Nice, I'm gonna talk to the shop I go to about possibly fabbing up a set. I'm gonna tell them I know of a shop that makes them and I just want to see if they can make a set for a better price. If I can pull it off for under a stack, I'll be really happy.

 

Jarry, This has been attempted before. Don't waste your time and effort and not to mention, $$. It won't happen. Just being realistic.

 

i say go for it. never know what they'll say. FTP is mostly a ls1/gm shop, i was suprised when he said he'd love to make them....

 

I agree on the long tubes! I want some too! BUT HEY! Here is a thought! Design the long tubes with a popular aftermarket K member. Stop trying to fit all that "tube-age" with the stock stuff. There just ain't no room! Besides, I'm sure the jigs to be used for the 2v heads will be very close for the 4v heads, opening up more market!

 

clearing stock k-members is critical to getting those headers to sell.

Nobody was interested in them when I was planning the headers around a MM k-member. As soon as I said they'd fit a stock k-member everyone and their brother said they wanted them. As far as I know, nobody has purchased a set yet.

 

Not meaning to change the subject ... but has anyone ever gone to Ford and asked if the factory 2000 Cobra - R engine mounts are still available?

Anyone check to see if the aftermarket has offered such model-specific mounts?

I read recently where the 2000 Cobra - R factory engine mounts for the 331 are made with a 1/2" drop as compared to the regular GT mounts for the 281 engine, yet the K-member for the GT and Cobra - R for that year are the same.

I'm just trying mostly to clarify what I have read in a magazine.

 

i tried at the dealership in birmingham and they said no dice.....

 

You can't haz cobra R' parts unless you own a cobra R, they're picky about that. Them's the breaks. It's one way of assuring that nobody goes and builds a complete replica and screws up the valuation from there having only ever been 300 real fully equipped 00' R's.

 

The shop I use is a mostly mustang shop that does a lot of exhaust work so they might be willing to give it a shot.
That's what I'm thinking, the owner likes me so he might be willing to help me out knowing what I've put into the swap thus far.
I've got a qa1 k-member so that should help with the clearance for the headers.

 

Here's a quick walk around of the car. I'm going to try and get over to Memphis next weekend for a dyno if Joe at Dynospeed has room for me.

I'll keep y'all posted when I get some numbers.

And I've only gotten into the throttle about half way till the tune is perfect and holy F, I think ima have to get some sticky tires asap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXNei...=youtube_gdata

 

Major awesome sauce there evil. Did an astounded slow-clap of pride for you.

 

Sounds like you did an awesome job. Motor looks like a factory option.

 

</drool> I love it!

 

Congrats mang! Wicked ride!! Major pant erection!!!

 

congrats man!!!!!!!

 

Dyno tune later today. Everybody wish me luck!

 

<scooby voice> good ruck raggy </scooby>

 

 

yea horspla. i wanna see them numbers!

 

Well, I have to fix a few things and go back next week. One of my oxygen sensors is flatlining at random. He also said by what he has seen so far, it looks like I will probably peg the MAF or come close. SO, I'm gonna gew a maFia MAF extender, replace both O2's and go back and hit it hard.

 

Horse: are you using a lightning maf? If not I have one for you cheap. It's a spare. Can ship today. Drilled for a methanol hit if you want, otherwise just tape over both sides.


Look what fedex dropped off. Already got a black base coat on it and the coolant crossover hole drilled. The top and sides are getting flat black enamel as a primer coat then I'll put the color coat and clear coat on. I'm trying to figure out the color scheme. Taking suggestions. Might do blue stripes down the tops of the runners with red pinstripes edging the blue. Thoughts?


I'm trying to have the car running by Sunday. I want to take it to the show at TPS.

 

r3d...however you decide to do it i know that bit of blue that you had on your eaton looked real good to me. seemed like it would go with the color of your car.

 

I'm thinking something like this:



Yes, it's crappy MS-Paint edit of a crappy cell phone pic but you get the idea. I'm still toying with the idea of putting some red highlights around the HPS and 5.4 Mod logos and making those blue topped as well. The bottom of the intake will be epoxy enamel white to reject block heat.

Anyway, I got several 4"x4" squares of the heat conducting goop that is used between computer processors and their heat sinks. I'm toying with the idea of a real "cold" air mod to my inlet pipe. See, I also have about 100 heat sinks from various processor cores. If I put that goop on the pipe and then clamp on some of those heat sinks they'll chill the inlet pipe a few degrees below ambient. Haven't decided if I'm gunna do that.

 

u could mod a peltier to the intake pipe run 12v to it.....

 

Horse: are you using a lightning maf? If not I have one for you cheap. It's a spare. Can ship today. Drilled for a methanol hit if you want, otherwise just tape over both sides.

I have an Ll MAF already. He said the counts were up there at a fairly low RPM and that it may peg once it's all said and done. I ordered a mafia earlier today. Got the O2's today at work and I'll get them in. Rescheduled for final dyno next week.

 

a heatsink cai......now thats something different haha how would u do it?

 

holy crapola' started reading from the beginning stages and decided after reading a whole 6 pages to see what everything looks like 4 years later lol. Now your talking about heatsink cai's ....I love it!
(we should just get them from bricked xbox360's and try it out) lol <---my way of sayin hi!
So quick story and intro- I blew my 4.6...im tired of it and it sucked anyways. Parts are to expensive and not easy to come across on craigslist...so I want to swap it for a 5.4. as i read in the beginning i will be able to swap most of my 4.6 stuff onto the 5.4, except intake was a big problem and headers and exhaust...Im wondering if that topic has been resolved? Thanks and I'm glad i found you guys...Your all doing a great job especially you mr R3d!

 

for 2v:
HPS intake
FTP long tubes or stock style shorties
FTP x pipe or have a stock pipe modified to fit shorties.

for 4v:
boss 260 or sullivan intake, depending on application

there are also companies that make intake adapters that bolt between the heads and the factory intake on 2v and 4v cars.

 

welcome to the machine. See below for the intake and exhaust questions. It's pretty straightforward now. If you're wanting to do it, call up HPS and get your intake while you can. He's only got a couple left and doesn't normally keep them in stock. He has them cast when there's enough people wanting them to sell a run so it's kinda sporadic. I think he may be having another run cast now but that takes a good long time.

True credit belongs to Dan Simons, Myillwillinc, Saleen S330 and HPS. Each of them was a key player in making sure this all became as easy as it is.

Look for a motor from 00-04 from a van, expedition/excursion or F-x50. Bolt in is pretty simple. Are you auto or manual? You'll probably need a new flywheel/flexplate. We'll help you figure out all that crap when the time is right though.

Damn, dude's getting all pimp hand with the Cliff's Notes. Well played.



Now, my turn:

I did most of the painting rough-in on my intake and mocked it up to see how it would look. I'm pretty happy overall. What'cha think:

Bottom, white to reject heat from the block and then the letters painted just cuz it looks cool and is TOTALLY pointless since it's invisible when on the car.


Top. Haven't put the red pin strip on yet. I need a thicker paint than the one I got. It's just not popping like I want it to on the test patch (not visible).


The whole thing with the fuel rails and tb/plenum and CAI mocked up.

 

Oh.... just a tip. To get my injectors in (yes, I lubed the o-rings first) I had to take a polishing wheel and a bit of jewelers white and open the injector holes by about .0003. Yes, it was that little of a difference between pinching the o-rings and it being a PERFECT fit. Had the same issue on the CPR fuel rails. I'm used to doing a little polishing work here and there.

The only other issue so far is a little interference between a fuel rail mounting post and the fuel rail itself. Not a huge deal, just ground off a little of the post.