25 ft lbs.... if i'm thinking strait tonite...

 

has any buddy else had a problem with the RR plates? the bolt holes for the coil overs are to far in and cant get the coil overs to fit... looks like im gunna have to grind away the old bolt holes on the intake to get them to fit... any buddy else had this problem?

 

Do you mean the coil packs?

 

ya

 

Had the same problem but I just pushed them down into the plug hole as far as I could. I didn't mess with trying to rig up a standoff or longer bolts and they've been ok for me. It would take alot for them to actually come back out.

 

I use standoffs on my mockups so far. I think they should be 9/16" tall.

 

did u guys use the stock headers? i already dropped my motor in without the headers. u think they will install with the motor already in?

 

that's gunna be a bitch. i bought myillwill's frpp shorties otherwise I was going to be on stock 4.6 manifolds.

 

they will but if you don't have a tubular k-member it will be a royal pain in the *ss...


i put the frpp shorties on in the car and it was fun with the passenger side top bolts...

 

i am going to start making 'dyno' adapters for the 4.6 3v to 5.4 3v tomorrow.

they will be made of fiberglass laminated wood. no good for long term useage but fine to test the intake for power. the wood 'plates' will go between the plastic main and the aluminum CMC/injector seat plates. no fuel will come into contact with the fiberglass.

 

Should be done by Fri and tuned by Sat

 

awesome...

gotta see some numbers on that beast

 

TORQUE!!!!

thats going to be a beast.

one question, can you see out of the windshield?

 

awesome! can't wait for numbers.

 

" life begins at 400ft lbs tq..."

 

anyone read the new mags with articles on 5.4 intakes and swaps?

 

Yeah... the MM&FF dyno trash. I already sent a letter to the editor asking them to poke at the 2v world and help the early adopters. Doubt we'll get even a tiny response.

What I did get from it was a bit of theory that was helpful but really... not that many peeps are doing 4v just because it's a bitch. 2v and 3v are going to be way more common just because they're fairly easy for the bulk of GT owners who drive 2v cars to start with.

 

is that a 2v or 4v?

 

2v all the way......

 

2V - 4 - NOW

 

That thing looks sick! I can't wait to see numbers also...

 

This may be a noob question but when I put my xe270ah's in do I have to somehow adjust valve lash?

 

No, since our lifters are hydraulic (since there's no way to do so), you don't need to adjust lash. You should check the timing but that's about it.

 

there are solid lash adjusters available if you feel like adjusting your valves periodically. They make a bit more power but you pay for it with maintenance.

 

I've seen a few articles about degreeing cams on a 4.6 and they say you need a solid lash adjuster. Why would you need this?

 

This is so you can get an accurate reading since the lifters take up some of the lift since they are just automatic lash adjusters. However, I'm sure you can get by w/o out one since being off a couple of degrees w/ off the shelf cams won't hurt anything as long as the specs on the cam card are close and no ptv happens. If you can degree OHV cams w/ hydraulic lifters, I'm sure the same can be said for Mod engines. However, this is my assumption, not fact.

 

I paid MMR to assemble my engine including degreeing my cams in. It's possible. Still takes a degree wheel but I don't know the procedure.

 

I'm still torn on how to go about a set-up that i'll be happy with.

N/A vs F/I, build costs

I want the best band for my buck, but i also want something that will be a beast.

Will mid-upper 400rwhp, maybe even low 500rwhp numbers be possible with moderate boost from a t-trim or d-1sc with stock PI heads and low compression?

Trying to get a good look into the cost of a blower vs ported heads/cams and the resulting power.

Prospective parts lists:

8.5:1-8.9:1 compression
forged internals
stock PI heads
mild blower cams
d-1sc/t-trim @ moderate boost

vs

10.5:1-11:1 compression
forged internals
ported heads
radical N/A cams

both most likely making use of the HPS intake if/when it comes out.

on paper, i see very little price difference. but will the blower pay for itself in satisfaction?

i just don't see hp/tq figures in the 300's satisfying me too much.

 

500's will be tough on stock heads but high 400's shouldn't be too hard. Boost pressure will have to be unreasonably high until you can open up the heads a bit.
Why not both? It'll take longer to make happen but it can be done and I think you'll be in love with the thing the whole way through the build.

Don't handicap yourself with such low compression. 9.4ish:1 is perfectly ok. You're staying low on the boost so dropping it so far isn't necessary. You can run 12lbs on that with an inexpensive intercooler and a good tune. Whatever power you want is there. Start with a set of NA cams with a wide LSA like comp 270's or even a real blower cam and ported heads if you want that kind of power. The NA power from that should be at minimum entertaining in the early 300's. After that slap the blower on and go nuts. 500rwhp is a BUNCH. You'll be able to see it easily with that kind of build if there's some opening up of the heads. Without... eh I think you'll find tuning to be fun as the boost climbs over 14psi.

[/QUOTE]
That's a nitrous motor. If you like the mega power but don't want to pay for the gas to feed it until it's time to smoke some tire, then this is your best option. NA it'll be pretty stout and despite what you may think, 350tq that early in the power band has a way of making it feel plenty fast. You could easily see mid 300's for hp and similar tq with that combo (in theory). Toss on a direct port nitrous kit and you can have whatever power your bottom half can put up with. This is the route I went. Longtubes go a long way to helping the whole flow situation.

All in all the blower will always have the edge on paper as you can dial up any power level you want with a pulley and fuel side upgrades. The NA motor can pretty rapidly ratchet up the power with bigger nitrous hits but nitrous comes on all sudden like and if you start hitting the switch when you have a tenuous hold on traction already you can find yourself hurting a motor or smoking the tires in an inopportune moment.

I prefer NA motors myself. FI just adds wear. That's why I started my mission to 5.4-ize my car.

 

thats why i'm doing every trick in the book for N/A. i want 400rwhp N/A before i do F/I