Another Newbie
#1
04-27-2008 | 02:13 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Another Newbie
Hey wats up guy's, names Randy im 20, im from corpus christi texas, n i just got married too 
n i just bought a XCAL 3 from am.com(American Muscle.com) i was just wondering if anybody esle has one of these n wanted to ask wat is best settings for my mustang, right now i really just havent done anything with it except that i uploaded the the pre programmed wat it came with. Then after that i uploaded a custom tune, n only dropped my idle drive idle to 600 sumthing K, n the reverse idle to about the same
n i just bought a XCAL 3 from am.com(American Muscle.com) i was just wondering if anybody esle has one of these n wanted to ask wat is best settings for my mustang, right now i really just havent done anything with it except that i uploaded the the pre programmed wat it came with. Then after that i uploaded a custom tune, n only dropped my idle drive idle to 600 sumthing K, n the reverse idle to about the same
#4
04-27-2008 | 02:28 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
these are the User Adjustable Parameter i could miss with
Fuel Adjustment, Spark Adjustment, Axle Ratio Selection, MAF Meter Selection, Tire Size Selection, Fuel Injector Size Selection, Cooling Fan On/Off Temperture, Read/Clear OBD-II Trouble Codes, Disable Taction Control, Two Step On/Off RPM(I didnt get cuz i have an auto), Automatic Shift Control, Idle RPM
Fuel Adjustment, Spark Adjustment, Axle Ratio Selection, MAF Meter Selection, Tire Size Selection, Fuel Injector Size Selection, Cooling Fan On/Off Temperture, Read/Clear OBD-II Trouble Codes, Disable Taction Control, Two Step On/Off RPM(I didnt get cuz i have an auto), Automatic Shift Control, Idle RPM
#7
04-27-2008 | 03:03 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
this is how my engine looks right now, soryy for not showing all of it, it cuz i was taking a pic a the wires n coil pack
and the way my ride looks like, is on the signature
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmSrb7QHt60
this one is with a 3.3MP digital camera so the quality sucks n the sound, have a new 8.0MP dig camera, but have not done an exhaust clip with it cuz i have no time and this one was whenever i still had the cats
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSjLErNIgoM
and the way my ride looks like, is on the signature
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmSrb7QHt60
this one is with a 3.3MP digital camera so the quality sucks n the sound, have a new 8.0MP dig camera, but have not done an exhaust clip with it cuz i have no time and this one was whenever i still had the cats
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSjLErNIgoM
#8
04-27-2008 | 03:04 PM
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ok so do u recommend that i put the idle back on the pre programmed, cuz right now my idle is on about 600K
#9
04-27-2008 | 03:28 PM
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From: San Marcos, TX
the idle's not a big deal but whats the reasoning for changing it to .6k (600,000 would be an insane idle haha) stocks near 1k? never really payed attention to it unless its abnormally high. But see its things like that imagine if you really set your idle to something like 6k since 600k is impossible you for sure would have messed something up (the xcal probably doesn't even let you do something as severe as that but if it did that would be a major problem)
Last edited by Dave04Mustang; 04-27-2008 at 03:31 PM.
#10
04-27-2008 | 03:50 PM
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the idle's not a big deal but whats the reasoning for changing it to .6k (600,000 would be an insane idle haha) stocks near 1k? never really payed attention to it unless its abnormally high. But see its things like that imagine if you really set your idle to something like 6k since 600k is impossible you for sure would have messed something up (the xcal probably doesn't even let you do something as severe as that but if it did that would be a major problem)
#11
04-27-2008 | 03:57 PM
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Normal idle is supposed to be around 600 rpms anyway once warmed-up.
There really should be no reason to change any of the settings especially if you are not familiar with tuning. The nice thing about having a tuner is that you if you should buy a different thermastat, change your tire size, or swap gears, you can make the adjustments yourself w/o having to mail it back.
As far as anything that impacts spark timing or air/fuel ratio, I would leave those alone.
It's a bit strange to see someone buy one of these w/o understanding how they work first, I must admit. Guys usually research the hell out of something like this before spending $500 especially since you can ruin a motor in short order.
