nitrous battle
#1
03-20-2006, 10:59 AM
nitrous battle
spring is here and its just about time for the tarp to come off of the gt........this also means that my 4.10s are going in and my nitrous decisions must be made....with that said.... i want to know eveyones opinion {based on fact or ownership} of which system would be right for me and why.....ive never had nitrous and i am personally leaning towards the vcn 1000 venom......i will be running no more than a 100 shot....im kinda curious about the nx kit, but i hear its more powerfull and hazardous........i want to spend 600 bucks max and do the install {god help me} myself.........as much imput as possible would be appriciated.......thanx TRNIN
i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweight
i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweight
#3
03-20-2006, 11:07 AM
And also, with the nitrous bottle, do you physically have to open the bottle when you're about to use it??
#4
03-20-2006, 11:37 AM
Originally Posted by trnin
spring is here and its just about time for the tarp to come off of the gt........this also means that my 4.10s are going in and my nitrous decisions must be made....with that said.... i want to know eveyones opinion {based on fact or ownership} of which system would be right for me and why.....ive never had nitrous and i am personally leaning towards the vcn 1000 venom......i will be running no more than a 100 shot....im kinda curious about the nx kit, but i hear its more powerfull and hazardous........i want to spend 600 bucks max and do the install {god help me} myself.........as much imput as possible would be appriciated.......thanx TRNIN i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweight
i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweight
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
And also, with the nitrous bottle, do you physically have to open the bottle when you're about to use it??
#5
03-20-2006, 12:32 PM
get a basic wet efi kit and you will be fine with a 100shot. if you are really worried run a 75shot then. A basic wet kit doesnt really need all that stuff like a FPSS,heater, etc.... you can run just a basic kit and be fine. Sounds ot be like you should just get a kit like NX,NOS,Compucar etc.. and just do that with a 75 jetting and you will feel safe and have alot more extra power.
#6
03-20-2006, 01:11 PM
Lets say you get an NX Ford EFI kit and no Genx2 kit. First of all you wont have the bottle heater, gauge, purge, blow down tube, or fuel pressure safety switch. What will happen without these parts...
Bottle Heater- Your bottle wont get up to the proper pressure to spray a good full shot. This means you wont actually get a full 75 shot or 75 hp.
Gauge- How are you going to gauge your bottle pressure? Without this you wont know if your pressure is too high or too low.
Purge- This is similar to the bottle heater in that without this you wont be able to clear out the lines before you spray which could result in a ****ty hit. It also could mean left over nitrous in the lines which could leak into the engine which is never a good thing.
Blow Down Tube- Youll need this if you even want to use the nitrous at most tracks.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS)- This is probably the only thing you could do without. The problem with this is that when you spray the fuel pressure drops resulting in a lean spike. Once the fuel pressure gets below a certain PSI the FPSS will cut the nitrous off. So a lot of people turn down their FPSS to a lower PSI so it doesnt cut off the nitrous.
Youll also need a dyno tune, or at least make sure your a/f is safe. If you dont do this you could really screw up your motor and end up needing a new one. You can probably run stock timing with a 100 shot on 93 octane, however I would never spray a 100 or 75 shot without a full tune. Id consider a 50 as long as the a/f was good and the lean spike was under control.
Do it right, do it safe, or youll regret it.
Bottle Heater- Your bottle wont get up to the proper pressure to spray a good full shot. This means you wont actually get a full 75 shot or 75 hp.
Gauge- How are you going to gauge your bottle pressure? Without this you wont know if your pressure is too high or too low.
Purge- This is similar to the bottle heater in that without this you wont be able to clear out the lines before you spray which could result in a ****ty hit. It also could mean left over nitrous in the lines which could leak into the engine which is never a good thing.
Blow Down Tube- Youll need this if you even want to use the nitrous at most tracks.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS)- This is probably the only thing you could do without. The problem with this is that when you spray the fuel pressure drops resulting in a lean spike. Once the fuel pressure gets below a certain PSI the FPSS will cut the nitrous off. So a lot of people turn down their FPSS to a lower PSI so it doesnt cut off the nitrous.
