Yep... we've seen a bunch of posts lately about oil in the intake on OHC cars and I can't believe that 140 bucks is too much to never let that happen again. I posted a classified ad but with over 100 views nobody seems really enthusiastic.

So, to make it easier to own I'm dropping the price by 20 bucks. Yep, that's 120 shipped for a brand new oil/air separator system with steel braided lines (teflon core), AN fittings and a simple to empty oil catch that you just empty every 1000 miles or so. It filters down below 5 microns

If you guys can get together and find 5 dudes that want to get this, then I'll extend the 120 price to each of you. If not, it's back to 140 cuz I lose a little on them when you do them 1 at a time.

I'm not making a profit here... I'm just buying and assembling parts for you. Takes about 10 minutes to install.

 

Maybe you should explain the difference between yours and getting one from Jegs or Steeda for $50-$70.

 

Jegs? Didn't know they made one. But it's just a filter by the looks of it and needs to be plumbed to work. See below for risks with that.

You make a great point though so:

Steeda ripped off my old design which used plain rubber oil hose and they include a filter that's too small to allow proper filtration to last very long before it needs emptied (last check was about 300 miles before it failed to filter much at all). I found that after a few thousand miles the rubber hose could collapse from the negative pressure and nasty vapors and cease to flow at all, then it would develop a large hole at the collapse site and cause a massive vacuum leak or just pop a code for lean conditions on banks 1&2 (duh). There's no solution for that with standard rubber hoses or even reinforced rubber hoses. They just can't stand the negative pressure and oil and acid vapors for that long. My kit uses hoses that are made of teflon plastic which will never collapse and have braided steel jackets (real AN braided line... I use russel brand or aeromotive brand hose) and it also includes a filter that'll keep working for more than 1000 miles before you need to empty it (I have gone as far as 2000 but it gets pretty full).

What you get with my kit is a well engineered piece in its 3rd generation of design refinement that filters reliably forever. It's made from teflon core braided steel line and commodity filters so it's not complicated but the parts are top shelf and durable as hell. It's washable, but doesn't need to be washed with any regularity. It captures the filtered oil so you can dispose of it or add it back to your engine. And it looks positively BLINGIN.

Basically, I've found major flaws with other copycat designs out there and none of them look as good or last as long as mine. I also don't WANT any profit from mine. I'm selling them at the price it costs me in parts to build them and ship them. I make NOTHING on the deal just like it should be when homies hook up homies.

Other designs make comprimises for ease of installation. I don't. Mine are easy to install but you need to have some things in place already, like a tapped and threaded upper plenum (which I'll provide as a trade in for your stocker for an extra few bucks... basically I have a spare I'll tap for you so you can just do a plain swap and you send me back your stock plenum so I can do it for the next guy).

Here's the how it works bit if you're curious:
As the PCV side air (which is under high negative pressure) enters the filter it suddenly encounters a huge space and an accompanying large scale pressure change which causes the oil droplets in the air stream to begin to grow and then ram into one another and combine (just like rain). Once they combine to a large enough size they simply fall out of suspension and join the puddle in the reservoir. To up the stakes a little there's a 5 micron media filter that the air has to go through before getting out. Any oil that didn't fall out of the air is mechanically filtered out through the media and drips down to the reservior with the rest of it. So you have coalescent filtration and media filtration in one unit. The big difference is size. Bigger is better in filters but too big is just too big. I found the one that works best for our engine size and vacuum signal range. I also found it for 24 bucks retail, so no 40 dollar Jegs filters only to spend more money on lines and fittings and clamps. it's all there already.

I'm offering a better filter for those that won't comprimise quality for price.
If you know how to assemble AN fittings to braided line, I'll even just give you the shopping list of stuff you'll need to build it and let you do it yourself. Braided lines are something of a PITA though so I'm basically offering to help you all out by assembling them for you and shipping you a ready to bolt on kit.

Here are links to full size pics of how it looks:
Installed sitting in the designed location.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...SA400019-2.jpg

Close up of where it sits in my dirty *** engine compartment.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...SA400018-2.jpg

Overview of the filter, lines and fittings.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...SA400017-2.jpg

 

Thats just too much for that feature when I just payed $39 for one the other day

 

for the filter by itself?

 

Whats is this for? What nasty thing does this avoid? I've only had my 03 GT convertible for about 3 months. It has only 17k miles on it.

 

prevents oil in the intake. PCV systems on OHC cars will always cause oil to be sucked into your intake. that reduces octane in your fuel and is otherwise generally sub-optimal. You can run a more aggressive tune without pinging if you get the oil out of your intake air and if you run a wet nitrous kit then there's no reason to be without such a kit.

There is no minimum or maximum mileage to start using one but the earlier the better.

 

Nah got a cheapy off ebay and worked with it till I liked it.

 

Hey r3d, how long would it take to fab up one one these? How custom can we make this? I would like to mount the filter on the strut tower brace on the driver side and run the tubing around the back side of the motor.

 

r3dn3ck, you may want to copyright / patent this so Steeda or other companies don't try to copy your exact design and make profit off of your idea, just to cover your end so later they can't say you stole it from them, even though we all know you didn't as apparent by your knowledge of such things. You may also want to try and see if you can get the parts for assembly in bulk to reduce costs.

 

How about for a blower car?

 

Great to use on any set up. Especially nitrous.

 

Takes me about 2 hours to put it all together and get the thing boxed for shipping. I can make it as custom as you like. Running it from the driver side won't be a problem but I'll have to custom quote the extra charge for the extra braided line. Sorry but it's the 2nd most expensive single item. I can even fab up a bracket so it'll mount directly to the brace... or you can.

The point was that it not be able to be patented. I never wanted profit from it, I wanted to help my nitrous using boys out. I have server logs showing who downloaded my original design and copied it... but I don't care. It's public domain now so nobody can really profit off it much. The price drop for the GP was based on buying most things in bulk. I don't want to end up with 20 kits laying around so I'm only going to buy parts for orders that I have.

I have special designs for various blower kits but it's very much dependant on the kit. The difference is basically a couple check valves. Some blower kits do away with PCV (because they didn't want to deal with it I guess), others draw vacuum through a boost pipe (requires double filters for my kit), etc... I'll need exact specs on your blower kit, underhood pics and a couple days to custom design one for your blower and car. Really really really helpful on those cars though.

Thanks. Yep... that was the basis of the reason for designing the first one. Saw too many intakes popping cuz oil sludge and wet kits don't mix well so I hooked up a buddy and it kinda went from there.

 

So how should we go about this? Want me to take some measurements so you know about how much tubing is needed? I can even send a pic showing you about where I want it to go? Let me know. Thanks!

 

start by sending me a pic of your engine with the spot you want it to mount to. I'll figure the extra tubing and cost and let you know. Send the pic to cburnss at gmail dot com.

I can't see it being much extra since it's only 2-3 feet extra... maybe 10-20 bucks.

Also, let me know what options you want. Single filter, double filter, tapped plenum trade-in, etc..

You're only in sacto so if you want you can even come over to my place in Livermore and we can install it in my driveway. I'll cut the shipping cost to zero for you in that case.

 

Sounds good. You got mail.

 

killer. Anybody else? Now's your chance to make me build it for you. I'm about to order parts for bossman302

 

GP is over. Lack of interest. Price is up now to 150 shipped to make up for higher than expected parts cost and shipping.