So Im going to get the kit. I know I need a bottle heater and I had a couple questions.

First, does this kit come with a window switch or is this manual push button? If manual, how hard is it to install a window switch with this set up.

Also what other safety devices is out there?


Thanks!

 

That is sort of true....it does only spray at WOT, but there is no window switch. The system sprays so long as there is spark and your a/f is good. So, if you hit the rev limiter, the nitrous stops because sprak stops. Thus, no window switch, but you get the same benefits as having one.

 

You want a heater I had my tuner spray at 900, 1000, and 1100 psi and I can definitely tell you there is a difference....1150 seems to be just right

 

:banana: sounds like you need a kit that offers more accesories......like an NX kit!

 

cause NX is the only kit on the market right?

 

Well there is another one........its called NOS.

 

So if this sprays at WOT then isnt it bad to for it to spray while WOT in first gear and before 3,000 RPM's?

 

Its not good, but if you spray below 3000 rpms in first you most definatley wont hook up with the ground, i usually wait until after 3000 rpms, to hit wide open throttle, even when im going 40 mph and hit WOT i spin the tires, so when you spray make sure you turn the traction control off. And when you launch wait until your tires have hooked up to hit WOT

 

:clap: Thanks! So this definitely will be fun to try to hook up with the venom and 4.10's and goodyear 245/45/17's lol. I need to get some drag radials

 

No Prob.... I need to get some DR's too especially when I get the 410's in, cant wait though!! But make sure you get colder plugs and a nitrous tune before you run the 100 shot

 

Where is the traction control location? The only button I have with my 96 4R70W is the O/D on off and it shuts off at 80 mph? I have a diablo chip with the flip switch for the performance n/a tune and nitrous tune. I just need to get some colder plugs. I have one more question I just bought steeda wires, motorcraft plugs, motor craft fuel filter today and was wondering if I should return the stock plugs and get the colder plugs? Is it ok to run the colder plugs on daily n/a?

 

If you dont know where it is you probably dont have one, then you have nothing to worry about

 

I edited a couple things.

 

Yeah return the stock plugs and get the colder plugs, and gap them at .035 and they are fine for daily driving

 

I have a diablo flip chip that my tuner is has a performance tune on right now. My other question is if he installs the flip switch for the nitrous tune do I need to get a dyno nitrous tune everyone talks about? Also do you have to run 93 octane with it? Thanks

 

well If you ar only going to run a 750-100 shot then your diablo nitrous tune should be fine, but anything above that it would be in your best interrest to get a dyno tune, i have a sct nitrous tune (That i am still waiting on from MT) but i am going to stick with the 100 shot, no higher, and yes dont run anything less than 93 with nitorus or 91 with octane booster

 

Nope...you will be fine. The rpms go up so fast it won't matter anyway.

 

That is also a good point and very realistic. Whne launching, you will feather the clutch and then as you hook, you go WOT. At that point you are over 3,000 rpms anyway.

This si already a "smart" system, so you don't need all the other "acessories" that someonelse already mentioned. These people don't understand the Venom systems.

 

You really can not "dyno tune" a Venom system. They are self tuning. They monitor a/f and adjust accordingly, so getitng a dyno tune will do nothing. As long as you keep to the 100 jet, you should have no worries. This kit works just fine for these applications and is one of the greates advantages it has. Venom designes these kits to run on stock applications with stock tune. So, if you get a "dyno" tune for your chip, all you really need to do is just retard the timing a degree or two just to be safe. That coupled with colder plugs and you will just create a greater safety margin.

I would gap at more like 40 or 45. I think 35 is a bit tight for a conservative nitrous application and you may loose a few ponies when running n/a. The point of the smaller gap is to preven spark blow-out which is essentially the nitrous blowing out the spark and causing a missfire. So, if you sense a miss, then gap tighter. I ran mine on stock plugs and stock gap as well as colder plugs at tighter gap.

