Can Stock internal 5.4 2v's handle a 125 shot of juice salely? Well as safe as N20 can be anyway.. I am going to pick up a Good N20 kit to thro on the 4.6 for NMRA in Nov and think I might move it over on to the 5.4.. But I dont really want to ge into the guts of the 5.4 I have now.. Also I am not looking to make 700 hp just some thing to have fun with on the street...


Oh and I will have the HPS intake to..

 

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=136017

"The lower fitting on the boost bypass actuator remains vented to atmosphere."

idk if that helps at all just a quick google search

 

from my understanding yes it will. but you will want to have a nitrous tune and all the safety stuff like window switch and all that. when i get my 4v tuned it will have a 150 shot on it. im pretty sure on stock internals 150 is about the limit so thats where im gonna stay at. just make sure and get it tuned in good and you'll be alright. let us know how it runs

 

stock internal motors have held 175 shots pretty well. It's CRITICAL that the tune be spot on and that you use a window switch and Hobbs switch. A 125 shot is fine. Just realize that there's increased risk over NA.

FWIW, I have a bitchin nitrous kit that's brand damned new for sale. It's a DynotuneNitrous kit with some extra parts. I have a bottle but you can probably grab one cheap off craigslist and save a little. LMK if interested.

Intz, thanks for the link. That's a mod though and mentions the boost bypass solenoid which I don't have... all i have is the vacuum actuated bypass. It was enough info though for me to figure it out.

It seems like the FPRS should get boost side since it would with a centrifugal blower.

 

Yea I ran a 150 shot on my 02gt and never had any problems.. I was just checking cuase I wasnt sure if it would be the same on the 5.4... I dont think ill go more then a 125 pill though. That will be more then enough to surprise my buddys with their foxs..

 

well, after talking it over to tj. he convinced me to go with front mount long tube turbo headers.




he still is using my car to make some more regular long tubes but these will make more power and spool alot faster.....

 

whats the cost???
and when will they be available?

 

most likely they will run around the same as the regular long tubes.

 

what is the price on the regular LT's

I recently hurt my 4.6 and was looking to do the 5.4 swap .. originally I was told that the 4.6 BBK LT headers could work .. if the passanger side was lengthened down about 1 inch for clearance .. and the adapter plates for the intake if you are wanting to run a stock style intake ..

how true is that now .. ?

I know the adapters will still work but I am trying to figure out a parts list before I bother buying anything

I just don't really want to spend a grand or more on some new headers

and after seeing what kind of time some of you are posting with the 5.4 makes me a bit worried too since I am already running faster that that on a 4.6

dont get me wrong I am not knocking the swap I am just trying to get my ducks in a row before i spend money on the swap

 

totally understandable cheeze..... the bbk's won't work without alot of modding. they need an inch or two added to length, then the flanges need to be brought in 1/2 inch to a inch. after that they ride right on top the starter and steering. if you have a fab bud that doesn't mind spending about 10 hours fab time on them you might get out cheaper then a grand. but r3d and i went thru all that already. the ones that FTP are making are a agrand but stainless all the way and made 21rwhp on hunters car.

 

well, hunters motor is back out. he said it was knocking alittle and there were small shaving in his oil. so i just dropped it back off at the machine shop that built it. one thing i mentioned about 150 pages back is to check on what thrust bearing you have, there have been numorous problems with one of the bearing kits thrust bearing. this will be also a good time to maybe have hunter change to flat top pistond since he didn't go with the turbo. also i have some stage 3 cams that would love some flat tops..... we will see....


as for mine, tj is ordering the stainless to start on mine and also a couple sets of long tubes. any of you guys wating a set go ahead and call or email him and let him know so he will get them made.

 

Well the AODE didn't make it to the dyno. Getting powerglide with a transbrake put together and going to the dyno soon. Hopefully before we get any snow.

