Rebuild 95 Mustang GT
#1
Rebuild 95 Mustang GT
I am just getting into cars.
This mustang has over 100k miles on it and I wanna beef it up and start going out to the tracks around me. I also would like it as maybe a weekend driver,. Definaltly not looking to make it a daily driver. The list below is what I have compiled over the last few monthes and plan on purchasing and just wondering if I'm making any mistakes. Thanks ahead of time for any help you guys can give me.
Racing Wheel Studs
Metco Motorsports Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms
Stage 4 Star Performance Clutch
Tremec TKO Five Speed Transmission
McCleod Steel Bell Housing
Steeda Dual Adjustable Clutch Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster/Heavy Duty Cable
BBC Shorty Powdercoat Headers
MAC High Flow Cats
MAC H Pipe w/o Cats
MAC Cat Back Exhaust
8 Point Roll Bar
Full Length Frame Connectors
Aeromitive Fuel System
50 LBS. Injectors
Be Cool All Aluminum Radiator
MSD Blaster Coil
MSD 6AL Ignition Control/with Dual Stage Rev Limiter
Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter
Battery Relocation Kit
A Pilar Dual Gauge Pod
also with
SCT Mustang 4-Bank Eliminator Chip w/ 3 Free Custom Tunes (88-04) and FMS 24# injectors
This mustang has over 100k miles on it and I wanna beef it up and start going out to the tracks around me. I also would like it as maybe a weekend driver,. Definaltly not looking to make it a daily driver. The list below is what I have compiled over the last few monthes and plan on purchasing and just wondering if I'm making any mistakes. Thanks ahead of time for any help you guys can give me.
Vortec T-Trim Supercharger
Power Pipe
K&N Air Filter
Pro M Mass Air Meter
75MM Mac Throttle Body
Holly Systemax Upper and Lower Intake w/Spacer
A - 4 Ford 4 Bolt Main Block
Steeda CAM for blower cars
347 Stroker Kit
1.09 17CC Dish Pistons 4.04 Forged Pistons
Forged Crank
H Beam Rods
High Volume Oil Pump
Balanced and Blueprinted
Moroso Seven Qt. Oil Pan
SBF 50 oz. Steel Harmonic Balancer
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads Ported to Match intake
3/8 Roller Rocker Arms 1.7 Ratio
Cromemoly Push Rods
Ford Motorsports 8.8 Detroit Locker Rear Differential
Moser 31 Spline Rear Axles with C Clip Eliminators
5-Point Racing Harness
410 GearPower Pipe
K&N Air Filter
Pro M Mass Air Meter
75MM Mac Throttle Body
Holly Systemax Upper and Lower Intake w/Spacer
A - 4 Ford 4 Bolt Main Block
Steeda CAM for blower cars
347 Stroker Kit
1.09 17CC Dish Pistons 4.04 Forged Pistons
Forged Crank
H Beam Rods
High Volume Oil Pump
Balanced and Blueprinted
Moroso Seven Qt. Oil Pan
SBF 50 oz. Steel Harmonic Balancer
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads Ported to Match intake
3/8 Roller Rocker Arms 1.7 Ratio
Cromemoly Push Rods
Ford Motorsports 8.8 Detroit Locker Rear Differential
Moser 31 Spline Rear Axles with C Clip Eliminators
5-Point Racing Harness
Racing Wheel Studs
Metco Motorsports Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms
Stage 4 Star Performance Clutch
Tremec TKO Five Speed Transmission
McCleod Steel Bell Housing
Steeda Dual Adjustable Clutch Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster/Heavy Duty Cable
BBC Shorty Powdercoat Headers
MAC High Flow Cats
MAC H Pipe w/o Cats
MAC Cat Back Exhaust
8 Point Roll Bar
Full Length Frame Connectors
Aeromitive Fuel System
50 LBS. Injectors
Be Cool All Aluminum Radiator
MSD Blaster Coil
MSD 6AL Ignition Control/with Dual Stage Rev Limiter
Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter
Battery Relocation Kit
A Pilar Dual Gauge Pod
also with
SCT Mustang 4-Bank Eliminator Chip w/ 3 Free Custom Tunes (88-04) and FMS 24# injectors
#2
Cams from Steeda would not be my first choice...just my opinion. I don't know who they deal through, but for your setup I'd look at Crower, Comp, or HiTech.
