With a forged bottom end, TFS Heads and Stage 3.5 TFS Specific cams. Along with the rest of the bolt-ons and a HPS hardballr what would be a good redline or rev limit for my tuner?

 

DOHC intakes will bolt down with the back facing the front. This saves me so much trouble.

 

I need alternator relocation ideas! At least on my car!

Assume I fab a "B" series DOHC intake. I would want all the room I could get and maybe a front entrance into the intake. where as the alt. would be in the way. I have my intake idea drawn up on CAD and I am close to producing something. Anyone have any ideas? I have yet to tackle this and hope their is an easy swap so I could use the space.

And don't give me all this hoop-la about the "C" series heads being the best and how Sullivan makes the intake, why not go with that.....bla bla bla. I have 4 sets of DOHC "B" series heads(8heads) and most of them I got for free. Even if some one wanted to go this route, what it would cost for the Sullivan intake+ acc. and C heads, one can have a strong comparable set up.

Give me some ideas guys!

 

Sullivan makes an alternator relocation bracket. Required the use of an 03 cobra oil cooler and a super duty alternator. I think I might have to use that to make my intake fit the way I want to.

 

03-04 Cobra has the alt down and on the side. Maybe look at that setup and see how it is. Maybe that is like the setup they're referring to above??

 

That's sorta going to depend on your valve springs and retainer hardware. I would anticipate the power taking a nose dive after 6000rpm, so that would be your high shift point but as far as where to set the rev limiter, if you drag race have him set it for 7100 and you can powershift your way to a new tranny.

DON'T go banging it off the rev limiter anyway. That tends to have nasty cumulative effects. Sometimes they take a catastrophic turn. I don't like the way ford set up the handling of rev limiting. It's a fuel cut. AFAIK though it doesn't cut spark and I don't like that.

that's what it's sounding like. I'd like to put mine where the A/C compressor is.

Hey 1996, remember that thing I sent you the drawings of... anything ever come of that?



On my front, I got the red trim lines done last night and the clear coat and finished drilling and tapping the 3/8" NPT hole on the driver side rear for the coolant crossover. I'm thinking about running that up to the bung next to the thermostat housing instead of to the heater core. Thoughts?

I need an alternator pulley. First person that has one, please PM me paypal info. I'm not being picky. Even an underdrive... just need one.

 

I opted for the stage 3 race springs and titanium retainers from MHS because the car will at some point see boost.

So in other words tune it until it loses power between 6000 and 7100?

Fuel cut rev limiters i know are bad and i know the mustang has that.

 

Yeah... you've got it. Man I love it when folks completely understand the first time through.

 

anybody know if the upper radiator hose on a regular f150 and lightning are different? i thought they were different and the parts store says they are too. but this site shows them as the same

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/for...radiator-hose/

if they are not the same can anyone give me a link or part number so i can find one? thanks.

 

that's the lower hose in the link...

 

Hey all, I am loving my 5.4L swapped 2000 GT. I am curious though. What are the best bang for the buck mods in my situation.
I have a stock 2000 GT with 3.27 rear gears. I want to put 4.10s in the back, but have noticed that with my engine setup (BASICALLY as stock as you can get!) It runs out of steam in the higher RPM's. Is the 4.10 gear swap a bad idea until I address the lack of power up top?
I have a stock NPI block with stock PI heads, adapter plates and stock pi intake manifold/tb, stock manifolds with bassani X, spintech mufflers.
YES, probably the most mild 5.4 on the boards Im afraid.
So where do I start?
I wouldnt mind the work of putting cams into my pi heads, but is it a waste without p-n-p work?
Would an intake manifold upgrade do anything? (5.4 hardballr OR aftermarket 4.6 retaining my plates, I was leaning towards the edlebrock 4.6 FI version)
Ideas/suggestions on where to start tweaking would be appreciated!
Thanks

 

i would try to do pnp heads with the cams. lot of people are upgrading to the trickflows so it is easier to find a used set.

anybody have the right link for the upper hose? im having trouble finding it. a while back horspla said he got one for like 18 bucks.

 

summitracing.com has em.

Add the HPS intake manifold and you'll get a lot better top end without having to get very deep into it. It'll bolt up nice and easy too. After you do the intake, then cams are going to help open up the top end a bit. I'd stick with more aggressive cams, MHS stage 3-ish.

Numerically higher gears would be counter-productive.

The HPS is all the intake you want. Shorter runners are not going to help until you get much deeper into the motor with new heads and cams and headers.

