God Damn! That is a BIGASS CRT TV!!!!!!!!! Lol. Ive seen one of those once. You really dont normally see CRT over 36 inches.

I bet you could attach a chain to it and have a pretty respectable boat anchor. lol

 

No kiddin? Maybe i havent been tv shopping recently enough, but i cant remember ever seeing a single CRT projection that doesent suffer from Hot-Spotting, Some were worse than others of course, then again, i havent been TV shopping in years.

All in all there really is no certain TV that is the ultimate TV which will fit the bills for all occasions. Different TV's for different purposes.

If i end up building a home theater in the basement someday if i dont go with front projection which would be ideal i probably would go with a mammoth floor stander, just because i have room down there to house such a thing.

But up in my livingroom, no way. Forget it. Every time i go to somebodys house that has a big *** floor standing HDTV no matter where i look there it is. It is the first thing i notice and i cant seem to look anywhere without it being there. They just cannot seem to fade away or move into the background unless they are in a relativly large room, and houses up here with that size of livingroom are just rediculous in price. The one thing i dont want is something to conquer everything else in the livingroom. Down in the basement in a home theater on the other hand, hell, cant go wrong with that.

 

ill agree that LCD and plasma beat all rear projection in every single area but one, brightness. DLP is far brighter than plasma, but plasma is still bright enough.

also, he did say rear-projection not CRT direct view.

there might be studys that say one thing or the other, but my personal experience agrees that nothing beats Plasma and LCD except direct view CRT

 

Im sure this pic will take you back...


to your mid 40's. lol

 

Are you drunk? i am pretty sure i know what yer saying but you said it all wierd.

is this what you meant?

 

There are different ways to do this.

First way is to use a Y splitter and feed the information to both subwoofers from the .1 channel.

Another way is to run a composite from the pre-outs of the L/R on the back of the reciever (if equipped) and run the Left out to the Left sub and the Right out to the Right Sub, and then you have Stereo subwoofers.
Although, stereo subwoofers is pretty pointless, anything below 100hz is relativly omnidirectional and they really dont create a stereo image.

Even another way, some subwoofers have high level inputs, this means you run the speaker cable from the back of the reciever/amplifier to the binding post input on the back of the subwoofer, then out from the binding post output of the subwoofer out to each speaker. Basically splicing the subwoofer into the speaker cable, and the sub SHOULD use its internal amp.
That is another way of stereo subs.

To expand on the way above you could even run the sibwoofer output to the y splitter then in each subwoofer if it will run both inputs simultaneously. then you have stereo subs with the .1 channel also feeding into to them.

I have tried and messed around with ALL of those methods, but i found the one i use to work about the best and sounds the best.

My reciever does not power my front speakers. Instead i run a pre-out from the reciever into the 200wx2 denon amp that sits between the subs. That amp runs the front L/R speakers.
In the back of my reciever i use some Audioquest Y splitters on each L/R channel and feed the stereo signal into the back of my LEFT subwoofer, and i run the Subwoofer channeel to the RIGHT subwoofer.

So. Left subwoofer picks up and helps boost the lows on the main L/R channels, this isnt so beneficial in movies as it is in music and trust me it really helps. That way i get full range audio in stereo mode and dont even need the sub out.

When watching movies the LEFT sub does all the subwoofer info, and the RIGHT sub just adds SUB range capabilitys to the main speakers, so they do not really put out the same signal.

They only run 200w rms, peak out at 600 each. But what they lack in POWER they make up for in Quality which ends up giving them far more output with lower amplification.

My last rig had 3 subwoofers, one 250w built into each main tower speaker and a 500w stand along subwoofer, and the pair of subs i have now rock out easily as loud and with less effort.

they ****ing RULE!

lol

 

ill try to squeese this one out, then i think im about done with these boards.

Movies are far more dynamic than music, they get those incredible transient peaks, while music is normally so dynamically compressed that a whisper is the same volume as a scream.

check your reciever, see if you have any Dynamic Range Compression features and play with those. DRC is also called nightime mode. Other than that, your best bet may be to lower the volume on the sub a little bit before watching a movie.

some recievers will hold different EQ settings for the different imput selections. You might be able to go into DVD and turn down the bass in the reciever without turning down the bass in CD.

if not, best bet, just turn the subwoofer down to about 1/4 in movies.