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Blew engine at track

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  #31  
Old 04-24-2006, 06:55 PM
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yeah i want to do that, here are my plans if the engine isnt totaly blown or has to be rebuilt

Not blown
1. Fix problem
2. Replace with better parts
3. Install some blower/nitrous cams
4. MAybe new heads

Rebuild:
1. DSS short block 4.6 modular(400hp)2119.95 or pro modular (600hp)2889.95
2. blower/ nitrous cams
3. Reuse or buy used heads (too much for performance)
4. Higher shot of nitrous

How hard is it to do this myslef, i dont want to get raped with labor costs, time really isnt an issue because i will probably be getting a beater, and I will be getting help from my bro and GF's dad and neighbor and my uncle, so i think we would all be able to figure this out
either way my car will be better when its done, but im hoping for the first one
 
  #32  
Old 04-24-2006, 07:03 PM
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before you go buying much you really need to pull the motor or at least pull the head on the side the noise is coming from. Find out if you've done major damage or minor damage and go from there. If you're going to use this as a reason to upgrade to more performance oriented parts then do it right but don't over-do it. More power means more fuel, bigger injectors, tune, cams, etc... You can go broke fast.

And you'll need someone to build it that knows modular motors. They're best when handled just...so. Labor will double the cost in most cases.
 
  #34  
Old 04-24-2006, 08:10 PM
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Thanks Greg, part of the reason i want to do it myself , the other being money is that i know i will learn a lot, and as far as im concerned you can never stop learning, Not to mention it will be real fun
 
  #35  
Old 04-24-2006, 08:41 PM
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Torque specs and torque sequence are your friends.
 
  #36  
Old 04-24-2006, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron
Torque specs and torque sequence are your friends.
Where can you find those?
 
  #37  
Old 04-24-2006, 09:21 PM
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At my school we use All Data and Snap-On shop key. If you do decide on it I could get you the step by step print off.
 
  #38  
Old 04-24-2006, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron
At my school we use All Data and Snap-On shop key. If you do decide on it I could get you the step by step print off.
Awesome that would be great, thanks Ron, I will PM you if i decide to do this
 
  #39  
Old 04-25-2006, 10:24 AM
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I think you need to research DSS more before you decide to go with them. For example, http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=83648
 
  #40  
Old 04-25-2006, 10:25 AM
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damn you run better than i do with 1 less cylinder. :wallbash:
 
  #41  
Old 04-25-2006, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
I think you need to research DSS more before you decide to go with them. For example, http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=83648
I am not totally set on DSS, I will definately continue to research before i make my decision ( I dont want to regret my decision)
Here are my choices for now, not in order

1. Built short block from DSS, reuse everything else small block is 2119.95, labor 1500-2000
2. MPH street/strip long block, reuse intake and slap on some long tubes
3. Brand new stock long block 2300, reuse intake, put longtubes on
4. crate motor

I want this to be a street car, most likely a daily driver ( if i dont get another car before i get it fixed) i am looking to be around 300rwhp, nothing big and something to handle a blower or nitrous, so i guess option 3 is out of the question

What do all of you guys think i should do? please help
 
  #42  
Old 04-25-2006, 12:36 PM
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I bought the Pro Modular 4.6 three years ago. It has held up with my ProCharger P1SC. I think now they throw in the Main Support for a couple hundred bucks less than what I paid.


Originally Posted by The2000GT
yeah i was thinking about getting either their 4.6 modular or 4.6 pro modular and slap my heads on there if they are good and put some nice cams on there, if the cams are bad then i will just get some used ones or maybe some comp one if i have the money... then when that is all said and done throw a 150-200 shot of nitrous or put a KB on there!.....It will be nice when it is done, but i really wish this wasnt happening... i have no money, i would have to put it on the credit card, but oh well it will be a new car when it is done
wow i just found out that D.S.S is right by my house, No shipping for me!!!! yay i need to save all the money i can save
 
  #44  
Old 04-25-2006, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by steelawesome
I bought the Pro Modular 4.6 three years ago. It has held up with my ProCharger P1SC. I think now they throw in the Main Support for a couple hundred bucks less than what I paid.
What is the main support?? it is 359.95...
 
  #45  
Old 04-25-2006, 03:21 PM
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What about a Mach 1 motor? I wonder if the swap is easy or if there is a lot of extra work.
 
  #48  
Old 04-25-2006, 03:31 PM
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I tell you what, if it is fun, you can do it for me - LOL

If I can make this Mach 1 swap happen, that is what I am going to do I think. I am under serious time constraints. Not to mention, I want to drive the friggin thing. That is why I have it.
 
  #49  
Old 04-25-2006, 04:36 PM
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I am wondering if the mach1 is posible too, I want to do that also, the mach one is 3800 at Karkraft and and 99-01 cobra engine is 4200, the 2003 cobra engine is about 8,000 but i dont see it on there anymore, i am also considering the bullit engine
 
  #50  
Old 04-25-2006, 06:23 PM
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The Mach I motor is only $2900! Look again. The one with the shaker setup is $3800.
 
  #52  
Old 04-25-2006, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
The Mach I motor is only $2900! Look again. The one with the shaker setup is $3800.
Thats just for the long block, then you would have to get the intake maifold and headers, I am also thinking of this option but i am also looking at getting the 2v long block and swapping out the cams and putting longtubes on right away, But the mach1 looks real good since i have an automatic and its 305hp compared to 260
 
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