tommy, repost specs. Working on dudes stage 3 cam now.

K - turbo cam dyno sim: 15hp better than a comp xe270ah-13. >20deg overlap. A little weak below 3000rpm but still stronger than a 4.6. It's a good cam no matter what. Add a turbo and the top end goes nuts but there doesn't look to be a lot of lag if you pick a good turbo for the app like a t3/t4 hybrid.

That's the most aggressive cam I've seen so far.

 

Specs:
Cam motion grind # 101E-101I-16
intake:
lobe lift .30795
valve lift .57279
duration @ .050 230
centerline 111.9

Exhaust:
lobe lift .28315
valve lift .52666
duration @ .050 220.8
centerline 119.9

Thats all the important info and its specs for stock ratio followers. BTW valve overlap is -7.

 

that grind came out worse than any other I've tried. 100hp below a xe270. Good mid range but it's totally crap on the top and bottom. The centerlines are all fucked up. If I re-timed it a bit those duration figures should be able to give a lot more bump. Right now I'm running the pro-iterator test to find the best cam timing within 4deg of what you spec'd. So far I'm up 70hp. Specs will be posted.

 

k... here's what DD says to try: 242/235 .550/.550 ICA 110 ECA 111.5 LSA 110.8

runs HARD to 6000, acts like it's going to lean over a hair then peaks out at 6500. This cam in simulation made 550bhp on stock heads at 8psi turbo supplied boost.

The same sim with an XE270 instead leans over 1000rpm earlier and makes 50 less hp.

 

which cams are those sims?

 

the bad one is the pro-motion cam you spec'd. The other is a profile put together by desktop dyno. You'd have to find a company to grind it for you. Comp and Cushman and hiTech come to mind for that service.

 

I got mine from fox lake and I think they subbed it out to bullet cams.

 

the pro motion cams are already ground. but how would these do over the comp stage 3 278's on my rear mount twin 57mm's?

 

I want to thank Myillwillinc for all his help getting my setup back on track....

 

They're more than 100hp less than the 278's. It's an interesting note that I had to give it 116.2 LSA to achieve -7 overlap. When I tinkered and set the LSA to 108 giving it 7 degrees of positive overlap it came to life and tied the 278's peak. The 278 still had it cold whipped in midrange though and smoothed out the curve. I'd keep the 278's in it if I were to go by DD results.

 

Any thoughts or feelings on the ones i put up red??

 

top post on this page. Looks like a decent one as far as simulation goes. Real world tends to be a little different but it's a good indicator that DD liked it.

 

I haven't been around much lately, but figured I'd check in. I finally dropped the 3v in my truck but its been a PITA every step of the way. It starts and runs fine right now, but won't rev over about 2500 rpm, just flat falls on its face. The whole thing is getting incredibly frustrating, at this point I wish I had just lined up a fresh 2v to drop in. Gonna go compare the cam position sensor trigger location between the 2v and 3v, I think there might be a small difference. Thats all I can think of right now, I'm all out of ideas....

 

NICE! Thanks for the sim man. The car will stay NA for now but knowing the turbo will really wake it up helps!

Also, the t3/t4 will be able to feed the 5.4 ok? Excuse my turbo ignorance please.

 

5.0's have used those hybrid turbos in single compressor setups to great effect for years. They have a pretty good size cold side and a more modestly sized hot side so they spool relatively fast and flow like hell. You'll want to talk to your turbo vendor to get the correct wheel sizing and housing ratios.

Dan glad to see you bak in the saddle. Keep whippin on it. If at all possible I'd use the reluctor wheels from the 2v. Call up logan motorsports, they did a member's 3v conversion on his new edge. I know it can work.

 

even for twin turbo you'd keep the 278's? odd, i figured they would be open to long for the turbo to like them.

 

im going to be running the stage 3 blower cams from modular head shop,im not sure on the specs but nick said they are badass they are made by bullet racing cams though

 

EDIT: DD turbo results are freaky and not consistent with established doctrine about turbo motors especially as it has to do with cams. I'm not going to trust DD for turbo stuff anymore.

 

Hey guys, dude over at corral needs plates or an intake. Here's a chance to sell one if you got one:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...92#post9411592

 

I looked it over carefully yesterday and found about 15 degrees of difference between the 2v and 3v trigger wheels, the 3v gets there sooner in relation to TDC. The 2v trigger is cast into the gear so there's no way to swap, I'll have to reposition the trigger on the 3v. I've got a code P0340 which is cam position sensor, so the problem is somewhere in that system.

 

ohhhhh duh, stupid me. You're using stock cams huh. You'd need affamarket cams, phaser kit and gears. Icky expensive. THere's also: http://www.loganmotorsports.com/2V_t...onversion.html that route. Cheaper.

