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Tuning the mustang

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  #1  
Old 07-13-2009 | 07:12 AM
armyboy's Avatar
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From: K-Town, Germany
Default Tuning the mustang

So I've got my new intake, my tuner, and am trying to figure out how to optimize my car.

I currently have my settings at.

91 octane-here in germany they dont carry regular 87 gas on base..they have super 90 octane so i set it for 91

CL Cai for my C&L intake

Fuel economy setting for FUEL ECONOMY setting

My AFR is set to 2.0 leaner opposed to 0.0 stock

I am mostly concerned with my shift points and shift pressure..little things I don't understand as this is my first mustang.
It is an 09 automatic, v6 4.0
only mods are C&L Intake and new SLP powerflow exhaust.

Going to be replacing headers and going full H dual exhaust around october timeframe..
any advice on my tuning?
 
  #2  
Old 07-13-2009 | 08:28 AM
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The tune should already have the shift points raised and the line pressure turned up some. You can tweak them to whatever you like. If you want even firmer shifts then raise the line pressure. If you want it to shift at a higher mph then change it.
 
  #3  
Old 07-13-2009 | 09:05 AM
armyboy's Avatar
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From: K-Town, Germany
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What would be your suggestion on the fuel air ratio?

being that it is a base aftermarket intake, would it be too much to make it leaner than 2.0, say 4.0?

I plan to have a new hood and the air direcly routed through the scoop....of course this is not anytime too soon.

As always I am trying to do my best with the *cough* little experience I have, without doing damage to the vehicle.
 
  #4  
Old 07-13-2009 | 09:59 AM
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if you lean it out too much you'll get to take your motor home in small plastic baggies. Leave the stock AF alone, it's normally frighteningly lean in the low end and grossly rich in the top end, both of which are not good. Just applying a delta to the Lamda value without knowing what it means is motarded. AF is read as Lambda and that is converted to a ratio. The values you're talking about don't even make sense in the A/F ratio world. Lean that bad boy out 4 points and the bearings will turn to putty just before you ventilate the block.

Ram air is a joke and a marketing gimmick, not a performance mod. It doesn't work on fuel injected cars anyway. Don't bother, save your money.

My advice for you: put your car back to stock, learn about what you're doing before you frag your ****. Then have quality components professionally installed and tuned and for gawds sake get advice before you waste money on mods that make no sense. Stanger00 was in Germany last I knew, perhaps he can advise you on how to unfuck your situation closer to home before you blow something up.

EDIT: And 90 octane is NOT 91 octane. You need to make sure it's not pinging with that weak sauce or bump it up to the local 97 octane high test.
 
  #5  
Old 07-29-2009 | 09:52 PM
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Damn, your being a little hard on the guy. He's only asking to learn.
 
  #6  
Old 07-29-2009 | 10:58 PM
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The numbers on your tuner that you are describing (such as 2 and 4) are likely % numbers. In other words, setting it at 2 means you are leaning it up 2 percent more. If the a/f is currently at 13:1, increasing it 2% would change it to 13.26:1.

In reality, you could actually be costing yourself power. I would just stick with the mail-order tune. if you want to adjust shift points etc... no real worries there, but I would not mess with the tune itself. This is not something for a beginner. Don't loose sleep over it....just set it back.

Set the octane for the fuel you are running.
 
  #7  
Old 07-30-2009 | 08:20 AM
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sand: the priority is getting the car to a safe state. I don't want him hurt if he pops the motor while hot-rodding it because he was playing with the tune and not knowing what he's doing.

water, grazi. I really only ever see my handheld when I'm uploading a new tune to it.

You should be using an wideband O2 sensor and display while mucking with the AF anyway.

I'm sure the OP is pretty much past this point by now though.
 
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