Youll also need a dyno tune, or at least make sure your a/f is safe. If you dont do this you could really screw up your motor and end up needing a new one. You can probably run stock timing with a 100 shot on 93 octane, however I would never spray a 100 or 75 shot without a full tune. Id consider a 50 as long as the a/f was good and the lean spike was under control.
Do it right, do it safe, or youll regret it.
#7
03-20-2006, 01:24 PM
OK, yea, I'm really looking into this now. Im gonna have to do a LOT of research and will have to buy things seperately.
First off, I'm pretty much sold on NX because I can dyno tune for free and because I like what's offered and such.
What's the difference between the NX Plate and this basic NX kit, such as the one sold here on MT.
I WILL get everything thing I need, I never skimp out on things. Such things are...
1.) autometer lunar series fuel and nitrous pressure gauges
2.) bottle heater
3.) blowdown tube
4.) purge
5.) fuel pressure switch
6.) automatic bottle opener
anything else?
So, how many switches is this???? One for arming, one for bottle heater, one for purge, is there also one for the bottle opener and fuel pressure??????
Thats like 5 switches....
First off, I'm pretty much sold on NX because I can dyno tune for free and because I like what's offered and such.
What's the difference between the NX Plate and this basic NX kit, such as the one sold here on MT.
I WILL get everything thing I need, I never skimp out on things. Such things are...
1.) autometer lunar series fuel and nitrous pressure gauges
2.) bottle heater
3.) blowdown tube
4.) purge
5.) fuel pressure switch
6.) automatic bottle opener
anything else?
So, how many switches is this???? One for arming, one for bottle heater, one for purge, is there also one for the bottle opener and fuel pressure??????
Thats like 5 switches....
#8
03-20-2006, 01:25 PM
Please Just go NX. Its the only way to have a "REAL" nitrous kit other than NOS. Stay away from all these claims of what a kit is supposed to do in terms of altering the A/F ratio or cutting nitrous with computers. Its all a bunch of crap. "flame suit on"
If you ever get serious about using nitrous "and you will" then you will come to roadblocks if you buy Venom or Zex. Definately stay away from a "Dry"kit. They make less power and are more prone to leaning out the A/F ratio.
Also you will not find many accessories from Venom or Zex or other small nitrous companies. When you go to buy parts at the local dealer for them, they will always have to be ordered. NOS and NX parts are usually in stock. I have been though the whole...."oh yea im just gonna run a 100 shot..." Yea right!! NX measures theyre power at the wheels and theyre safer when setup right. A 100 shot from Zex will only put down 75 horses at the wheels. Usually the same goes for Venom. Also I know for a fact that the Zex kit is a piece of crap. I had one. All the parts are fragile soft aluminum and I broke a bunch of stuff. The purple is gay looking when everyone else has cool NX or NOS stuff.
NX is the only company that offers a "Plate" style kit. It uses a spray bar inbetween the intake manifolds to inject the nitrous. This is better for atomization and it makes for a fatter powerband. Other nozzle kits will have a hard initial hit but the power will taper off most of the time. The plate just pulls baby to the redline!
I know the Venom comes with SOME safety. All it really is is an inaccurate A/F switch....... Just buy an NX kit with a window switch, a fuel switch, and colder plugs. Thats all you need and its an even better combination in terms of safety because you have the window switch. I think everyone needs a window switch just because it makes the system so much safer and its ALOT of fun. Its more fun becasue the nitrous comes on so Automatically. Its like flooring it while N/A but when you hit 3000......weeeeeeee!!!!! Its very hard to setup a Venom kit with a window switch. You really do need one because you WILL bog the engine from a slow launch and spray while its bogging..... Everyone does it....
Forget all the crap just go with A reputable company like NOS or NX.
If you ever get serious about using nitrous "and you will" then you will come to roadblocks if you buy Venom or Zex. Definately stay away from a "Dry"kit. They make less power and are more prone to leaning out the A/F ratio.
