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50k miles, what to check.

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Old 05-03-2010 | 06:00 PM
Danimal1209's Avatar
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Default 50k miles, what to check.

Well, I have owned this gt since 39k miles. I have changed the oil several times. Other than that I have not changed much else as far as fluids go. What kind of things should I check for at this mileage? Do any belts NEED to be changed at this point? What other maintenance should I look into getting done?
 
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Old 05-03-2010 | 06:16 PM
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Belts shouldnt usually be changed unless you see visual damage underneath them. What i mean by visual damage is cracks or cuts. Fuel filter should probably be changed. Umm...idk anything else, im sure someone else can chime in.
 

Last edited by Deathdiesel; 05-03-2010 at 06:20 PM.
  #3  
Old 05-03-2010 | 07:02 PM
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fuel filter, coolant and tranny fluid is probably what I would do. I've got 53k on mine and I need to get around to the tranny fluid soon.
 
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Old 05-03-2010 | 07:09 PM
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Are these things I can do myself? I have changed the oil and put on a new TB and Plenum, but I am in no way a mechanic. If they're pretty simple then I shall try to tackle them.
 
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Old 05-03-2010 | 07:55 PM
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Check the belt for cracks and wear. If its cracked all over, and I'm sure it is, I would replace it. If the brakes haven't been gone through yet, this would be the time to check the pads and replace them and the fluid if needed. Tranny flush wither its auto or stick would be a must also. Then you can go under the car and grease all the fitting you can find. Which isn't that many now days on these cars.
 
  #6  
Old 05-03-2010 | 10:05 PM
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You should be able to manage most of these yourself. The fuel filter requires fuel line removal tools (or something like that)...my buddy did mine when we swapped the fuel pump. You can rent them at a local auto parts store.

The coolant is pretty easy...there is a plastic screw type plug in the bottom passenger side on the radiator. Just unscrew that almost all the way and coolant will start to come out. Do this on a cold motor you don't want to get burned! You won't get it fully flushed out due to some being in the lines and motor but that shouldn't be a big deal at 50k. I removed the reservoir while I was at it and cleaned that out with a hose. Then just buy some coolant (I used prestone I think) and mix it about 50/50 with water...or even easier but more costly buy the pre mix. Start the car and let it run you'll notice the the motor will start to suck it in and you'll probably need to top it off as the car warms up.

Do some searches there are a lot of DIY articles out there...I'm sure you'll find what you need for most of it.
 
  #7  
Old 05-04-2010 | 10:28 AM
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Yeah, I actually did the coolant the other day too.

The belt seems to be in good shape, no real physical cracks. Not many anyway.

I think I need to look into getting new brakes soon though. Hawk pads are nice I hear.
 
  #8  
Old 05-04-2010 | 03:38 PM
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I have Hawk HP pads and they bite good, but they do squeel a little bit. Not very often though.
 
  #9  
Old 05-04-2010 | 06:07 PM
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I've got the Hawk HP as well. I don't feel any difference than stock really but mine don't squeal at all. It all depends on prepping the pad before install. My mechanic buddy helped me install mine and he had some stuff we put on the pad itself as well as some spray for the other side. I can't remember what the products where called but as I said no noise what so ever.
 
  #10  
Old 05-06-2010 | 07:45 PM
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My suggestion:
-Brake pads if at 1/16" thickness or less.
-Spark Plugs (if you drive the car hard, you're lucky to get 100k).
-If not done yet, diff and trans fluid.
-Belt/tensioner if you see wear.
-Replace battery if it's older than 4 years old.

For pads, I'm a fan of Satisfied GS6. Tirerack.com has them.
 
  #11  
Old 05-16-2010 | 01:07 AM
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when you change your pads you should turn your rotors or get some 120 grit sand paper and go around your rotors.
 
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