There really should be no reason to change any of the settings especially if you are not familiar with tuning. The nice thing about having a tuner is that you if you should buy a different thermastat, change your tire size, or swap gears, you can make the adjustments yourself w/o having to mail it back.
As far as anything that impacts spark timing or air/fuel ratio, I would leave those alone.
It's a bit strange to see someone buy one of these w/o understanding how they work first, I must admit. Guys usually research the hell out of something like this before spending $500 especially since you can ruin a motor in short order.
#13
04-27-2008 | 04:04 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
ok here r the adjust options
Global Spark - could move up or down from 0 degrees
Spark 0-2000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 2000-4000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 4000-8000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
WOT Air/Fuel - could only move up from 0.0% Richer
Rev Limit Drv - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm
Rev Limit Neu. - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm
Idle Speed Drv - could move it up or down but its at 556rpms right now
Idle Speed Neu - could move it up or down but its at 600rpms right now
Low Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 200 Degs F. right now
High Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 210 Degs F. right now
WOT Shift 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0mph
Shift Press 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
"And wat i mean by up or down is going from 0 to 1 or like 0 to -1"
OK GUYS SO WHICH ONE'S DO U THINK I SHOULD INCREASE OR DECREASE
Global Spark - could move up or down from 0 degrees
Spark 0-2000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 2000-4000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 4000-8000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
WOT Air/Fuel - could only move up from 0.0% Richer
Rev Limit Drv - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm
Rev Limit Neu. - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm
Idle Speed Drv - could move it up or down but its at 556rpms right now
Idle Speed Neu - could move it up or down but its at 600rpms right now
Low Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 200 Degs F. right now
High Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 210 Degs F. right now
WOT Shift 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0mph
Shift Press 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
"And wat i mean by up or down is going from 0 to 1 or like 0 to -1"
OK GUYS SO WHICH ONE'S DO U THINK I SHOULD INCREASE OR DECREASE
#14
04-27-2008 | 04:07 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Normal idle is supposed to be around 600 rpms anyway once warmed-up.
There really should be no reason to change any of the settings especially if you are not familiar with tuning. The nice thing about having a tuner is that you if you should buy a different thermastat, change your tire size, or swap gears, you can make the adjustments yourself w/o having to mail it back.
As far as anything that impacts spark timing or air/fuel ratio, I would leave those alone.
It's a bit strange to see someone buy one of these w/o understanding how they work first, I must admit. Guys usually research the hell out of something like this before spending $500 especially since you can ruin a motor in short order.
There really should be no reason to change any of the settings especially if you are not familiar with tuning. The nice thing about having a tuner is that you if you should buy a different thermastat, change your tire size, or swap gears, you can make the adjustments yourself w/o having to mail it back.
As far as anything that impacts spark timing or air/fuel ratio, I would leave those alone.
It's a bit strange to see someone buy one of these w/o understanding how they work first, I must admit. Guys usually research the hell out of something like this before spending $500 especially since you can ruin a motor in short order.
#15
04-27-2008 | 04:14 PM
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From: San Marcos, TX
what ever you told AM about your car is what they made those adjustments. Thats why these things cost so much money.. the tunes are done for you. You don't buy the thing and then start changing everything. All you have to do is install the tune and hopefully your running the correct octane that you told them to use
#16
04-27-2008 | 04:16 PM
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what ever you told AM about your car is what they made those adjustments. Thats why these things cost so much money.. the tunes are done for you. You don't buy the thing and then start changing everything. All you have to do is install the tune and hopefully your running the correct octane that you told them to use
#17
04-27-2008 | 08:30 PM
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ok here r the adjust options
Global Spark - could move up or down from 0 degrees Each of these next four settings should only be adjusted by someone that knows what they are doing. In theory adding, advacing spark or timing will make more power. BUT, if you advance too far, you will get knock and could ruin the motor. Most mail-order tunes such as what you have are pretty conservative which means one might get away with adding a degree, but I would not risk it. The amount of timing that is advanced depends mostly on the octane. Your tune is set is set for 91 octane. If you were to run 93, you could add more timing. How much? I am not sure. Perhaps 2 degrees. Also, Mustangs are designed to have different timing settings accross different rpm ranges. IF you should ever hear your car knock, pulling timing could be used to correct.
