2V to 4V swap
#31
I am doing the swap so I have real #s of cash spent and best thing is to let a shop do all the math and work. The engine swap is roughly 6-8 k including labor. This is using new parts and upgrading parts instead of using the stock components. You can do it alot cheaper but if you plan on 600-700 rwhp then there is no way around spending alot of money on the engine. If you lower the compression for SC as Im doing then you will be loosing some power but adding pullies,timing adj,gears,long tubes and other bolts on will bring it up again. Remember the most significant power adder with be the SC not the build of the motor. Since I have the 235hp Gt it will be a big improvement when the Cobra motor get dropped in and the SC is just the icing on the cake.
#33
Originally Posted by oohsoobad2
Venoum... any details of your swap ?? Im trying make a set plan for my car next spring and Im very intrested in a 4V swap.
#34
A mongoose kit wouldn't help much on a 96-98 non-P.I. GT. Those poor cars just don't have any *****...forced induction or no. A P.I. or SVO headswap is leaps better. Any 4V configuration is bounds better. Esp. Forced induction.
Don't forget Headers too...That's another necessity for the swap. Might as well get longtubes while your at it to really take advantage of the significant airflow, and knock it all out at once.
EDIT:
If you plan on going with a centrifugal style supercharger I would not advise lowering compression. Most people run FlatTops 10:1 Absolulte minimum would be 9.5:1 and that's if your going to be boosting to the moon. These DOHC cars love the compression, and there aren't really appreciable gains for dropping compression ratio, for added timing etc. All it does is kill low end torque and response. Turbo's and positive displacement blowers are another story...but usually (9-9.5:1 Turbo) (8.5-9:1 Positive Displacement) is plenty sufficient to resist detonation and retain low-end torque.
Remember...it's all in the tune!
Good luck with the builds guys.
Philip K.
Don't forget Headers too...That's another necessity for the swap. Might as well get longtubes while your at it to really take advantage of the significant airflow, and knock it all out at once.
EDIT:
If you plan on going with a centrifugal style supercharger I would not advise lowering compression. Most people run FlatTops 10:1 Absolulte minimum would be 9.5:1 and that's if your going to be boosting to the moon. These DOHC cars love the compression, and there aren't really appreciable gains for dropping compression ratio, for added timing etc. All it does is kill low end torque and response. Turbo's and positive displacement blowers are another story...but usually (9-9.5:1 Turbo) (8.5-9:1 Positive Displacement) is plenty sufficient to resist detonation and retain low-end torque.
Remember...it's all in the tune!
Good luck with the builds guys.
Philip K.
#35
after checking out all the prices, it's hard to eat a $6000-$8000 build...
so i'm thinking a procharger D-1SC to boost it a little bit, then later in summer convert the heads after the s/c...
so i'm thinking a procharger D-1SC to boost it a little bit, then later in summer convert the heads after the s/c...
#37
i actually considered that, but this car took me 3 months to find, and plus i have already put so much blood, sweat, tears, and money into this thing, i love it.
my plan is s/c it now, enjoy the boost for awhile then when i work full-time again, save all my money for the head swap
my plan is s/c it now, enjoy the boost for awhile then when i work full-time again, save all my money for the head swap
#38
Originally Posted by ColoradoStang
after checking out all the prices, it's hard to eat a $6000-$8000 build...
so i'm thinking a procharger D-1SC to boost it a little bit, then later in summer convert the heads after the s/c...
so i'm thinking a procharger D-1SC to boost it a little bit, then later in summer convert the heads after the s/c...
Really doing a 4V head swap isnt worth the effort. It drops compression, which isnt a bad thing w/ a blower, but its by no means an easy bolt on and lots of pieces are required. You would be much better off buying a used longblock and building it on the side. That way you have all your pieces.
A cheaper option would be to install ported and polished PI heads and aftermarket cams. There are combo's out there now to support over 700 rwhp.
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