Also you will not find many accessories from Venom or Zex or other small nitrous companies. When you go to buy parts at the local dealer for them, they will always have to be ordered. NOS and NX parts are usually in stock. I have been though the whole...."oh yea im just gonna run a 100 shot..." Yea right!! NX measures theyre power at the wheels and theyre safer when setup right. A 100 shot from Zex will only put down 75 horses at the wheels. Usually the same goes for Venom. Also I know for a fact that the Zex kit is a piece of crap. I had one. All the parts are fragile soft aluminum and I broke a bunch of stuff. The purple is gay looking when everyone else has cool NX or NOS stuff.
NX is the only company that offers a "Plate" style kit. It uses a spray bar inbetween the intake manifolds to inject the nitrous. This is better for atomization and it makes for a fatter powerband. Other nozzle kits will have a hard initial hit but the power will taper off most of the time. The plate just pulls baby to the redline!
I know the Venom comes with SOME safety. All it really is is an inaccurate A/F switch....... Just buy an NX kit with a window switch, a fuel switch, and colder plugs. Thats all you need and its an even better combination in terms of safety because you have the window switch. I think everyone needs a window switch just because it makes the system so much safer and its ALOT of fun. Its more fun becasue the nitrous comes on so Automatically. Its like flooring it while N/A but when you hit 3000......weeeeeeee!!!!! Its very hard to setup a Venom kit with a window switch. You really do need one because you WILL bog the engine from a slow launch and spray while its bogging..... Everyone does it....
Forget all the crap just go with A reputable company like NOS or NX.
#9
03-20-2006, 01:32 PM
You will only need 4 switches. Arming, Bottle, Purge, Opener.
What you need to buy in order to run a 100% safe nitrous kit. This is based on NX stuff and a 100 shot.
NX Ford EFI Kit or NX 2V Plate Kit- there are problems with the plate kit and the lean spike it produces, you might want to look into the EFI kit instead. Thats what I run.
NX Gen X2 Kit- This will include everything you need except for plugs, fuel pump, and window switch.
MSD Digital Window Switch (part # 8969)
Focus Fuel Pump- This is more of an option, it will help with the lean spike and I recommend it if you are running a 100 shot.
NGK TR6 Plugs- These are one step cooler plugs used for a 100 shot. Gap them at .035.
Now how do you install all of this? Ive got a full write up on my site, http://www.dndgarage.net/nxinstall.htm. The only change I need to make is that the header needs to be flipper around to its on the bottom of the bottle and not the top.
Dyno Tune- one of the most imporant steps. DO NOT skip out on this. Also make sure your tuner knows what he is doing.
What you need to buy in order to run a 100% safe nitrous kit. This is based on NX stuff and a 100 shot.
NX Ford EFI Kit or NX 2V Plate Kit- there are problems with the plate kit and the lean spike it produces, you might want to look into the EFI kit instead. Thats what I run.
NX Gen X2 Kit- This will include everything you need except for plugs, fuel pump, and window switch.
MSD Digital Window Switch (part # 8969)
Focus Fuel Pump- This is more of an option, it will help with the lean spike and I recommend it if you are running a 100 shot.
NGK TR6 Plugs- These are one step cooler plugs used for a 100 shot. Gap them at .035.
Now how do you install all of this? Ive got a full write up on my site, http://www.dndgarage.net/nxinstall.htm. The only change I need to make is that the header needs to be flipper around to its on the bottom of the bottle and not the top.
Dyno Tune- one of the most imporant steps. DO NOT skip out on this. Also make sure your tuner knows what he is doing.
#10
03-20-2006, 01:34 PM
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Lets say you get an NX Ford EFI kit and no Genx2 kit. First of all you wont have the bottle heater, gauge, purge, blow down tube, or fuel pressure safety switch. What will happen without these parts...
Bottle Heater- Your bottle wont get up to the proper pressure to spray a good full shot. This means you wont actually get a full 75 shot or 75 hp.
Gauge- How are you going to gauge your bottle pressure? Without this you wont know if your pressure is too high or too low.
