats nest was a vampire tap that I used for a ground wire on my AF gauge that was getting crosstalk from the radar detector every time it'd get a strong hit. Bugged me.

 

so where are u getting in dyned at?

 

BRG in concord. I did the tuning with a little help from Amazon racing and it's ready. Holds a nice pretty mid-12's:1 AF and there's no knocking that I can hear. It's a loud *** bitch at 6grand though.

Speaking of which, how's the beastie running.

 

K... let the betting begin. 1 dollar buys you in, closest to hp AND tq without going over wins a buck from all takers. We're betting on my dyno results. Payment will be paypal only so only play if you have paypal.

Desktop dyno says I should see 319rwhp/344rwtq. I'll take that action. Almost guarantees that I'll be under that and lose.

 

r3dn3ck any word on the intake manifolds, just curious, motor is really close to being done, just waiting for heads to be shipped back from CNC porting.

 

Just outa curiosity - what do you guys think my setup is worth on the market right now ?


This setup is UNASSEMBLED

98 5.4L Block bored .20 over, cleaned and painted
Manley .20 over 18cc slugs
Speedpro rings
Manley/MMR Rods
ARP Rod Bolts

Is $2,000 reasonable?

 

Seems very reasonable to me, I actually tried to buy a built shortblock in the classifieds for the same price and got the run around so I passed. I dont see why you cant get that.
Hmm, just reread and its unassembled. I really cant say as most prefer it to be together before purchasing.

 

Im gonna say 325/355 because I beleave the combo you have is going to be more potent than you(or anyone else) thinks. I got a feeling my numbers are going to be shy of the actual also. Paypal the same as when I sent the last?

 

would i still be able to keep the accessories like a/c?


also, does it bolt up to the stock manual transmission in an 04 GT

 

Yes, you can keep the AC but you need the longer belt of the 5.4. And yes, the trans fits since it's the same bellhousing pattern

 

what about headers and exhaust systems?

 

Those need to be modified accordingly due to the increased width and height of the 5.4. Look back on previous pages, your answers have been answered already.