just keep an eye on corral.net, tb's and plenums sell like hot cakes on that site. I recently scored injectors, 75mm accufab and c&l plenum for under 2 bills

 

So what size TB would I need? If I stay stock would it be stock 5.4 or stock 4.6 off my npi? Im am on a pretty strict budget. The main reason Im doing this is because either way I need a new engine. So why not a 5.4 Also what size injectors would you guys recommend?

 

If the budget is that tight, use the 4.6 TB/plenum and might as well stay with the stock 19lb injectors for now, the 5.4 plenum wont really work, they usually point in a different direction. If you change too much, you will need a tune, and that'll add more cost. It probably wont run great without a tune anyway but if you change sizes on injectors, you'll have to get one.

 

I have the sniper tuning software so I will be able to tune for bigger injectors and cubes. Hopefully the sniper tuner will be enough to make it run right

 

Have you got the special forces? or the commando/delta force? You should check out their forum and play with recon too, its nice for showing fuel trim, if you've got a laptop that is.

 

well hopefully i get my block and crank back for the 97 5.4 this week only question i have right now is i have 97 Stang gt do i have to cut all the way through the hood or just the brace webbing to fit the tb/plenum or will it clear? thanks ive read maybe 80 pages of the 223 but read so much info i dont remember seeing for a 98 and older model. thanks guys

 

I have the special forces, I have never played with the recon but I do have a laptop, so I could try it.

 

I was also looking at the JLT RAI to replace the current 80mm MAC Straightshot...

 

The software has some bugs so if it gives you any trouble check out their forum.

I went ahead and got a '95 R hood when I did my swap so I really couldnt tell you about the stock hood.

 

Stangslayer, 97gtstang.....!

Welcome! It's great to see some new intrest! Ask away on the Questions and don't feel remorse about a "dumb" question. I top the charts when it comes to "dumb" I'm sure the questions you ask, has been asked before, but who want to weed through 7000 post.

Stangslayer! I hear ya on the budget! My setup is all stock with NON-PI heads, minus the rods. My project has been sitting for 3 years now also. Don't lose hope and keep pushing forward!

 

You'll only have to cut the webbing on the underside, but you have to cut it almost flush with the top side.

 

i have a quick question about what compression im gonna end up with. The stock compression on my 4.6 was 9.85:1. the stock pistons were either a two or 4cc dish and my 4v heads have a 52cc combustion chamber.

now the navi shortblock im buying has flat tops. so what cr will i see with flat tops and a 52cc combustion chamber on the 5.4?

 

it's actually a tiny bit more involved but no more difficult. Just another couple connections. I'll need a close up pic of your fuel rail kit and all the parts it came with so I can give you the right parts list. I may just make you the parts and make it easy on myself. I have some spare goodies to clear out.

that'll work perfectly. Enjoy the new power. Use your stock MAF, use a 70-75mm TB and any aftermarket plenum. A stock plenum is ok as well.

see above. use the stock TB and plenum off your 4.6 on a 4.6 intake. I'd recommend at least a 24lb injector for long term (I use 30's) but a set of stock yellow-top 19's or pink top 21's will do for daily driving.

If you can adjust the fuel trims and a few of the scalars then you'll be just fine. It's not a hard thing to get tuned really.

You'll have to clear a good bit of the webbing but the top skin should be fine. Most of the trimming is at the rear of the hood where the TB and plenum normally touch. My 00 R' hood had to be clearanced there too.

watch the amount of space they eat up. You may end up with minor hood clearance issues if you use a really big diameter kit.

should be stock navi compression. 9.8:1 or 10:1 IIRC. I run 10.5:1 on 91 octane with plenty of timing. Don't trip. S'all good unless you want to run much boost at all.

 

What are the other scalers I will need to adjust? I can change fuel trims as in like bump from 87 to 91 all the way up to like 113 octane I think.

 

Red, have you seen the pic of my hood? Shouldn't be much of a problem....

 

here ya go








and even the directions

 

Fuel trims aren't for octane. They're for fuel delivery. You'll need to adjust the MAF xfer function table, displacement scalar, intake volume scalar and then the standard reset of all the adaptives.

Shouldn't be too big an issue at all. Make sure you have hood pins if that's a fibreglass hood. Just ordered my set from summit. AM wanted 65 even with a discount for the exact same part that summit has for 39 shipped.

You got the same rail kit as I do but you have a return style fuel system. You'll need an extra fitting. I got you covered. Lemme put some lines together for you. I can do it cheaper than you can since I have some leftover parts. You're using the HPS intake soon right?