Spark 0-2000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 2000-4000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 4000-8000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
WOT Air/Fuel - could only move up from 0.0% Richer Again, I would not play with this unless your car was setup with a real a/f meter and you really knew what you were doing.
Rev Limit Drv - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm You can't spin the motor to 7,000 rpms or the motor will fly to pieces. This is a one safety valve setting to prevent you from dicking the motor if you miss a shift. 6200 should be tops.
Rev Limit Neu. - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000Same comments hold to this one, except, if it were me, I would probably lower the setting to about 5500. There is no sense in reving a motor this high when in N anyway.
Idle Speed Drv - could move it up or down but its at 556rpms right nowThere is really not much sense to making any changes to the idel speed. Going too low or too high has no advantage except to cause problems.
Idle Speed Neu - could move it up or down but its at 600rpms right now
Low Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 200 Degs F. right nowThese are good settings to change when changing thermastats. I would have mine set at 180F. This will help the motor run cooler.
High Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 210 Degs F. right now
WOT Shift 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0mph Leave these alone
WOT Shift 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0mph
Shift Press 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0 percent These are fun adjustments. This controlls how fast you want the transmission to shift. The tuner is already adjusted to make the car shift faster and harder.
Shift Press 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
"And wat i mean by up or down is going from 0 to 1 or like 0 to -1"
OK GUYS SO WHICH ONE'S DO U THINK I SHOULD INCREASE OR DECREASE
Global Spark - could move up or down from 0 degrees Each of these next four settings should only be adjusted by someone that knows what they are doing. In theory adding, advacing spark or timing will make more power. BUT, if you advance too far, you will get knock and could ruin the motor. Most mail-order tunes such as what you have are pretty conservative which means one might get away with adding a degree, but I would not risk it. The amount of timing that is advanced depends mostly on the octane. Your tune is set is set for 91 octane. If you were to run 93, you could add more timing. How much? I am not sure. Perhaps 2 degrees. Also, Mustangs are designed to have different timing settings accross different rpm ranges. IF you should ever hear your car knock, pulling timing could be used to correct.
Spark 0-2000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 2000-4000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
Spark 4000-8000 - could move only down from 0 degrees
WOT Air/Fuel - could only move up from 0.0% Richer Again, I would not play with this unless your car was setup with a real a/f meter and you really knew what you were doing.
Rev Limit Drv - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000rpm You can't spin the motor to 7,000 rpms or the motor will fly to pieces. This is a one safety valve setting to prevent you from dicking the motor if you miss a shift. 6200 should be tops.
Rev Limit Neu. - its at 6000rpms right now but i could change it up to 7000Same comments hold to this one, except, if it were me, I would probably lower the setting to about 5500. There is no sense in reving a motor this high when in N anyway.
Idle Speed Drv - could move it up or down but its at 556rpms right nowThere is really not much sense to making any changes to the idel speed. Going too low or too high has no advantage except to cause problems.
Idle Speed Neu - could move it up or down but its at 600rpms right now
Low Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 200 Degs F. right nowThese are good settings to change when changing thermastats. I would have mine set at 180F. This will help the motor run cooler.
High Speed Fan - could move it up or down but its at 210 Degs F. right now
WOT Shift 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0mph Leave these alone
WOT Shift 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0mph
WOT Shift 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0mph
Shift Press 1-2 - could move it up or down from 0 percent These are fun adjustments. This controlls how fast you want the transmission to shift. The tuner is already adjusted to make the car shift faster and harder.
Shift Press 2-3 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
Shift Press 3-4 - could move it up or down from 0 percent
"And wat i mean by up or down is going from 0 to 1 or like 0 to -1"
OK GUYS SO WHICH ONE'S DO U THINK I SHOULD INCREASE OR DECREASE
Look, I am glad you are asking these questions....much better to ask then to have a problem. See my comments above.
#18
04-27-2008 | 09:45 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Sometimes I think giving a tuner to a NOOBE is a bit like handing a condem to a 16 year old. They think they know what they are doing, but before you know it....
Look, I am glad you are asking these questions....much better to ask then to have a problem. See my comments above.
#19
04-27-2008 | 11:02 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,950
From: San Marcos, TX
ohhh you mean a condom
Last edited by Dave04Mustang; 04-27-2008 at 11:06 PM.
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