bleeding brakes-urgent!!!!
#1
bleeding brakes-urgent!!!!
iok i am about to go crazy, i just put new rotoras and brake pads on the front, and i also had to replace a caliper, is there some special way to bleed the breaks on mustangs? there is air in the line, i get it out and i still have no breaks, the calipers wont contract enough to actually stop the wheel, the wheel will stop but not very welll, and when i push the pedal down it feeels like i am putting my foot in a pile of mud,
please help i about to go insane!!
please help i about to go insane!!
#2
You sure you don't have a leak in the system?
I just did new rear calipers, all 4 rotors and new pads all the way around today as well. I spent a good amount of the day fighting with my rear calipers...Oh my god, it was nuts.
The first thing I would do is bleed out ALL of the calipers and go from there if the problem still persists.
I just did new rear calipers, all 4 rotors and new pads all the way around today as well. I spent a good amount of the day fighting with my rear calipers...Oh my god, it was nuts.
The first thing I would do is bleed out ALL of the calipers and go from there if the problem still persists.
#3
I know this sounds odd (and don't ask me how I know :wallbash: )...but are the front pads on right?
there is an inner and outer pad, and the alignment pins are spaced just enough different so if they're not on correctly the pads won't seat fully and it makes the pedal feel like crud...
there is an inner and outer pad, and the alignment pins are spaced just enough different so if they're not on correctly the pads won't seat fully and it makes the pedal feel like crud...
#5
First thing first, bleed the master cylinder. If you're a novice chances are you let it run dry while or shortly after you had the calipers off. Fill it up and carefully bleed it. This requires two guys and your pedal pusher has to be in sync with you. Once he's got that pedal held you just pop the bleeder, let some air and fluid squirt and retighten it quickly. Once you can do that and get only fluid from the MC bleeder, then go to the passenger rear brake and bleed that one. Then the driver rear brake. Don't screw that off, it's important. You can have air anywhere in the system at this point, so you're effectively changing your fluid now and you have to bleed the whole system.
Once you finish the back, bleed the passenger side front. Then bleed the driver side front. The whole time you need to keep careful eye on your brake fluid and don't let it get low. With a good buddy at the brake pedal you should be able to finish in 20-30 minutes easily.
Peece out.
Once you finish the back, bleed the passenger side front. Then bleed the driver side front. The whole time you need to keep careful eye on your brake fluid and don't let it get low. With a good buddy at the brake pedal you should be able to finish in 20-30 minutes easily.
Peece out.
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