Spring time suspension work
#1
Spring time suspension work
Here's the dealio. I know little to none about suspension.
2003 Gt Vert Procharged 420rwhp/419rwtq.
The only thing done is suspension at this point is MM full length Sub frames. I do have SLP longtubes installed as well if that will effect anything.
I am looking to not only lower my car but also help with hooking up since I'll be heading for the track in the spring.
The car is not a daily driver, about 5,000 miles per year. So I basically am looking for a street, strip setup, maybe geared a little more towards the strip. I dont mind sacrifcing a little ride quality.
Can someone recommend specific products, options, and order of installation, what parts to start with etc...
I usually try to purchase the best product with price taking 2nd place.
2003 Gt Vert Procharged 420rwhp/419rwtq.
The only thing done is suspension at this point is MM full length Sub frames. I do have SLP longtubes installed as well if that will effect anything.
I am looking to not only lower my car but also help with hooking up since I'll be heading for the track in the spring.
The car is not a daily driver, about 5,000 miles per year. So I basically am looking for a street, strip setup, maybe geared a little more towards the strip. I dont mind sacrifcing a little ride quality.
Can someone recommend specific products, options, and order of installation, what parts to start with etc...
I usually try to purchase the best product with price taking 2nd place.
Last edited by Bwhipple; 01-03-2008 at 01:09 PM.
#2
Call up Maximum Motorsports and order their Launch Box or the Street and Strip box. The S&S box is a little simpler but the Launch box brings SICK traction with it. Torque arm setups like in the launch box are the absolute bomb. I love mine.
#4
suspension quality and differential durability have little to do with each other. If you plan on launching like you should launch then yeah... the extra grip will mean you should do welded axle tubes, stouter diff, and aftermarket axles. Other than that...naw. Just expect that more traction means more spinning stuff will be able to break if it ever was gunna.
#6
Took your advise. I'd rather drive my car home and not have it towed home. I don't think I'll be able hold myself back from lauching it.
Detroit TrueTrac and Moser 31 splines are on the way.
I am going to also get the street/strip box, but I've already got some of the components so I'm gonna order the rest as I can.
I already have installed H & R SS springs and full length subframes.
I am looking at the LCA's
Is it worth it getting the Adjustable ones ? Whats the advantage ?
Recommendation for UCA's?
I will be reinforcing the torque boxes at the time of the control arm installation as well.
A torque arm package to follow.
Any other suggestions as to the order of importance would be great.
Thanks !
Detroit TrueTrac and Moser 31 splines are on the way.
I am going to also get the street/strip box, but I've already got some of the components so I'm gonna order the rest as I can.
I already have installed H & R SS springs and full length subframes.
I am looking at the LCA's
Is it worth it getting the Adjustable ones ? Whats the advantage ?
Recommendation for UCA's?
I will be reinforcing the torque boxes at the time of the control arm installation as well.
A torque arm package to follow.
Any other suggestions as to the order of importance would be great.
Thanks !
#7
yes on adjustable lowers. You want to be able to tune how hard your car sits down in back and later on you may find a 28" tire gives you that little extra bit of 4th gear. Being able to drag it in the weeds or jack it up tall is nice.
FRPP or stock upper arms. Don't waste too much there, you'll remove them with the torque arm anyway. If you go tq arm make sure and get the heavy duty one.
FRPP or stock upper arms. Don't waste too much there, you'll remove them with the torque arm anyway. If you go tq arm make sure and get the heavy duty one.
#8
Mike
#9
R3d has the whole Max Grip box, and as far as I know, doesn't go to the dragstrip, at least he doesn't talk about it. He does do autocross. I just answered to give you a quick anwer, he can tell you the specifics.
Edit: Might be better to send him a PM
Edit: Might be better to send him a PM
#10
Thanks 01FR500! I see now what I think I missed in his reply:
"...the Launch box brings SICK traction with it. Torque arm setups like in the launch box are the absolute bomb. I love mine."
Looks like he is using the torque arm setups and not the launch box system as a whole.
I'm just looking for a setup that helps me launch hard, but not degrade the cornering any worse than the way my '98 GT corners stock. I don't care if the ride gets harsher or noisy. I guess that is the million dollar question, how to get max. hooking with great cornering?
Mike
"...the Launch box brings SICK traction with it. Torque arm setups like in the launch box are the absolute bomb. I love mine."
Looks like he is using the torque arm setups and not the launch box system as a whole.
I'm just looking for a setup that helps me launch hard, but not degrade the cornering any worse than the way my '98 GT corners stock. I don't care if the ride gets harsher or noisy. I guess that is the million dollar question, how to get max. hooking with great cornering?
Mike
Last edited by Depaja; 05-29-2008 at 10:03 AM.
#11
the TA will increase traction remarkably well but you'll have to use adjustable shocks and sway bars (and I'd go full coil over so you can quick change the springs) if you want to have the best of both worlds. Stock is about the best compromise (other than some minor specific things like bushings and shock valving) between handling and straight line for the money (but it does both only so-so). As you lower the car or add straight-line giddy up you're going to reduce the ability to corner as well or stick the launch depending on which way you go. Some guys, myself included get around that by removing sway bars and adjusting ride height and camber if there's a need to make a serious run down the strip.
The launch box with a well selected set of shocks and coil-overs will go a long way toward improving both aspects but it's still going to have a preference for either corners or christmas trees depending on which shock/strut and spring pack you get.
Call maximum, tell them what you told me, and let their experienced tech staff pick you out a set of springs and dampers to go with the TA/PHB setup.
The launch box with a well selected set of shocks and coil-overs will go a long way toward improving both aspects but it's still going to have a preference for either corners or christmas trees depending on which shock/strut and spring pack you get.
Call maximum, tell them what you told me, and let their experienced tech staff pick you out a set of springs and dampers to go with the TA/PHB setup.
#12
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/pr...p?pid=99011423
and add one of MM's rear grip packages that has a MM Panhard Bar and MM's Extreme Duty Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms. I think my goals for this project car are modest, to make a 12 sec. car that handles well on street tires like the Nitto NT555R. I really don't need to go hardcore one way or the other, but if I had to lean one way it would be toward making sure I had enough grip to get into the 12's.
Thanks again for all the info!
Mike
Last edited by Depaja; 05-29-2008 at 06:47 PM.
#13
Just in case someone else is following this thread I'll list what he thinks I need to make my car do what I want performance wise.
This is for my '98 GT coupe: Road & Track Box (RTB-4) plus he would recommend upgrading to the XD series lowers with spherical bearings at both ends (MMRLCA-30). He said that this option would increase the package price by $76.
Looks like I'll be saving my pennies for this setup! Thanks again R3dn3ck for the info and pointing me in the right direction!
Mike
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