I have had the blower on my car for about 25k miles and its been through about 6 belts. Its not an alignment issue its a driver issue with doing donuts and peddling the gas at high rpms.

I recently put a pulley on that wasnt exact fit...I put said pulley up against vortechs supplied pulley that was severly worn out. They appeared to be the same size. I was wrong and should have used a micrometer to determine this before I installed it. Since I put this pulley on and gave my car some loads the supercharger pulley which is 3.1" appears to have made contact with the replacement pulley and destroyed my belt. Brings me to today I found a metal idler pulley in some boxes but bearings are a little loose. There is a audible noise when I shake the pulley, sealed bearings shouldnt make this noise. I put it on my car just to get it out of the base shop till i can get new parts in. Well on initial startup everything is golden and a short 3 mile drive my car developes a new odd sound. Not its typical gear crunching sound.

Here are a couple videos one of the healthy freshly installed vortech and one from today after I put it back together.

from 2005:


Today:

 

I don't know whats wrong but that doesn't sound good.

 

good lord that sounds liek something is really wrong

 

Don't know man..but it may be time to send that headunit to vortech...

 

debating with myself on the direction to take with this problem...

Thank goodness for google!

I already found parts lists and numbers for a DIY rebuild. The DIY route will run me about 250 total and about 4-6 hours of my time if everything goes as planned! All of the precision parts are press to fit and i have access to a arbor press and hydraulic press to make life easier.


BUT



I also can have my blower upgraded with a V3 SI impellar which produces boost at a lower RPM flows 150 more CFM and is 6% more efficient over my V2 S-Trim all for about 700 bucks. This upgrade is almost equivelant to a T-Trim blower but has 50 less CFM...We all know the T-Trim doesnt start to shine till 16+ PSI...I'm your typical gear head and I plan to have a built motor in the future.

Decisions...Decisions

 

You have another car to drive right? I say while its down just send it to vortech for the upgrade...especially if you plan to build the motor down the road.

 

Yeah..this is my DD

 

it sounds like the bearing or bearings are lose running around in circles.

Edit: How did I miss spell "running" with "roung", wow seriously bed time. haha

 

Wow!!!! That doesn't sound good at all. It does sound like a bearing is bad or something.

 

sounds like you galled up the blower bearings. I'd have the thing upgraded. I know you well enough, you're going to do it anyway. Might as well get it out of the way and have added warranty time.

 

I say go for the rebuild as well. Might as well do it now since you plan on rebuilding the engine later. No point in doing things twice.

 

Just a quick thought, have you checked all of the other accessories, like alt.and idlers?

 

later today I will call vortech and see what they tell me. from what read online in other forums is that i will get a 6 month warranty for the rebuild...I'm unsure of a warranty on upgrade. I also dont think the condition my blower is in right now will get me the 1000 credit that vortech gives for trade in value. i would of used this toward a brand new head unit with a better warranty.

Today after work I will take the blower off again, 3rd time this week, to determine if any damage was done. I have heard bad bearings on alternators and this just doesnt sound like the high squeal those produce. Still a good thing to check. After i check the car accessories I will think about splitting the supercharger open and see if any metal shavings are in their...this another thing that concerns me.

rebuild is more price friendly but a PITD to accomplish...I'd rahter someone else do it.

 

Okay...Just got home from work and messing with the car. I Took the tension off of the belt and I spun the blower pulley easily it didnt drag anymore than usual. I moved onto my idler pulley's and found that the steel pulley that was a temp fix turned out to be the culprit...its actually rubbing against the vortechs gear casing...its a slight rub but enough to cause concern.

I'm relieved at the moment that I dont have to dish out 700 bucks to go ahead and upgrade...I can wait until the time is right.

So I'm going to call superchargersonline again and discuss the problem and hopefully they make it right...after all they did get the information correct on the invoice and just packaged the wrong pulley. My fault for putting it on my car and destroying a 50 dollar belt.

 

Try to make them pay for the belt. So is the pulley the one making the noise?

 

Yeah the steel pulley is rubbing against the vortech housing...

Upon further inspection of the 2 pulleys i found that they have the same part number and are manufactured by Dayco. ******* must of rediesigned. I think im going to have to add shims between my blower and timing cover to help with clearance.

I have my pulley's backwards according to vortechs instructions...but then they contradict later on in the install procedures.

 

Okay car is all put back together and I ended up finding the source of the problem on why my belt originally shredded with this new idler pulley. Back in June my intake cracked while I still in germany and i got a aluminum crossover upgrade PI from a german forum friend. I did the swap the next day and I didnt realize that i needed a new alternator bracket. I never ordered the part because i shipped the car a week later. Since i have no upper alternator support the belt pulls it down under load. My sure fire died so i couldnt look it over for cracks tonight.

So when my bumper pieces are ready for pick up I will be grabbing a new bracket as well.

 

I just realized that the instructions do contradict itself. Looking at the belt routing diagram, it shows the stock idler attached to the blower bracket between the blower pulley and altenator pulley. Then the vortech idler is where the stock idler was. But looking at page 15, they show a picture of the timing cover and they point to the location where the stock idler is suppose to go, but it says FACTORY SMOOTH IDLER LOCATION(REPLACE WITH THE SUPPLIED PLASTIC FLANGED SMOOTH IDLER)

I can see how its confusing cause it sound like ok the stock idler goes here, but then why is it saying replace with the supplied idler. I think I read over that several times.

 

I put it back together the way I had it originally. Car is running fine I just need that bracket...

The tune doesnt like a straight shot of air on the filter...I have surging at low rpms while cruising.

 

00Blkstanggt
2000 Mustang GT
Vortech V1 S-trim
330rwhp/341rwtq @ 5psi

00blkstanggt - turn up the boost!!!!

 

haha, I'm working on it. Thought my 3.33" pulley was going to be enough, but apparently not. Going with a 3.12", powerpipe, and retune in the next few months. Remember, my car also has 133,000 miles on it.

 

Miles don't mean ****. Miles don't make metal weaker.

 

Exactly. Do a compression test and that'll give you a good idea of whether you should put the boost to it. You should run at least 8 lbs, you are intercooled so you prob be even fine with 10 or more if you are feelin lucky.

 

I know, I was just saying. I was hoping to be at at least 8lbs. with my setup, but I was wrong. I'm hoping with the new pulley and powerpipe and I'll hit 8-10lbs.