 

i looked on summit earlier today...could not find it. only found the one for the na engine.

 

Hey guys! Thanks a million on the alternator relocation ideas I will check on the '03-'04 cobra set ups!

R3D
Sorry man! You know life has bit me good and has taken a toll on the family, but I still have those prints and most important, I have not forgotten. The stupid depression hump has got the best of me Overcoming some mole hills has turned into mountains. Here latly I feel I'm finally coming out.
It was just wendsday I was looking them over. I have no idea what I am looking at, but I do have #'s on paper. Perhaps some emailed pics of the locations where it goes. A good break down pic would be nice. A pic of all the little peices in their locations, but the main section missing. It helps me when machining and how close I need to be.

 

+1 with the stupid depression hump.....i know exactily how you feel.

 

How does that 03 cobra alternator setup work? I need to either run that or the Sullivan one to make my intake work like I want. I'm sure I'd be happy with either setup just looking at options.

Since you all helped red decide how to paint his intake, it's time to help me. My boss 260 upper is a little rough looking so it's getting fresh paint. Any suggestions?

 

sooooooooooo. havent posted here in a long time but, i ended up getting a little bit more than a 5.4 shortblock for $240. got all the timing components, timing cover, complete heads and oil pan. everything is definitely going to need to be machined including the block and the crank, they look nasty lol. no telling how long they have been sitting outside in the junk yard. but, for $240 i couldnt pass it up, really it was $200 but i knew a guy that was already there at the place and he picked it up for me and drove almost to my house so i gave him $40 for gas and miles. now decision time, 2v or 4v haha.

 

4v is a mess of headaches. If you can get lucky and find a used boss 260 intake like I did, it will help a lot. I still need to figure out if my stock gt fuel rail is going to flow enough fuel so I can get to making some brackets because I don't want to mess with with putting in a return style fuel system.

 

Hey all! Well got my new heads and cams finally! Put it all back together and ran into a snag...1st snag is the odd looking washer for the bolt that goes on the timing chain guide...Somehow after 2 years of sitting it grew legs and disappeared. Anyone have a extra one laying around? 2nd snag is the timing chain guide itself. It doesn't want to sit flush anymore. There is a hump on the head that prevents it from sitting flush.

 

No worries man. I'm not even trippin. Take care of bidness and we'll circle up when you're in a better spot. That's all pure recreation anyway.


It's a side mount. Down by where the power steering pump is IIRC.

Body color for trim/edging. Trim color of the car (interior) for the main coat. Seems to be a good general rule. White for the bottom. Epoxy enamel or ceramic enamel is best.

very little reason to go 4v if you don't mind TFS heads. If you want a stock headed car then 4v makes tons more power but is a bigger PITA. I'd still do 2v again, maybe 3v when we get a proper 5.4 3v intake.

Aftermarket rails would be where I'd go for you. You'll handle the power on your stock lines but it seems like a needless PITA. Grab up some aeromotive rails. If you want someone else to assemble all the fittings, then ping me and if you want, you can pay me for it, I'll order it and pre-assemble it for you and ship it to you so it'll bolt right up.

What heads, year, valve count etc...

pics please.

 

Red- It is a PI headed/cammed 2v...Will take pics tomorrow as it is pouring rain outside, and not feeling like going out in it..
Basically, the lower guide on the drivers side is not wanting to bolt up nicely. it is the part on the outside portion of the head that is getting in the way.

 

Hmm trim color? The car is silver. I do like the idea of the bottom white, it the top were to be a darker color to contrast it and I'd have to do something for my valve covers to match. I've got the upper stripped down to bare metal right now, it looks kinda good like that.

Where can I order those aeromotive fuel rails? I'll do the fab work myself, just have to figure out the best way to attach the rail to the bracket.

 

Here is how the intake sits currently.
48f984cd.jpg?t=1280093938


And I still don't know what to do for an adequate throttle body. I don't have one that will bolt up to it, obviously no mustang throttle body will work. Now if only I could find something aftermarket that would work because I don't even have all the pieces to the stock one and don't have what is required to make the electronic one work. This is going to be the biggest problem I've got.

 

i dont want to pay $2000 for tfs heads. ill just stick with stock heads, possibly port them. when it comes to compression ratio, what size dished piston do i want to get for a nitrous motor? i am planning on some forged i-beam rods and forged pistons (possibly just stock replacements), put it all back together and call it a day. any ideas on a good cam to go with as well for 150 shot?