Purge- This is similar to the bottle heater in that without this you wont be able to clear out the lines before you spray which could result in a ****ty hit. It also could mean left over nitrous in the lines which could leak into the engine which is never a good thing.
Blow Down Tube- Youll need this if you even want to use the nitrous at most tracks.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS)- This is probably the only thing you could do without. The problem with this is that when you spray the fuel pressure drops resulting in a lean spike. Once the fuel pressure gets below a certain PSI the FPSS will cut the nitrous off. So a lot of people turn down their FPSS to a lower PSI so it doesnt cut off the nitrous.
Youll also need a dyno tune, or at least make sure your a/f is safe. If you dont do this you could really screw up your motor and end up needing a new one. You can probably run stock timing with a 100 shot on 93 octane, however I would never spray a 100 or 75 shot without a full tune. Id consider a 50 as long as the a/f was good and the lean spike was under control.
Do it right, do it safe, or youll regret it.
Bottle Heater- Your bottle wont get up to the proper pressure to spray a good full shot. This means you wont actually get a full 75 shot or 75 hp.
Gauge- How are you going to gauge your bottle pressure? Without this you wont know if your pressure is too high or too low.
Purge- This is similar to the bottle heater in that without this you wont be able to clear out the lines before you spray which could result in a ****ty hit. It also could mean left over nitrous in the lines which could leak into the engine which is never a good thing.
Blow Down Tube- Youll need this if you even want to use the nitrous at most tracks.
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS)- This is probably the only thing you could do without. The problem with this is that when you spray the fuel pressure drops resulting in a lean spike. Once the fuel pressure gets below a certain PSI the FPSS will cut the nitrous off. So a lot of people turn down their FPSS to a lower PSI so it doesnt cut off the nitrous.
Youll also need a dyno tune, or at least make sure your a/f is safe. If you dont do this you could really screw up your motor and end up needing a new one. You can probably run stock timing with a 100 shot on 93 octane, however I would never spray a 100 or 75 shot without a full tune. Id consider a 50 as long as the a/f was good and the lean spike was under control.
Do it right, do it safe, or youll regret it.
#11
03-20-2006, 01:37 PM
Is this window switch like an actual switch or is it hardwired into the nitrous system. When you have the nitrous armed and ready, does it ALWAYS shoot at 3K RPM, or whatever rpm you have it set at? Or can you turn it off and then do it manually?
And that leads me to another question, if you DONT have a window switch, do you actually have to press a button or flip a switch to activate the nitrous when your racing?
You know what, a pic of the interior of some good set ups with all the switches etc. would be really helpful
And that leads me to another question, if you DONT have a window switch, do you actually have to press a button or flip a switch to activate the nitrous when your racing?
You know what, a pic of the interior of some good set ups with all the switches etc. would be really helpful
#12
03-20-2006, 01:42 PM
Originally Posted by trnin
spring is here and its just about time for the tarp to come off of the gt........this also means that my 4.10s are going in and my nitrous decisions must be made....with that said.... i want to know eveyones opinion {based on fact or ownership} of which system would be right for me and why.....ive never had nitrous and i am personally leaning towards the vcn 1000 venom......i will be running no more than a 100 shot....im kinda curious about the nx kit, but i hear its more powerfull and hazardous........i want to spend 600 bucks max and do the install {god help me} myself.........as much imput as possible would be appriciated.......thanx TRNIN i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweight
i want it safe as possible....no b.s. or "you should be ok"...it must be safe cuz im broke and i dont need a 4000 lb paperweightI like the venom kit though. It's a nice setup. If you want more options, build the kit yourself.
#13
03-20-2006, 01:48 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
Is this window switch like an actual switch or is it hardwired into the nitrous system. When you have the nitrous armed and ready, does it ALWAYS shoot at 3K RPM, or whatever rpm you have it set at? Or can you turn it off and then do it manually?
And that leads me to another question, if you DONT have a window switch, do you actually have to press a button or flip a switch to activate the nitrous when your racing?
