lowering springs
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 567
lowering springs
my goal this winter is to do some suspension/brake work to my stang. So far I am planning on doing kyb agx gas shocks and struts, cross drilled & slotted rotors, new brake pads, new tires, and paint my calipers red. While doing this i might as well lower the stang a little bit. What kind of lowering springs do you guys recommend...keep in mind i have 18x9 Saleen rims and want to be able to fit 255/40/18 tires in the front with 285/35/18 tires in the rear...
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
Originally Posted by 97stanger
my goal this winter is to do some suspension/brake work to my stang. So far I am planning on doing kyb agx gas shocks and struts, cross drilled & slotted rotors, new brake pads, new tires, and paint my calipers red. While doing this i might as well lower the stang a little bit. What kind of lowering springs do you guys recommend...keep in mind i have 18x9 Saleen rims and want to be able to fit 255/40/18 tires in the front with 285/35/18 tires in the rear...
Cross drill and slotted rotors. Why don't you give me the money if you want to waste it so much. NO CROSS DRILLED ROTORS. You don't race hard core, you don't need the hassle. Slotted are just fine, so are properly sized plain faced for street and light track duty. Cross drilling weakens the rotor, creates a place for cracks to start, and reduces swept area (braking capacity relates directly to this) dramatically. Modern pads do not outgas. That's a fable, they do glaze that's a real bad time. Slots will clean the pad surface and reduce glazing. Brake pad choice should realistically reflect your actual driving situation. Race pads eat azz on the street as a rule.
Don't bother with conventional lowering springs. To be any use they have to be pretty stiff and give a really rough ride. Save up a little and get a coil-over kit (MM is great, Griggs is great) for the front with a nice mid-rate spring. You'll get a great ride plus lower weight and better handling. I wasted money on stock type lowering springs and I really wish I could have that money back after having a Maximum Motorsports coil over kit installed.
If you must, eibach, steeda, H&R, are all fine options for regular springs.
Sigma Beta Rho Soldier
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,682
From: Philadelphia, PA
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
Cross drill and slotted rotors. Why don't you give me the money if you want to waste it so much. NO CROSS DRILLED ROTORS. You don't race hard core, you don't need the hassle. Slotted are just fine, so are properly sized plain faced for street and light track duty. Cross drilling weakens the rotor, creates a place for cracks to start, and reduces swept area (braking capacity relates directly to this) dramatically. Modern pads do not outgas. That's a fable, they do glaze that's a real bad time. Slots will clean the pad surface and reduce glazing. Brake pad choice should realistically reflect your actual driving situation. Race pads eat azz on the street
Cross drilled rotors crack very easily, even the best crossdrilled rotors from Powerslot I have seen cracked. If you want something similar to cross drilled get dimpled rotors. They have better structure (uncompromised by a hole in them) and will brake very closely to a cross drilled rotor.
Im over 300 RWHP in my car, and im changing out my brakes as well, but im going with Powerslot rotors, 03 Cobra Calipers, SS Lines, and Hawk Pads. Should give me plenty of bite, but not destroy my pads.
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