Red. Found his email and sent him a message.

 

alright guys:
I got my tuner in and mail order tune installed. It definetly helped it out, but I am still having the same problem to a certain extent. When I am just getting on teh gas (normal driving) it feels good, pulls just right. But when I get into the pedal it just falls on its face. Makes a lot of noise, but no go. LIke driving a real noisy Ford Fiesta. Something is still not right... I also have removed the H from the O/R H pipe, so I can hear both banks seperate standing behind. It sounds like I have aftermarket cams.. Possible timing is not right on one side causing this issue? Or am I fishing in the wrong area and this is mechanical drivetrain issue? Clutch, or gas cable?

 

Very well could be a timing issue....

 

The one under the intake, that hooks up behind the water pump. Its the only thing under there.

Just for kicks, what do the plugs look like? I'd check them first, just cause thats easy and free. If nothing else it might point you in the right directions, if its just one bank, both banks ect.
How sure are you of the cam timing? I think the piston is far enough down in the bore, on a 5.4, to prevent the valve from hitting, if it is off.

 

I changed the oil and plugs prior to the tune. They are brand new. I am not 100% sure on the timing.

 

It sounds like a fuel issue.

Lets think about what affects fuel delivery. The fuel pump-could be weak? The filter-could be old/clogged? The injectors/fuel rails -to small?(not likly) The mass air could be out of spec/damaged causing a fuel issue?-.....VERY LIKLY! Timing......yea you got timing problems. This is what the computer does when it gets a lean situation, it backs timing off. Try unpluging the MAF sensor and drive it up the road. Sure it's going to run like doop, but if power pics up you will have a clue.
What would cause the MAF sensor to be out? It could be damaged with out visually knowing. Was it dropped, bump, or plug in/out with the battery hooked up? Is it stock, aftermarket, or both(this one would be the red flag)
Could it be a TPS(throttle posisiton)? If it is bad the idial will normaly go up, like 2000 rpms!
Also, if there is a leak in the intake track pass the MAF sensor it will go into a lean state. Any one with adapter plates can vouch this one.
Could it be some bad O2's? The car normally goes into a rich state with this problem. Sensors would show a cold state, their for sending a cold signal inturn more fuel.

I hope you get it figured out! Nothing more crappy than getting a build together and not run right.

Keep us posted

 

Had this problem on a supercahrged Riveria once, we checked timing, coils, plugs, wires, crank and cam sensors, all of it checked out. IT WAS THE EFING FUEL PUMP. The pump was working well enough that the car would run fine under normal driving but anytime we tried to floor it the car fell flat on its face.

 

^ beat me to it!! But yea moree than likely fuel related.

 

What did the plugs look as far as how it was running, like black and sooty or white and glazed ect. and were they the same on both sides? To be honest I really dont know of a way to check the cam timing with the motor together.

 

I noticed in your post a couple of pages back that you stated 24lbs injectors and a 90mm mass air and you had a tune for it...? Did you change this back to stock?
Don't use a mass air.....unplug it ....then drive. Reply! If problem is still there, some one with more brain power is gonna have to chime in.......!

R3D!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The 5.4 Oilpan wont work? do you know if my bbk long tubes will fit is there enough clearance with the wider block ?

 

I had this same problem you need a mass air sensor calibrated to 24lb injectores i put a 90mm lightning on my cobra with my 24lbs and tuned it with sniper and my car drove good normal then wot the car fell on its face

 

Update on mine...Got the heads on (still need to be torqued down though.) Got a question though....With the adapter plates, is it normal that there is a step where it meets the head? It is like the adapter plates ports are larger than the head ports.

 

no it wont work. it will hit the k-member. the 4.6 pan will work just need to beat the 2 baffles in the front down a little bit to clear the crank throw. the cobra oil pans hold enough oil so 6 1/2 qrts should be sufficient haha.

the longtubes wont work. you might be able to take them to an exhaust shop and have them modified but im sure it would be costly. the only options we have right now are stock manifolds or frpp shorty headers which are pretty much stock manifolds.

 

i'm heading to FTP for lunch to see if they have the jig made yet for them....

 

Wahooo...getting a tune from Rick!!!

 

Whats the major differences between the qa1 tubular k member vs the MM k member?

 

right on that would be awesome if us 4v guys could start runnin long tubes now. if this is the case ill wait to drop the motor in till iget the headers cus itll be a bitch and a half puttin 'em in from the bottom haha.

 

well if these headers pan out like i'd like them to, all the would have to do is put 4v flanges on them instead of 2v.

- was there yesterday and he pickedup a busted 5.4 to use as a model.....

 

the maf is cald to the injectors in the tune.
I am going to swap meters with another 90 and see what happens. then remove it all together and see what happens.

as far as plugs go,

they all looked pretty good except #3 wad dripping fuel off of it.

 

Bad injector maybe? Sorry I cant remember but did you try moving the injector around to see if the code followed?

 

is the stock supply fuel line from the tank 5/16"?

 

yeah I did, stayed in the same place. it seels to run kinda rough. I tried the MAF swaps, still the same.

I am just gonna bite the bullet and pull the damn front apart

 

yep

 

The only thing that bothers me is its just that one cylinder, if the cam timing was out, I'd assume the whole bank would be affected. I know you checked 'em but I cant help suspecting the ignition if you moved the fuel injector and the code stayed on the same cylinder. Just to be sure, #3 is the third one back on the passenger side, just making sure

I'd buy a cheap dial indicator and a degree wheel from like summit, so you can have more peace of mind before putting it back together this time.

 

If the 2v head will allow it they should provide enough flange to drill for the 3v pattern and we'd have a 3v swap header too. See bolt pattern difference here...

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

 

i'll show this to tj at FTP.


- i think i have enough fuel for the twin hairdryers:



from there it will go into a y block to a -10 into the pump...

 

Pass side goes 1-3-5-7 drivers goes 2-4-6-8....corect me if im wrong so no its 2nd back ;>

 

um... passanger side goes 1,2,3,4... driver side goes 5,6,7,8... correct me if i'm wrong. But thats how the 4.6 2V is, and thats how i wired my 5.4 4V

 

anyone interested in buying a completed 5.4 4V setup in a 98gt??? haha, i have recipts for over $25k. New everything in the engine, and accesories, and new T56 and clutch, and drive shaft. jeeze... i'm stuck w/ this car forever - i could never get close to 20k for it.