what should my et be now?
#1
what should my et be now?
I have a 2004 GT and I Have a K&N air filter,took out the scilencer,put on flowmaster super 40,s and have 4.10 gears on the way. After I get my gears in what do you think this week what will it knock off the factory 1/4 mile times and speed?
#5
Great looking car first of all.
The mods that you have done so far really don't equate to a whole lot. The 4.10 gears will help you quite a bit with a sticky tire. Take some practice on your launches at the track. Street tires suck and you will soon want dragradials or some slicks. Good luck and happy racing.
OH btw....I would agree with the high 13's
The mods that you have done so far really don't equate to a whole lot. The 4.10 gears will help you quite a bit with a sticky tire. Take some practice on your launches at the track. Street tires suck and you will soon want dragradials or some slicks. Good luck and happy racing.
OH btw....I would agree with the high 13's
#6
You should be in the high 13s. Gears are not a miracle like everyone makes it seem, they can even hurt you if you don’t have much practice and spin too much. Some sticky tires and practice will make them come to life. May 04 Automatic GT ran a 14.04 @ 100.11 with 4.10s stock tires and a 2.19 60’ to give you an idea
#7
I am on board with everyone else. High 13's should be a good goal to shoot for with a 100 mph trap or so. One thing to keep in mind is your DA. Too often we talk about numbers w/o considering altitude and weather...two factors which make a huge difference when it comes to power and traction.
Case in point, my heavy-*** Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA.
Case in point, my heavy-*** Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA.
#8
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I am on board with everyone else. High 13's should be a good goal to shoot for with a 100 mph trap or so. One thing to keep in mind is your DA. Too often we talk about numbers w/o considering altitude and weather...two factors which make a huge difference when it comes to power and traction.
Case in point, my heavy-*** Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA.
Case in point, my heavy-*** Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA.
#19
Originally Posted by 281!!!
60 ft=2.12
1/4 mile et 13.87@99.29 :glasses10
1/4 mile et 13.87@99.29 :glasses10
i went 13.71@101 with a 1.89 60" on nittos with only off road h-pipe and mufflers and drag radials :jerk:
#20
Originally Posted by spike_africa
pretty good but your mph seems ow where are you located at?
i went 13.71@101 with a 1.89 60" on nittos with only off road h-pipe and mufflers and drag radials :jerk:
i went 13.71@101 with a 1.89 60" on nittos with only off road h-pipe and mufflers and drag radials :jerk:
#23
Originally Posted by Islander03GT
Burn-out's are useless unless you're running slicks/dr's.
even with street tires you nee dot clena them off with a small burnout to get all the crap off of them. but smoking the **** out of them is useless.
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