ROTATING ASSEMBLY BUILD UP DILEMA - NEED SOME BIG POWER PROFESSIONALS TO WEIGH IN
#1
12-12-2009 | 02:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 34
From: Jacksonville, Florida
ROTATING ASSEMBLY BUILD UP DILEMA - NEED SOME BIG POWER PROFESSIONALS TO WEIGH IN
Ok so here's the deal... I had a short block built with the following, Manley piston, Mod Max H-beam rods and forged Cobra crank and it's done and ready to rock. The plan is to make 700rwhp or about 825bhp, we're tuning for 700rwhp. I have all the supporting mods and the list is too massive to list. At the last minute I decided that maybe I should overbuild the block a little more in case I ever wanted to step up in power, i.e. a 100 shot or more boost etc. So here's my questions,
1.) Do I go ahead and pull the current short block apart and put the billet I-beam Mod Max rods and Mod Max CP pistons in there with the cobra crank or just leave the block as it is? (would be rated for about 1200bhp and 9,500rpms...way overbuilt)
2.) Does everyone feel pretty confident that the current short block that I have built will handle 825BHP safely?
Thanks again everyone. J
PS - If anyone has a Streetfire.net account add me... http://user.streetfire.net/profile/helloman1976.htm
1.) Do I go ahead and pull the current short block apart and put the billet I-beam Mod Max rods and Mod Max CP pistons in there with the cobra crank or just leave the block as it is? (would be rated for about 1200bhp and 9,500rpms...way overbuilt)
2.) Does everyone feel pretty confident that the current short block that I have built will handle 825BHP safely?
Thanks again everyone. J
PS - If anyone has a Streetfire.net account add me... http://user.streetfire.net/profile/helloman1976.htm
#2
12-13-2009 | 08:59 AM
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
the tune is what will determine if the engine holds together at those power levels, not how much power you make. 1 little glitch and you'll take it home in baggies.
Yes, you have bad enough components (assuming ARP main studs and head studs and MLS or soft copper HG's) to take any power you can get into it on pump gas. No I would not pull the SB out just to add more expensive rods.
make sure your tune is spot on and don't cheap out on who you have do the tuning.
Yes, you have bad enough components (assuming ARP main studs and head studs and MLS or soft copper HG's) to take any power you can get into it on pump gas. No I would not pull the SB out just to add more expensive rods.
make sure your tune is spot on and don't cheap out on who you have do the tuning.
#3
12-13-2009 | 02:54 PM
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Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 34
From: Jacksonville, Florida
the tune is what will determine if the engine holds together at those power levels, not how much power you make. 1 little glitch and you'll take it home in baggies.
Yes, you have bad enough components (assuming ARP main studs and head studs and MLS or soft copper HG's) to take any power you can get into it on pump gas. No I would not pull the SB out just to add more expensive rods.
make sure your tune is spot on and don't cheap out on who you have do the tuning.
Yes, you have bad enough components (assuming ARP main studs and head studs and MLS or soft copper HG's) to take any power you can get into it on pump gas. No I would not pull the SB out just to add more expensive rods.
make sure your tune is spot on and don't cheap out on who you have do the tuning.
Great, that's pretty much what I figured as well. I never cheap on any engine part ever, or tune/tuner, and I only use the best parts I can find. I'm using ARP2000 bolts and head studs. Rings are made for boost applications and pistons are dished 18cc's. I'm going to go ahead with the build then and go from there. I'm hoping 700 to the rear tires feeds my power addiction but I guess we'll see.
PS - I WHOOPED the hell out of a couple cars today, running 515rwhp right now, and I loved beating the **** out of this souped up red M3...he had his girlfriend in the car...it was awesome lol
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