found ac line i blew on advance auto 35 bucks whew better then the 175 for the one i broke on my f-250 diesel this winter ;>

 

they flow about 240intake 200exhaust out of the box (about equal to a stock DOHC C head) from what I recall. With porting you can see 280-290 intake.

 

got a call from FTP last nite, he is gonna have me take the pass. side header home this week to test fit it before he welds it all up. so as soon as i pick it up and fit it to the car there will be pics for you guys to drool over. i saw kar kraft had 4v flanges for 60 bucks, any of you 4v guys want to pick them up so when FTP does some in 4v you have flanges. he said he had a hard time finding 4v flanges when he ordered the 2v ones.

 

97gtstang I'm driving my car on a base tune to break in my clutch before I can really get on it I have about 100 miles left to drive but my car is running similar it's dog down low but pulls pretty good in the top end I thought it was cause of the cams but I'm hoping the tune takes care of it

 

All of these 5.4l Mustangs coming together...............it's great!

 

hey 96blackgt i just started the swap about an hour ago and should have it set down in there in about a week all buttoned up then i just have to wait on my friggin intake to get back from mmr is pissin me off theyve had it for 11 weeks now. but ya looks like i should still be on for august. hopefully i have it tuned by then.

 

yeah my flash tuner hoperfully gets into the dyno shop wed so then i can get a base tune total there is 489 300more for dyno tune but also gota get windshield and pay some other bills so final tune will hopefully be done in like 3 or 4 weeks but right now with no tune she runs like a raped ape. i used to dump the clutch with the 4.6 in 1st and not have my subbox move now i can be rolling 5-10mph goose it and shoot the subbox to the back of the truck ;> time for some anti roll brackets on the box lol and she pulls hard. got about 300 miles on it so far gona change oil tomorrow get the cheap crap out put some good in and a new filter

 

I had to bolt my subs to the trunk in 3 places or it'd fly off. The term "anything not bolted down" takes on new meaning. Glad to see another satisfied swapper.

 

*update*

wed. hunters car goes to FTP for fitting of the passenger side header. tried to take a pic but batteries decided against it. wed. i'll snap a pic or two of the progress and hopefully his will be done by the 11th for a mustang show/dyno day. still have alittle to work out in the tune.....

 

im going with a sullivan intake. how much additional space do you have under your hood with the 2V???

 

addition space with 2v in a 97 = none hood has to be modified some and part of heat matt cut out or throttle body wont clear

 

but thats a stock hood. r3d has the 00 R hood. i want a 00R hood, but if thats not enough cowl ill just go with the 95 style R hood...

 

ic didnt know that my bad rock on ;>

 

Cool, looking forward to meeting you and seeing the ride. Hopefully I will have mine tuned by then.......I dought it!

 

still had to clearance mine a tad. Depends on the maker of the hood.

 

has anyone else had trouble disconnecting the clutch cable during the swap? i started to pull the motor and something was holding up and i found out it was the clutch cable so with the motor still raised i tried to disconect it and i cant get the end of it to come free so i can slide it out of the tranny? any tips?

 

+1. first time i went for a spin i heard thump thump thump. somehow one ended up, unside down and sideways and the other was turned around. haha


did you pull the little c-clip lookin thing and then release it from the fork?
the clip is right where the cable goes through the bell housing.

 

the 5.4 DOHC is 35 1/2" from the factory the 5.4 SOHC is 28" and my stock 4.6 SOHC is 26". ut these numbers are with stock intake maifolds... how much height can i expect to cut off with a sullivan intake? and will it be enough? r3d, how much more motor can you fit under your hood right now as it sits?

 

if I had an R intake or a Boss 290 intake on it with a 4v setup it'd probably clear. I'm going to bet a sully will be within an inch of fitting but it'll be that inch you have to cut. My blower setup will stick through a good easy 4" in places, possibly much more.

 

when you say stick through another 4" do you mean that it'll stick through the hole you cut or 4" beyond the hood(as in it does not fit at all by an additional 4")???

 

if you are saying disconectiong from the fork i had to put a prybar inside the tranny through the fork hole and pry the fork backwards or forwards however you want to put it "towards front of car"... when i did my steeda adjustable cable/firewall adjuster and quadrant

 

Question guys. Have my engine apart as far as I wanted to (rods and pistons out). Now my question is I have forged rods and pistons on the way; do i need to do anything else to the bottom end? Or can I get by just bolting the new ones in???

thanks in advance for any help!
tim

 

You're installing forged rods and pistons, but not a forged crank?

 

r3d, post up pics of yours.......

 

The reasoning behind that is the stock crank will be fine to about 600HP, and since I do not plan on going over 5-550HP with the turbo I should be fine with the stock crank.

So is this a simple bolt in?

 

yeah i would also do hardened main/rod bearings from summit hone the cylinder walls and such all that good stuff just got done rebuilding my 5.4 cept reused rods and pistons since i kept getting dicked around for forged components and im not going SC or Turbo anytime soon

 

just figoured incase anyone wonders somewhat on how much it costs to do this swap with rebuilding the motor for me anyways heres a rough estimate


Engine - 156 complete
Main Bearings - 50ish
Rod Bearings - 150+ "Hardened"
Rings - 60
Crank Polish - 75
Timing Kit - 220 - 2chains 2tensioners 2 tensioner arms 2 guides 1 peice double sprocket
PI heads - 320
CMS St 2 cams- 600
new cam gears - 50
Gaskets - roughly 200 including head gaskets
head bolts - 45 TTY
Comp beehive springs - 165
Seals- 50 main and such
PI intake w/ adapter plates - 200
New water neck/oil filter adapter on side of engine w gasket and new pressure sensor-180
Oil and misc items such as sensors coolant and blah blah - 150
new engine mounts - 70
new ac liquid line "doh" - 35..waiting on part then ill know the full price with refridgerant
Broken nuckles - many
beers - by the case "24" of the good stuff budlight - 6;>
steel beehive style retainers for springs - 50
new flywheel - 100
broken wheel on engine hoist - annoying
HR super sport springs bbk isolators - 200 not on yet tho :<
XCal 3 - 489 with a base tune from tuner - comes in monday
Dyno tune after full break in and my pocket book stops screaming at me - 300 no matter if it takes 1 day or 1 month to get it right


the end product... fuggn priceless ;> and i probaly forgot some stuff but o well that was all going off the top of my head to many prices to remember

 

it'll stick out the hole an additional 4".

Adapter plates and HPS 4.6 intake: Got into the stock hood just a tad at the back.


HPS 5.4 intake and stock hood. Before it got munched I had 1" more space to the stock GT hood than with plates and would not have required any clearancing that I could see.


Lightning blower, the compressor itself will just barely poke through but the inlet on the top and all the associated crud will be entirely above the hood unless I can figure out a new top hat setup.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...053009_005.jpg

 

Thats part of the plan as well. Just wanted to make sure I wouldnt need anything rebalanced etc since Im messing around with everything.
These things are internally balanced correcT?

 

thank you sir. the pics are a huge help. my guess would be that im probably gonna have to do some cutting, but hopefully it wont be much.

JohnySVT, what hood are you going with???