what should my et be now?
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I have a 2004 GT and I Have a K&N air filter,took out the scilencer,put on flowmaster super 40,s and have 4.10 gears on the way. After I get my gears in what do you think this week what will it knock off the factory 1/4 mile times and speed?
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18.00, if your lucky.
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When you put the gears in, you should be able to turn about a 13.6 with some practice.
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with stock tires i say 13.8 max thats with cutting 1.9 on stock tires it can be done but its hard. with a low 2.0 or 2.1 60" i bet 14.0 or 13.9
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Great looking car first of all.
The mods that you have done so far really don't equate to a whole lot. The 4.10 gears will help you quite a bit with a sticky tire. Take some practice on your launches at the track. Street tires suck and you will soon want dragradials or some slicks. Good luck and happy racing. OH btw....I would agree with the high 13's |
You should be in the high 13s. Gears are not a miracle like everyone makes it seem, they can even hurt you if you don’t have much practice and spin too much. Some sticky tires and practice will make them come to life. May 04 Automatic GT ran a 14.04 @ 100.11 with 4.10s stock tires and a 2.19 60’ to give you an idea
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I am on board with everyone else. High 13's should be a good goal to shoot for with a 100 mph trap or so. One thing to keep in mind is your DA. Too often we talk about numbers w/o considering altitude and weather...two factors which make a huge difference when it comes to power and traction.
Case in point, my heavy-ass Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA. |
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I am on board with everyone else. High 13's should be a good goal to shoot for with a 100 mph trap or so. One thing to keep in mind is your DA. Too often we talk about numbers w/o considering altitude and weather...two factors which make a huge difference when it comes to power and traction.
Case in point, my heavy-ass Vert runs a 14.2 with 4.10's, but corrected to a 13.7 (1000 ft altitude with some heat). I am hoping to break the 14 barrier at the same track this year, but that still may leave me with a 13.7 corrected. Better air helps with your raw data, but not when you adjust for DA. |
That is a good example. 2700 feet and it only corrects .5 seconds. Goes to show you how dry it must be out there too. You should see what some of the guys run in Co.
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Yep... california's high desert.... dry as hell
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I ran a 13.8 with stock gears and bolt ons with my 99 gt auto. :evil1:
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what bolt ons?
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
what bolt ons?
MAC PROCHAMBER AMERICAN THUNDER CAT BACK STEEDA UDP ACCUFAB 75MM TB AND PLENUM :blob3: |
what was your 60" and mph?
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
what was your 60" and mph?
1/4 mile et 13.87@99.29 :glasses10 |
Long tubes almost don't qualify as a bolt on... those are alot of work to get on!
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Originally Posted by Islander03GT
Long tubes almost don't qualify as a bolt on... those are alot of work to get on!
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get drag radials to take advantage of them!
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Originally Posted by 281!!!
60 ft=2.12
1/4 mile et 13.87@99.29 :glasses10 i went 13.71@101 with a 1.89 60" on nittos with only off road h-pipe and mufflers and drag radials :jerk: |
Originally Posted by spike_africa
pretty good but your mph seems ow where are you located at?
i went 13.71@101 with a 1.89 60" on nittos with only off road h-pipe and mufflers and drag radials :jerk: |
hmm, take out your spare/jack, lower your rear wheel tire pressure, Do a good burn out to heat the tires up, and shift hard and fast, I think mid-high 13s.
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Burn-out's are useless unless you're running slicks/dr's.
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Originally Posted by Islander03GT
Burn-out's are useless unless you're running slicks/dr's.
even with street tires you nee dot clena them off with a small burnout to get all the crap off of them. but smoking the piss out of them is useless. |
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