 

That Logan kit doesn't adress the phasers, but I did use those exhaust adapters. For the gears you'd need...

http://www.paschalperformance.com/3Valve.php

$400. Ouch. I used lockouts from Livernois, they take care of the VCT but I hadn't seen anywhere that the sensor timing was different. Check the picture here...

http://www.sbassen.com/pics/Vehicles...ntitled-09.jpg

Its hard to see in the picture, but down where the bolt head would cover the trigger wheel is held in position by three little roll pins. I can remove them, reposition the wheel where I need it, then the cam bolt will hold it in place when tightened. I have the 2 valve on a stand so I can use it to reference position compared to TDC on the balancer. I also need to double check my solder joints as I had to extend the plug from driver's side to passenger side, but I want to get that timing fixed either way.

 

hey guys if anyone has an HPS 5.4 intake they are willing to part with I am willing to pay top $$ so I can finish my motor...I can paypal immediately

 

your lucky day. i have hunters in my shop. has the coolant crossover done and ports are smothed and cleaned up. powdercoated black for your pleasure. pm and we'll go from there.

 

Your my hero!!! PMin you now!

 

if any of you guys run up on a roush/alcon 14" rotor front drivers side please let me know!!!! roush had them on sale for 172.00 ,the cheapest i have seen one for is like 360.00 ,that all i need to finish my brakes thanks guys

 

guys... I have two options. I need to pay off all my debts so my wife will let me have a 2011 Boss. I also just bought a new fast car and haven't driven the stang 500 miles in the last 2 1/2 years. It's time to make a decision.

1. selling the stang. See my thread in the for sale section.

If any of you are interested, LMK. I'm still in the scene but I want a stang that's legal to drive or at least has the appearance of it. That and the 2010-2011 bodies are ******' sick lookin'.

2. Sell the supercharger kit, buy another HPS intake and keep the stang, barring myself the chance at a 2011 Boss and lagging out my retirement a few years. But I'll have the beast and still likely never drive it. **** end of this stick is the blower kit with the methanol kit and intercooler setup and fuel rails and injectors and fuel pump all that **** is worth maybe 1700 as a whole bolt-in kit. Drop 1000 back into it to get an HPS intake and TB, plenum, injectors and fuel rails and still have to deal with mission impossible smog every 2 years. Net out of that is maybe 700 bucks which doesn't go far compared to >10K.

So, the Beast is for sale. Contact me if you're seriously interested.

Dan, if you're still up for that deal we talked about that one time, gimme a shout.

 

I know this isn't an easy thing to do, but you really need to come up with a bit more of a long-term plan... If you don't drive the Mustang, why keep pouring money into it? You know you won't get back but a fraction of the investment. I don't know what the other "fast car" is (I've been away for a while if it was posted, haven't read back), but if you just bought that did you not know you wanted a Boss at that time? Wouldn't the Boss replace that car? If you get a new Mustang you'll need mod money for that, you know damn well you aren't gonna leave it alone.... It kind of comes down to how much are you willing to lose on your current car? I think you have it priced just fine, so is it worth selling?

BTW I envy your dilemna....deciding between 3 cool cars.....the 3V I put in my truck spun a bearing in the first few miles and its my daily driver.... In other words, **** you and your "problems"....

 

the old commuter car I had couldn't pass smog and thence couldn't be registered. Since the reg was already past and I put a lot of time and money into attempting to get it to pass (ECU shows some systems not ready forever despite repairs, probably a wiring issue at this point). At some point I had to cut my losses and get a car that was legal to drive. I got a 09 cobalt sedan ss. It's fast and fun and already has all the things done to it from the factory that I would have done down to the battery being in the trunk.

I've only been putting money into it as far as needed to get it running after the admittedly silly decision to supercharge it. Prior to that it was fun and I drove it periodically but it's not smog legal and was mostly just a toy to **** away some cash on and divert me from the tv on the weekends. Nonetheless it's an asset that I can liquidate to pay off high interest debt and free up gobs of money monthly. I can save some of that towards the 2011 boss and pay cash or mostly cash for it when that time comes. The mustang is paid off and the new car is at 0%. I am acting long term... it just looks confusing.

The new fast car is also a commuter car and gets great mileage so far. It's not a muscle car but it's a nice gap filler and a solid commuting machine.

 

Here's how I see it. You're trying to do too much at once and you're getting frustrated and buried in expenses. You should get the supercharger on and running. THEN install the methanol kit etc. and grow from there. Too many irons in the fire at once. BTW, don't discourage me bec. i'm doing an L swap, too