You know what, a pic of the interior of some good set ups with all the switches etc. would be really helpful
And that leads me to another question, if you DONT have a window switch, do you actually have to press a button or flip a switch to activate the nitrous when your racing?
You know what, a pic of the interior of some good set ups with all the switches etc. would be really helpful
#14
03-20-2006, 01:54 PM
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
You will only need 4 switches. Arming, Bottle, Purge, Opener.
What you need to buy in order to run a 100% safe nitrous kit. This is based on NX stuff and a 100 shot.
NX Ford EFI Kit or NX 2V Plate Kit- there are problems with the plate kit and the lean spike it produces, you might want to look into the EFI kit instead. Thats what I run.
NX Gen X2 Kit- This will include everything you need except for plugs, fuel pump, and window switch.
MSD Digital Window Switch (part # 8969)
Focus Fuel Pump- This is more of an option, it will help with the lean spike and I recommend it if you are running a 100 shot.
NGK TR6 Plugs- These are one step cooler plugs used for a 100 shot. Gap them at .035.
Now how do you install all of this? Ive got a full write up on my site, http://www.dndgarage.net/nxinstall.htm. The only change I need to make is that the header needs to be flipper around to its on the bottom of the bottle and not the top.
Dyno Tune- one of the most imporant steps. DO NOT skip out on this. Also make sure your tuner knows what he is doing.
What you need to buy in order to run a 100% safe nitrous kit. This is based on NX stuff and a 100 shot.
NX Ford EFI Kit or NX 2V Plate Kit- there are problems with the plate kit and the lean spike it produces, you might want to look into the EFI kit instead. Thats what I run.
NX Gen X2 Kit- This will include everything you need except for plugs, fuel pump, and window switch.
MSD Digital Window Switch (part # 8969)
Focus Fuel Pump- This is more of an option, it will help with the lean spike and I recommend it if you are running a 100 shot.
NGK TR6 Plugs- These are one step cooler plugs used for a 100 shot. Gap them at .035.
Now how do you install all of this? Ive got a full write up on my site, http://www.dndgarage.net/nxinstall.htm. The only change I need to make is that the header needs to be flipper around to its on the bottom of the bottle and not the top.
Dyno Tune- one of the most imporant steps. DO NOT skip out on this. Also make sure your tuner knows what he is doing.
I also dont need to shift since I'm an auto.
This almost seems more trouble than its worth, lol
#15
03-20-2006, 02:00 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
The reason I dont want the nx gen 2 kit is i dont want that gauge, I need to get the autometer series gaues.
I also dont need to shift since I'm an auto.
This almost seems more trouble than its worth, lol
I also dont need to shift since I'm an auto.
This almost seems more trouble than its worth, lol
#16
03-20-2006, 02:06 PM
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Im auto too, but holding a button down for a certain amount of time, driving, and spraying a 100 shot off the line is way too much to do. Plus again Id rather have two hands on the wheel. Trust me youll regret it if you dont get a window switch. If you spray at the wrong time you will blow something. You could always sell the gauge. Nitrous isnt cheap and its not something you should just bolt on and go. Its a power adder just like a turbo or blower.
Like said, I def am getting autometer gauges to match the rest of the car, that will be in a podmounted on the center of the dash.
I like this a lot right here, but it sounds like I still need an opener switch.
http://www.mustangtuning.com/3poniswawapu.html
I will have it professionally installed for sure. My tuner/installer is less than 6 min from my house and are very reputable. Also has an inground dyno which I have free tunes on.
http://www.precision-autosports.com/
#17
03-20-2006, 02:11 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
O, no, I'm definately getting a window switch. I'm just trying to figure out where everything will go and get placed (as far as my interior).
Like said, I def am getting autometer gauges to match the rest of the car, that will be in a podmounted on the center of the dash.
I like this a lot right here, but it sounds like I still need an opener switch.
http://www.mustangtuning.com/3poniswawapu.html
I will have it professionally installed for sure. My tuner/installer is less than 6 min from my house and are very reputable. Also has an inground dyno which I have free tunes on.
http://www.precision-autosports.com/
Like said, I def am getting autometer gauges to match the rest of the car, that will be in a podmounted on the center of the dash.
