Appears I was correct in my thinking and SHOULD be dead on. The 4.6 chains are the correct lenght to where if the copper links are not visable you can fold it in half and mark both ends of the flat links. The 5.4 you will fold it in half, mark one end and the other will have to be marked in the middle of 2 links.

Reference:http://car.justanswer.com/questions/...997-f-150-5-4l

 

anyone know how to tell if a stock chain is still good, is there a length test ford would use or is it just visual inspection???

 

From my understanding just a visual inspection. I think they are sure the guides and arms will wear out before the chain does.

 

From what i was told when building my 4.6 up... they just said visually inspect them.. If you have chain failure it would be a complete fluke... They said they are pretty strong.. And the guides will wear out well before the chain.

Hmm thats weird though it has a equal number of links...

Did anyone use the adjustable cam gears? im thinking about using Comp Cams, as ive heard alot of bad stuff about Fidanza...

Also, will have some photoshop pics of my car... thinking of painting the new hood gloss black roof black trunk/spoiler black.. and i have the stock color of dark green metallic satin... or what ever lol....
will have it photoshopped in for you all to see so can see what you think..

 

Minor setback for me damnit, I had forgot one of the damn studs broke off the header(that bolts to the h-x pipe) so I have to remove it before installing it. I am going to try to remove it tonight at work, but it appears to be as tight as a ticks ***.
I am also going to be trying to keep the x-pipe, not so much for sound but since it is what was allready on the car.

 

We had a bunch of header bolt issues on mine. After a while we just found a bolt that would fit and stuck it through. FYI on the X pipes... I don't think it sounds nearly as good as a H pipe on the 5.4. It's so much throatier than a 4.6 that the raspy sound from the X almost turns into that old flowmaster pinging sound.

 

hmm... hopefully you can get that out...

hoping my headers will work.. because i threw the stock ones away....

 

I may have some stock manifolds laying around if you need them. Only FRPP or JBA shorties fit without modification. BBK shorties don't fit under any circumstance without major modification.

 

hmm... well looks like im going to be selling my BBK's

 

long tube or shorties?

 

shorty

 

yeah... Saleen S 330 tried BBK's but they hit the steering shaft and the frame on the other side. This is exactly why I started this thread. You get the straight dope from people who are doing the exact same thing.

 

ya thats good to know... lol cause i was going to try it

now i know it wont work lol

 

May end up having to hack the x up to the point where its then an h-pipe, depending on how much it has to be modified. Cant beleave I cant find a single soul to swap me even. Hell, I was even open to the summit brand for my dr. gas.
The bolt that is broke off is the collector bolt r3d, not an actual header bolt

 

exactly the same problem I had.

For the X, extend the passenger side down tube from the collector 2", then heat connect one side to the collector, then use a torch to heat the driver side tube before the cat (if any) and then tug for all you're worth to get it over an inch. All done.

I'd swap you if I had a H-pipe but all I have is a X. I'd order some 2.5" or 3" tubing from Summit and cut the X out then make a H-pipe for it. It'll fit better and sound better. The small crossover tube on most H-pipes isn't big enough for a good sound anyway. 2.25" crossover stock is great sounding with 2.5" pipe on big inch modulars.

 

ya i still have my stock one.. so guess ill put it back in... and sometime in the future by the deletable cat ones that will slide in and out...

 

Will a 4.6 hardballer make more power(or should I say give a higher shift point) over the stocker, assuming both are using adapter plates?

What about that vic jr style intake? Has anyone even tried that thing NA yet? Would be a dog I would think on a 281, but on an NA 330 seems it would work ok

 

if you are going to change intakes id just wait tell teh 5.4 hardball'r comes out... so then you wont have those damn plates...
just my .02 cents

 

Im too impatient to wait. Might just do the normal small mods and call it a day. Or might focus on the suspension and getting it to hook and not handle. Wish there was a comprimise to hook like HELL on the street and still take a curve LOL.

 

K member coil overs.. A Arms in front... for rear... ya... pretty much option one... nice fat sticky tires...

 

The hardball'r in mine with the porting I did broadened out the power band quite nicely. My cams kinda needed that setup though. The adapter plates are the restriction. The victor would be smokin (if it's a 5.4 specific piece) up top but I think you'll suffer a bit on the low end and throttle response may not be as great with the tiny little plenum. Plus the whole getting it mounted bit (not a real challenge but a PITA). In your shoes, I'd do the vic unless it's going to have to use adapter plates. In which case use a cheap ol PI intake until the 5.4 hardball'r is out. Trust me, it's worth it.

There is a suspension that does pretty well for street and strip: Maximum Motorsports Torque arm. With drag radials the thing would flat gitty. Set it up with 225# springs in the back and 250# springs up front with adjustable shocks and struts. You'll want the full Max Grip box. I use it minus the k-member for now. The new longtubes need to work with a stock K-member so it has to stay for now.

 

what is the ETA on that still january? or we at like march ?

 

Is MM the only company that makes them? I had a lot of issues with them in the past(without going into detail, it involved a panhard bar kit) and would prefer to do business elsewhere.

???

 

Lets talk EGR delete. I assume this can be easily tuned out using a chip?

 

i heard its not a good idea to delete the egr

 

last I heard. I'll fire off an email to bob today and see what he's got for eta.

Griggs makes them too. The griggs kit is a little noisier but it's every bit as good. I don't like the griggs PHB... I've seen a few of them wear and break. the Maximum phb is really the best I've seen. You could also consider a watts link. That would be badass and I know they're made... I'll have to google it to find them though.

EDIT: Griggs and Evolution Motorsports make watts links. With a torque arm that's an insane street/road course suspension and simple quick spring and shock adjustments make for decent drag running.

Easy as pie just like that.

It cools the pistons down and lowers NOX by reducing the burn temp. It's fine to delete but you need to tune for it like any other system deletion. Mine is done in true redneck fashion. the header is capped off and the little tube coming off the back of the upper plenum is folded over and crimp sealed. The sensor has a vacuum line looped on it's 2 inputs and the egr valve vacuum line is connected like normal.

 

any updates from everyone else? i've been snowed under at work( 2 jobs) and my pwdercoating business has been really busy also. but i should be done tomarrow with the long tube headers and new cai( 90mm all the way to the tb)

 

Mine is ready to drop in, waiting on valve cover gaskets now.

In case anyone else is curious. I heard someone here say they wish they had a shorter oil filter. After going through a couple books, a filter from a 8 honda prelude is the same exsact filter BUT 1" shorter.

 

FYI i spent half an hour on the phone with the guys at Raceflow who did cnc porting on my heads. I got them back and no cnc work was done on chambers so I called to see what the deal was, come to find out they are making more power with the 2v heads leaving the swirl dam in the chamber. Reason....the ports on the these heads create so much swirl that ford put the dam in there to actually slow down or stop the swirl once the mixture is in the cylinder. So I am just rounding the corners and and removing the small bump inbetween the valves and laying back all the sharp edges with a sanding roll. They claim doing this and oval shaping the short side radious all the way into the valve seat on the intake side makes substantial more power than anyone elses head.

 

off subject anyone got a calculator to see what my 90 mph rear wheel hp in the 1/8 was so I can compare to the new motor.