 

I'm using flat tops and running nitrous. I've always heard that nitrous likes compression.

After a little research I found this intake made by an australian company that bolts to the boss 260 lower but allows the use of a twin blade t/b. Looks like I'm going to be having something shipped in from australia as soon as they get back to me.

 

Hey all,

First off great thread and it has some amazing info in it! New to MB and fairly new to the Mustang scene. I feel in love with Saleens back when I was little and after my tour to Afghanistan in 08 I bout a 2002 Mustang Saleen with only 8600 miles on it. I have been doing minor upgrades to it since then, but have been fairly limited due to the previous owner who put just about every imaginable bolt on on it.

I've been looking into the 5.4L swap for quite some time and haven't really been convinced, however this thread has done a good job of that! I'm currently in Iraq and will not be home till Nov. so I've got a good amount of time to find parts so I can have everything waiting for me when I get home. I have found a 5.4 long block out of a 2002 lightning with only 25000 for 1500 bucks. Is that a good deal or should I go with a regular 5.4 out of a f150 which I can get for as little as 4 or 500? I know that you guys have probably covered these questions a million times but I got page 15 of the thread and stopped retaining info. Will most of the bolt on I have swap over to the 5.4 or will I be starting from scratch. I already know that my long tube headers will have to be replaced and my saleen tune will need to be flashed but what else? I don't have unlimited funds but at the I have a decent amount to get a pretty decent setup. If you all could give me some advice and either post it on the site or PM me it would be greatly appriciated! Thanks again and I apologize if I'm making anyone repeat themselves!

 

That intake is looking good.

I don't think you need to be worrying this much about the upper though. We can probably set you up with an adapter plate for really cheap that will allow you to use a standard 70-75mm mustang single blade. If you want to pop for the full on cobra R top that'd be pretty kickass too. You could even get away with a little mod to that and upgrade to a single blade.

I still think you should focus on the upper you have though. I can't remember the name of the guy with all the boss parts from Australia but he'd be who I'd be talking to right now to solve that problem. If nothing else, gimme the spread between the bolts on your upper and I'll see what'd be up with someone making you an adapter plate. There are a few machinists among us. Not me but there are some.

You can run flat tops for a bit over 11:1 or down to 4.5cc dish for 10.5:1. I'd like to see you keep that compression up in any case. If you're going to put nitrous on it you might as well spend the extra 100 bucks and get a set of probe or mahle slugs. They tend to be on the inexpensive side as forged pistons go and pretty much most of us already use one of the two. You could leave the stock slugs in it with just a rod upgrade but I'm kinda a fan of just slightly over-building things so I'd pop for the pistons too. At least your bottom end will be relatively bullet resistant in case you decide to up the shot or you get a bad tank of gas.

We'll cut you some slack given your current situation.

Please tell me what kind of budget you have and what you want from the car.

In general, 1500 for a low mile lightning motor is a great deal and is appropriate if you're going to have a supercharger/turbo in place. If you want to go naturally aspirated or nitrous then you'll want a higher compression ratio but the lightning motor is STILL a good deal but will need pistons replaced to get the CR up.

All your bolt on bits except your headers will work. When you're ready to order your headers let us know and we'll get you in touch with Full Throttle. They're about a grand.

I'm assuming you do not have a supercharged saleen so follow me on this:
You'll need
8-bolt flywheel ($75-400 depends what you want)
HPS Hardball'R 5.4 intake manifold ($700)
FTP Long tube headers and midpipe (~$1000)
Misc. heater hose bits (10 bucks worth)
5.4 dipstick & tube (should come with motor) (30 bucks maybe)
Dyno Tune (~$200)
EGR blockoff plate ($10-30). Free if you make it yourself.

You should definitely plan on adding some hotter cams. The 5.4 really shows its stuff when you give it a good bit more duration. 230deg+ lends a respectably choppy idle and broadens the rev range up to something approaching what would be normal on a 4.6.

 

all right now that it seems there is a full swing on swaps going on i will go ahead and clean out my stash of swap parts. check tomarrow in the for sale section for a shitton of 5.4 parts that just might help out alot of you guys.....


as for the LT's, i spoke with tj on thursday and he is getting caught up faster then thought. so we might be seeing some fab work in a week or two, i'll see what i can wrangle up this week...

 

EGR blockoff plate ($10-30). Free if you make it yourself.

UPR has them for $7-8ish. Cheap enough to just buy one and not spend the time making it anyway.