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  #1  
Old 12-18-2008, 08:41 PM
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Default Another cam question

Ok this is probably a dumb question but im so paranoid about getting it wrong that i have to ask...we're installing stage 2 comp cams in a 2000 gt...i know that it makes a difference which cam goes in which side and im afraid of mixing them up...so how do i make sure we put the right cam in the right side? I was also wondering if the markings stamped on the cams mean anything, and if so what?
one cam has 15B stamped on and the other has 14B...the cam that has 14B on it also has HR written on it in what looks a bit like sharpie. Again this is probably a stupid question but i would really apprecieate some help...thanx!
 
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:38 PM
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They should only go in one way. You should be able to spin the cams by hand after you torque down the cam caps, of course the lifters should still be removed at this point.
 
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:44 AM
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call comp. They'll be able to tell you if it's the 14 or 15 that goes in which side. It does matter a lot. You can sorta tell by the fact that the cam gears only bolt onto 1 side and the lobes are going to ramp a certain way but it's best to be certain. I have the xe270's in my car but I don't recall which one went into which side. Don't forget to degree the cams.
 
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Old 12-19-2008, 08:52 AM
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How do you degree cams R3d?
 
  #5  
Old 12-27-2008, 12:56 PM
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It's a long, drawn out process and requires adjustable gears if you need or want to move the cams more than a couple degrees. Rather than trying to explain it, take a look at this:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-103.pdf
 
  #6  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:04 PM
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Damn. That sounds like a major PITA. What's the worst that could happen if you don't do that?
 
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by audikillsbmw
Damn. That sounds like a major PITA. What's the worst that could happen if you don't do that?
The engine could make 20hp less than if the cams were installed at the wrong LCs. Oh, and degreeing them may ensure there is no PTV contact.
 

Last edited by na svt; 01-09-2009 at 06:16 AM.
  #8  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:24 AM
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it's that last bit that really bites you in the ***. I had mine degreed by MMR when they assembled my longblock for me. I didn't want any part of that. Just wanted it done and done right. You'll need a solid lifter and a dial indicator and a degree wheel and training. Best to pay someone to do it right the first time.
 
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
it's that last bit that really bites you in the ***. I had mine degreed by MMR when they assembled my longblock for me. I didn't want any part of that. Just wanted it done and done right. You'll need a solid lifter and a dial indicator and a degree wheel and training. Best to pay someone to do it right the first time.
It sounds/looks a lot harder than it is. As long as you have th right tools and you read th directions it's not bad at all. Try doing a 4v motor; it takes about 4 hours if you know what you're doing.
 
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:23 PM
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got them installed, degreed and tuned yet?
 
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