I like this a lot right here, but it sounds like I still need an opener switch.
http://www.mustangtuning.com/3poniswawapu.html
I will have it professionally installed for sure. My tuner/installer is less than 6 min from my house and are very reputable. Also has an inground dyno which I have free tunes on.
http://www.precision-autosports.com/
#19
03-20-2006, 02:17 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
How much will all this cost? lol
1,500?
1,500?
#20
03-20-2006, 02:29 PM
I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for, so I don't mind. Hopefully I can get this done by the end of the summer or early fall.
I got a few cosmetic things I have to take care of first.
I got a few cosmetic things I have to take care of first.
#21
03-20-2006, 02:34 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for, so I don't mind. Hopefully I can get this done by the end of the summer or early fall.
I got a few cosmetic things I have to take care of first.
I got a few cosmetic things I have to take care of first.
#22
03-20-2006, 03:02 PM
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Im auto too, but holding a button down for a certain amount of time, driving, and spraying a 100 shot off the line is way too much to do. Plus again Id rather have two hands on the wheel. Trust me youll regret it if you dont get a window switch. If you spray at the wrong time you will blow something. You could always sell the gauge, plus itll probably be more expensive if you buy everything individually. Nitrous isnt cheap and its not something you should just bolt on and go. Its a power adder just like a turbo or blower.
#23
03-20-2006, 03:43 PM
IMO you should just go with the Venom 1000 kit if you want a basix kit, and a bottle heater, that is all you need for this kit, and its very easy to install, my second choice would be the NX kit. But if you want to know more about the Venom kit go here-https://mustangboards.com/power-adders/358-venom-nitrous-how-works.html you can learn everything you need to know about it here, and if you have any other questions just ask me or MT#1customer
#24
03-20-2006, 03:47 PM
Originally Posted by The2000GT
IMO you should just go with the Venom 1000 kit if you want a basix kit, and a bottle heater, that is all you need for this kit, and its very easy to install, my second choice would be the NX kit. But if you want to know more about the Venom kit go here-https://mustangboards.com/power-adders/358-venom-nitrous-how-works.html you can learn everything you need to know about it here, and if you have any other questions just ask me or MT#1customer
#25
03-20-2006, 03:58 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
lmao. noone reads my posts......
#26
03-20-2006, 04:05 PM
So how do you refill Venom kits?
Both performance shops that I go to both have NX refil stations. Can you refill the Venom bottle with that?
Both performance shops that I go to both have NX refil stations. Can you refill the Venom bottle with that?
#27
03-20-2006, 04:05 PM
Originally Posted by The2000GT
I read your posts, but i just don't see how you could say that the venom kit is not safe, and is not a reputible company, the venom kit is made for a completely stock GT so if all TRNIN wants is a basic yet safe kit and easy to install then he should go with the venom
#28
03-20-2006, 04:23 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
So how do you refill Venom kits?
Both performance shops that I go to both have NX refil stations. Can you refill the Venom bottle with that?
Both performance shops that I go to both have NX refil stations. Can you refill the Venom bottle with that?
#29
03-20-2006, 04:24 PM
Just another vote for NX here. I plan on running it very soon. I just have to get a job and save up after track season is over and I have summer off from school.
NX EFI Kit
Gen 2
remote bottle opener
Window Switch (also an auto here)
Dyno tune (flip switch chip or single tune I don't know just yet, probably will depend on how much cash I have at the time)
I'm going to be running a 75 shot. Should be good for low 14's (I'm a V6 4r70w) I can't wait
NX EFI Kit
Gen 2
remote bottle opener
Window Switch (also an auto here)
Dyno tune (flip switch chip or single tune I don't know just yet, probably will depend on how much cash I have at the time)
I'm going to be running a 75 shot. Should be good for low 14's (I'm a V6 4r70w) I can't wait
lol