 

yes sir. should be here late this week or early next week

 

LOL! Ya, I have had hood pins on ever since I owned the car. Was the first mod I did to it. I have 3 nice dimples across the top of the windshield from the hood opening on the previous owner....

 

rofl.

Joey, those injectors and the surprise show up yet?

I'm working your parts list. I had to make sure some parts that I use here (due to cost benefits) are available where you are.

you'll need in addition to your fuel rails:
spring-lock 3/8" (near as I can tell, I'll be more certain later today) fuel rail fitting
fuel pressure regulator
5x 3/8 NPT male - -6AN male
1x -8AN in / -6AN out Y-fitting (or a showerhead)
-6 hose (about 10ft)
5-6 -6 hose ends
3/8"NPT male - -8AN male

more to come.

 

pics and video action:

 

8-Bolt Aluminum Ford Racing Flywheel w/ 2,200 miles on it.
Ford Part # M-6375-R00
Used on the 2000 Cobra "R" Mustang. Fits Cobra 4.6L/5.4L DOHC 4-Valve engines and other mustangs w/ 8-bolt crank. Reduced rotating mass for faster engine acceleration in race applications. Fits 10.5" and 11" clutch. Meets SFI 1.1. I paid $400 (dealership price), and I guess I'll take $125.

 

My PI intake was shipped out today!! The first step in getting the parts for my 5.4. This is going to get excitiing

 

Has anyone seen fuel line extensions using the stock type fittings? I'm trying to find a cheap way to convert the returnless rail on my 3v and would need to extend the feed line a little as it enters further forward than my 2v rail. I can create a return line by using one of these....

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...ils.php?id=456

...which goes under the pressure sender on a returnless rail, and I'd use the port for a return line instead of nitrous kit feed and just not plug in the pressure sensor. Go from there to an inline regulator, and from there to the stock return line with something like this....

http://yhst-37354654005614.stores.ya...-adapters.html

Voila, return style system! Only downside is the cost, I can adapt my 2v rail but the mounting tabs are all different and it'll be ugly...

Anybody have an inline regulator they don't need?

Also, if interested you can check some pics of my 3v swap progress here...

http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...ct-thread.html


Also just a reminder that I'll have a 2v engine for sale thats a perfect candidate for a rebuild if someone were going forged. The crank has been turned, and the heads have bronze guides and a 3 angle valve job and are ported. Great starting point for a quickie rebuild or forged build, gonna ask $600 for the complete engine....

 

I used all the stock main fuel supply line and used NPT to springlock fittings and hooked those in to the rail adapters. You'll need a (IIRC 3/8") springlock fitting. From there it's all pretty basic plumbing.

For those making fuel rail setups I'd suggest buying a Y fitting or a showerhead fitting and splitting the fuel supply off to each rail there for more even pressure at the injectors. For return lines you just take another Y fitting and feed the out of each rail into that and then through the single out into your FPR.

Is there any interest in a GP of pre-fabbed fuel rail kits for HPS intakes? I'll make them if a few of you guys sign up. I have a better packaging layout for my new generation of setups so it looks a lot cleaner than my own setup.

 

wish i had seen this before spending a couple hundred on a complete new system....

 

I have the HPS intake and a C&L plenum with a 75mm TB and a JLT cold air. I have hood clearance with the stock hood no problem.

I just got to drive mine for the first time a few days ago. With the stock 3.27 gears it was kinda doggy until it hit about 3,000 RPM then it started to go. I put the 3.90 gears in the other day and man, what a difference. I haven't really beat on it hard yet becuase I have 19#ers and no tune. I can definately tell you it is way more then the 4.6 ever thought about. It's no rocketship, but it should be fun times.

 

yes sir they just showed up at my buddies work about 30 min ago. *excited*
so with all of the fittings and pieces, whats a total cost looking like? also you said you are thinking about making set-ups for those who want/need it, what kind of price on labor are we possibly looking at?

 

there is no labor charge. I charge only what the parts and shipping cost me. Them's the rules for r3d built stuff.

Usual cost is about 150 bucks or so with all the fittings (plus a FPR if you need one). I did my whole setup for like 300 bucks IIRC and I went pretty far on mine. The hoses are the part most people hate dealing with and I already have all the special tools to make putting AN stuff together easy so I can sorta bang em out once there's orders in place.

 

are you going to have to order the FPR or do you have a place close by to get one or an extra lay'n around? just trying to time it right to were i can have the fuel system ready for when the intake comes in, or they day after