Secondly, shorty headers would not be my first choice. A nice set of longtubes will be much better, and offer more power up top for you. Plus the centri's tend to love LTs and the top-end power.
Lastly, is there a reason why you're going with a centri versus a turbo setup? The reason I ask is because generally a good turbo setup will produce much more power, as well as not having to worry about the lag of a centri (depending on if the turbo is ran in its efficiency range or not). Just wondering...
Secondly, shorty headers would not be my first choice. A nice set of longtubes will be much better, and offer more power up top for you. Plus the centri's tend to love LTs and the top-end power.
Lastly, is there a reason why you're going with a centri versus a turbo setup? The reason I ask is because generally a good turbo setup will produce much more power, as well as not having to worry about the lag of a centri (depending on if the turbo is ran in its efficiency range or not). Just wondering...
#3
How much money are we starting with and how long of a time frame to get this done? I am thinking a crate motor spec'ed out for the forced induction setup you want to run. Then everything else is a piece o cake.
http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php Give these guys a call
http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php Give these guys a call
Last edited by TUFF 4.6; 10-22-2010 at 05:06 PM.
#4
Cams from Steeda would not be my first choice...just my opinion. I don't know who they deal through, but for your setup I'd look at Crower, Comp, or HiTech.
Secondly, shorty headers would not be my first choice. A nice set of longtubes will be much better, and offer more power up top for you. Plus the centri's tend to love LTs and the top-end power.
Lastly, is there a reason why you're going with a centri versus a turbo setup? The reason I ask is because generally a good turbo setup will produce much more power, as well as not having to worry about the lag of a centri (depending on if the turbo is ran in its efficiency range or not). Just wondering...
Secondly, shorty headers would not be my first choice. A nice set of longtubes will be much better, and offer more power up top for you. Plus the centri's tend to love LTs and the top-end power.
Lastly, is there a reason why you're going with a centri versus a turbo setup? The reason I ask is because generally a good turbo setup will produce much more power, as well as not having to worry about the lag of a centri (depending on if the turbo is ran in its efficiency range or not). Just wondering...
How much money are we starting with and how long of a time frame to get this done? I am thinking a crate motor spec'ed out for the forced induction setup you want to run. Then everything else is a piece o cake.
http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php Give these guys a call
http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php Give these guys a call
#5
There's a lot of fail happening there in that list. Seriously, I know you're asking for help but I'm in full double face-palm right now.
Let's start by stopping and asking yourself that secret pair of questions that lead to successful projects: What the hell do you want from the car? How much money are you prepared to really shell out?
As soon as you give me a good pair of answers then I'll help you further.
Let's start by stopping and asking yourself that secret pair of questions that lead to successful projects: What the hell do you want from the car? How much money are you prepared to really shell out?
As soon as you give me a good pair of answers then I'll help you further.
#6
There's a lot of fail happening there in that list. Seriously, I know you're asking for help but I'm in full double face-palm right now.
Let's start by stopping and asking yourself that secret pair of questions that lead to successful projects: What the hell do you want from the car? How much money are you prepared to really shell out?
As soon as you give me a good pair of answers then I'll help you further.
Let's start by stopping and asking yourself that secret pair of questions that lead to successful projects: What the hell do you want from the car? How much money are you prepared to really shell out?
As soon as you give me a good pair of answers then I'll help you further.
Also, will all that you mentioned, you definitely would not go with free tunes cause all that money you just spent will go to waste once your engine blows up. And another thing, 24lb injectors will not be enough. I'm running 42lb injectors with my vortech setup on a stock block. Again, you'll need to figure out what your power goal is and budget before you start doing anything.
#7
first thing first, if you're doing a T trim you're going to need a stronger block. 500-ish rwhp from that blower and the motor will break in half. Some parts you have picked out too thoroughly and others that are entirely more important you've left out completely or not really understood what's needed to take the kind of power a big blower on a poked and stroked windsor makes.
First thing first, don't order any of those parts. All of those things come as assemblies that are much cheaper when purchased complete. If you're really serious about dropping 12-15 grand we can get you there.
First thing first, don't order any of those parts. All of those things come as assemblies that are much cheaper when purchased complete. If you're really serious about dropping 12-15 grand we can get you there.
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Bodyman23
5.0L Tech
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04-21-2005 11:10 AM