 

i found a good deal on a gt500 motor,transmission, computer,and harness, does any body know how hard it will be to put in my 2000? im seriously thinking about getting it

 

use your computer and harness, fab up a mounting plate for the TB so it's fly by cable, instead of fly by wire and rock that bad boy. Should be almost drop in except most sensors and cooling fittings are in different places. Not sure about the motor mount issue from >05 to <04. Shouldn't be hard. If you do that I get dibbs on anything you pull out of your combo.

Note that GT500 rods are decent but not bullet proof. They're actually kinda spindly for the power being put to them.

 

The biggest hurdle is the shifter since the S197s use a remote shifter. You will need to find a shifter that mounts directly to the trans.

 

I have a t56 shifter.. should be able to pull one of the access plates and stick it in there... I think. The tr6060 and t56 are the same tranny for the most part, just a little tougher on the 6060.

 

yeah i was thinking bout that,worst case i was going to use my tko 600,im a 5 speed kind of guy anyway,less rotating mass than the huge *** t 56

 

Will cams like this be ok for the 5.4? And what else will is a must to run these??? Oh this is prob ? but will cams from a 4.6 work on the 5.4??


.560/.575
225/235 @ .050
108 LSA

 

Alright I been a little busy working and family lately... I need the link for the 2v to 4v swap maybe I've just overlooked it? I am trying to make a checklist for all parts needed and any extra planning that may need to be done. Anyone know if the lightning/harley idler bracket could be used for routing and tentioner set up on a 4v? I am using a stock eaton from a cobra so any extra research that has been done already would be helpful thanks

 

Silver: the cam you posted looks good. brings the peak out a bit to the top end (5500rpm). Looks perfect for a street car. Makes a little more bottom end tq than the xe270's and has better top end. I'd take it.

 

here's something for you guys:

http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunsho..._detail&p=3227

lightning parts at the ford salvage yard in GA......

 

Holy Crap there is alot of info in here. You guys need a 5.4 tech section so you can try to sort everything out.

Anyways .I been thinking about doing the 5.4 swap for a long time now. Can you guys help me?

 

Your car sounds like a beast

Auto FtW And whats that sticking out of you hood in your Avatar?

Edit: Your the guy with the car i seen on Youtube with the Chrome roll cage etc???
Yessir and Yessir!

+1

Great Parts and most of the time great prices i have purchased a few things from there and have always been happy with there service.

 

R3dn3ck, I was just checking out the car and you did a nice job on cuttin out the hood.I was just wondering are you going to use the stock style air intake tube or are you useing the tube i already seen in the picture.I found the with the stock style tube you have to cut alot more out of the hood,Thats why i decided to go with a 45 Deg silicone elbow from SIS.It might work better for you in the long run.

 

[quote=330CubeGt;429908]Your car sounds like a beast


Auto FtW And whats that sticking out of you hood in your Avatar?

Edit: Your the guy with the car i seen on Youtube with the Chrome roll cage etc???


thats my lightning blower lol, yes thats my car on you tube with the chrome cage,any questions will be glad to help

 

i have a quick question. i just cut the pipes off of my exhaust manifolds for egr and secondary air injection. i cut them off because i couldnt get the fittings to break loose. so since i cant cap them now what can i use to plug the holes? im also making my own imrc delete plates out of my old imrcs what can i use to plug the holes on the plates?

 

have any of you guys had any problems breaking motor mounts?? when i did the swap many moons ago i put brand new mounts in it and ive already got one, passenger side, thats broken. it has caused an exhaust leak on teh driver side and my fuel rails to not properly sit on the injectors so now im leaking fuel too.

 

i broke a few trans mounts on my first swap. these were ford ones too. after a couple months i'd get a rattle under the seat from it.



tq FTW!!!!

 

best advice i can give on motor mount,just spend the 80 bucks on the prothane mounts they are well worth the money,cant go wrong with prothane.let face it who wants the garbage rubber mounts holding your beast under that hood

 

When I had my manifolds I just stuck a bolt in the holes and welded them shut with a normal gas wire welder, they never leaked. As for the plates just pick up a good two-part epoxy, shouldnt be a problem unless you go boosted.