Brakes brakes..
#1
Brakes brakes..
Upgraded my brake pads today to Hawk HP Pads, and i like them, better stopping and no more ******* SQUEELING. The only problem is, my brakes feel spongy now. I believe i need to bleed my brake lines, but ive read a bit and some people say its better to just change the brake fluid. Also i managed to strip a lug(i guess i put it on crooked, first time) while taking off my tire...super fun, i know i gotta take the rotor off for this, but is there any directions for this? Any info appreciated.
#2
Bleeding the brakes is not hard but it helps to have two people. I changed the lug on a eagle talon once and it was easy. if you have the book for your car it should say if you have to pull anything off. take the tire off and check it out. I have not done it on a stang before so i have no idea if it would be different but i doubt it would.
#7
1. Find another person.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.
To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.
To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
#8
1. Find another person.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.
To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.
To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
#10
you are dealing with way too much other **** to bother with the integrity of THE BRAKING SYSTEM ON YOUR CAR??
bleed. the. brakes. or. get. them. done. by. a. pro. if. you. have. to.
#13
I hate fooling with stripped lugs..
Is yours spinning inside the hub? If it is, don't put a nut on it or u'll have to do what I did, and If i didnt have 20's they couldnt have helped me out. Had to pull off the center caps and pull the entire hub off, to get back behind it to torch the back side of the stud off..
Basically, knock the old stud out, get a new one, knock it in, get an old lug nut that u wont use, and impact it on till the stud tightens up. That'll fix your stud problem.
Is yours spinning inside the hub? If it is, don't put a nut on it or u'll have to do what I did, and If i didnt have 20's they couldnt have helped me out. Had to pull off the center caps and pull the entire hub off, to get back behind it to torch the back side of the stud off..
Basically, knock the old stud out, get a new one, knock it in, get an old lug nut that u wont use, and impact it on till the stud tightens up. That'll fix your stud problem.
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