 

So your saying that with the Venom system, you can just spray whenever no matter what RPMs and it will be fine? How does the Venom system stop the nitrous when the car hits the rev limiter? I know it is supposed to cut the system off when it sees a lean condition.......but thats just after it sees it. There is a dangerous time inbetween when the car cuts fuel (rev limiter) and when the Venom system stops spraying. The venom wont stop spraying until the car is ALREADY running lean......Im not saying that it will blow your motor, but the kit is not that perfect.

 

Yup...nothing is perfect. But to understand how Venom's work you need to understand one basic fact:

"What is required when using a 300 shot is not necessarily needed with a 100 shot"

With smaller shots, there is a lot more room for error.

Secondly, these kits are designed for lightly modded street cars that also enjoy going to the strip on ocassion. They are not meant for seriously modded motors or for large volumes of nitrous. They are perfect for the user who is interested in a conservative, safe system that is also very cost effective.

Now to your questions....

You can generally spray at whatever rpm range you want and be fine...why? because the system monitors your a/f and adds fuel accordingly. This does not mean that you should spray in 5th gear at 2200 rpms for 30 seconds. You still need to have some brains when using nitrous and this holds true to ANY nitrous system. The system is not fool proof. I would not feel safe sticking my wife in the car and allowing her spray whenever she feels like it.

What happens when you hit the rev limiter? Spark and fuel get cut, right? The Venom monitors each individual pulse to each injector. When the signal gets dumped out, the computer picks this up and shuts-off the nitrous. I have forgotten to turn-off my traction control while spraying and it worked as designed.

This does NOT mean that you could or should spray while banging off the rev limiter no more then you can do this with a window switch. Also, with a dry system, hitting the rev limiter is not as big of a deal. A window switch is a must have with a wet system, but if you happen to spray with no spark and no fuel , who cares. Nothing will happen.

Now, on to your last question. Most nitrous systems are subject to momentary lean spikes and they rarely result in motor damage. I know this comment will cause debate, but I guarentee that nitrous caused motor damage is almost always the result of something else, such as back-fires, over-heating, or simply spraying too much. There is also evidence that going very lean, is better then going slightly lean. I will have to dig up this information, but I believe I found a study that shows that as you depart on the high-side of 14.7, temps actually begin to drop.

One thing to consider also is that I have never found one-single incident of a motor getting ruined using a Venom nitrous system on any mustang. I will buy you lunch if you can find one. And if you do, I bet that there is another factor such as someone making a custom jet and running too much juice, or extremely high milage motor.

I apploud your questions and I think it is good to be skeptical. Nothing is perfect and it is important to understand.

One last comment, tuners hate this system. Why? Two reasons. First, most tuners while smart, don't think out of the box. Second, they dont have control with these systems so that makes them uncomfortable, but that does not make them bad. I recently spoke to a very well-known tuner (I wont use his name) about this system as he knew that I had once used it. He stated that he would never tune a car with one, but also had no idea how it worked. How can someone make a comment like that, without sitting down and studying it? It is attitudes like this that has allowed the imports to "out technology" the domestics.

 

As the system is not perfect, here are the downsides:

1 - The system relies on a signal from the O2 sensor. This is prolly the biggest criticism of the unit. Bad O2 sensor, then poor a/f right?. Well, not exactly. If the O2 sensor is bad...it is bad. The car will nor more run right while n/a. Also, the venom tries to richen you up as much as possible. I am not 100% sure on this, but I belive the O2 sensors send a signal that varies from .1 to 1.0 volts. At the one end of the spectrum you are at an a/f of 10.5:1. This is wear I believe the venom tries to keep you, but I am not sure.

2 - What happens if an injector goes bad? If an injector is clogged, then no fuel and thus no combustion. The car would be running crappy anyway. But if the injector is partially clogged, you may have a problem and could ruin a cyclinder but running lean in that one cylinder and the O2 sensor would not know that. Again, I suppose this is possible, BUT I think that if you use copper plugs, the plugs should melt before the piston and you would hopefully loose spark. I am not 100% sure on this one either.

 

wow, nice info MT#1, i swear you should work for Venom, Now do you know anything about that venom 1000 wet system i showed you??? lol

 

LOL - I picked their brains for hours before I bought and installed this system.

I know nothing of the wet system. I need to find an owners manual and download it.

 

Thats good info!