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Brakes brakes..

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2010 | 04:44 PM
Deathdiesel's Avatar
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Default Brakes brakes..

Upgraded my brake pads today to Hawk HP Pads, and i like them, better stopping and no more ******* SQUEELING. The only problem is, my brakes feel spongy now. I believe i need to bleed my brake lines, but ive read a bit and some people say its better to just change the brake fluid. Also i managed to strip a lug(i guess i put it on crooked, first time) while taking off my tire...super fun, i know i gotta take the rotor off for this, but is there any directions for this? Any info appreciated.
 
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Old 03-29-2010 | 05:07 PM
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Bleeding the brakes is not hard but it helps to have two people. I changed the lug on a eagle talon once and it was easy. if you have the book for your car it should say if you have to pull anything off. take the tire off and check it out. I have not done it on a stang before so i have no idea if it would be different but i doubt it would.
 
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Old 03-29-2010 | 05:27 PM
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yes you need to bleed the brakes. If you dont fully understand how to do it, find someone that does that can be there with you to assist.
 
  #4  
Old 03-29-2010 | 05:34 PM
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Yea..im one of the most tech savy people i know, so are there directions? Actually i guess ill look it up in a bit.
 
  #5  
Old 03-29-2010 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
Yea..im one of the most tech savy people i know, so are there directions? Actually i guess ill look it up in a bit.

You are tech savvy and you dont know how to bleed brakes? hmm.
 
  #6  
Old 03-30-2010 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by zigzagg321
You are tech savvy and you dont know how to bleed brakes? hmm.
Yes, i know.
 
  #7  
Old 03-31-2010 | 03:10 PM
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1. Find another person.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.

To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
 
  #8  
Old 03-31-2010 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bassman97
1. Find another person.
2. Person A pumps the brake pedal several times, building pressure in the line.
3. Person A holds the pedal down (applying constant pressure) while Person B cracks open the bleeder screw.
4. Once the fluid stops moving, Person B closes the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat until you see NO air bubbles.

To change the fluid, keep bleeding until you see clear fluid. Remember to start at the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder and make your way to the closest one.
this^ + make sure you have extra brake fluid to refill the master cylinder. Also, just in case, do not reuse the fluid that you drained
 
  #9  
Old 03-31-2010 | 05:37 PM
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Ive actually noticed they have firmed up a good bit recently, atm im dealing with way too much other **** for that. Thanks for the input though, ill look into when im bored.
 
  #10  
Old 03-31-2010 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
Ive actually noticed they have firmed up a good bit recently, atm im dealing with way too much other **** for that. Thanks for the input though, ill look into when im bored.

you are dealing with way too much other **** to bother with the integrity of THE BRAKING SYSTEM ON YOUR CAR??

bleed. the. brakes. or. get. them. done. by. a. pro. if. you. have. to.
 
  #11  
Old 03-31-2010 | 09:00 PM
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do NOT put off brake work, seriously
 
  #12  
Old 03-31-2010 | 09:04 PM
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Dont get me wrong, its not like its mushy anymore. Its firmed up allot, either that or i dont notice it anymore. Anyways how would air get in my lines if i never opened them?
 
  #13  
Old 03-31-2010 | 09:22 PM
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I hate fooling with stripped lugs..

Is yours spinning inside the hub? If it is, don't put a nut on it or u'll have to do what I did, and If i didnt have 20's they couldnt have helped me out. Had to pull off the center caps and pull the entire hub off, to get back behind it to torch the back side of the stud off..

Basically, knock the old stud out, get a new one, knock it in, get an old lug nut that u wont use, and impact it on till the stud tightens up. That'll fix your stud problem.
 
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