MODULAR BIG-BORE 5.0 TECH
#1
MODULAR BIG-BORE 5.0 TECH
With permission of the website owner, Moderators, and fellow website members, and all others of like-minded interest(s), I am starting this thread to accommodate any interest(s) in the new 5.0 big-bore MOD blocks being offered by FRPP (both cast-iron and aluminum iron-sleeved).
Unless otherwise directed (I don't want to step on any toes here); please post all information, experiences (both good and bad), pricing, places to purchase, modifications, SWAP PROJECTS { }, and any and all other 5.0 MOD block-related details/information on this thread.
This thread is intended to work as the 5.4 SWAP thread does. Hopefully this will be a good reference point for those of us out there that will be tackling this type of mod using the 5.0 MOD blocks and may assist those (like myself) who are contemplating a MOD swap to either a 5.0 big-bore or a 5.4 engine.
Trans adaptations for both of these motors are welcome, but please try to remember this is at heart a SWAP THREAD for the SOHC and DOHC engines (not the pushrod engines) utilizing either the 2-V, 3-V, or 4-V heads.
Since the blocks are still new the popularity may not be all that much yet, but given time I think these projects will multiply in number. It may be a slow start, but at least it's getting started.
FOLKS PLEASE ENJOY ~ GOOD LUCK !!!
Unless otherwise directed (I don't want to step on any toes here); please post all information, experiences (both good and bad), pricing, places to purchase, modifications, SWAP PROJECTS { }, and any and all other 5.0 MOD block-related details/information on this thread.
This thread is intended to work as the 5.4 SWAP thread does. Hopefully this will be a good reference point for those of us out there that will be tackling this type of mod using the 5.0 MOD blocks and may assist those (like myself) who are contemplating a MOD swap to either a 5.0 big-bore or a 5.4 engine.
Trans adaptations for both of these motors are welcome, but please try to remember this is at heart a SWAP THREAD for the SOHC and DOHC engines (not the pushrod engines) utilizing either the 2-V, 3-V, or 4-V heads.
Since the blocks are still new the popularity may not be all that much yet, but given time I think these projects will multiply in number. It may be a slow start, but at least it's getting started.
FOLKS PLEASE ENJOY ~ GOOD LUCK !!!
#3
My Apologies ... :~((
Sorry, I hit the send button and the computer froze. It seemed as it had not posted anything so I rebooted and sent it again. Obviously, there was a delayed reaction on the first post and it actually posted twice. What can I say ... I already had all the backyard squirrels pedaling as fast as they could ... ???
#4
Selection of Cranks from Lunati
This is from page #128 of the March 2009 issue of MUSCLE MUSTANGS & FAST FORDS magazine, from the LUNATI advertisement on that page:
Ford 4.6 Destroker: 3.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3350 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Standard: 3.543 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3543 Price $792.47
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.750 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3750 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.800 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3800 Price $983.23
Ford 5.4 Destroker: 4.00 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4000 Price $983.23
Ford 5.4 Standard 4.165 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4165 Price $792.47
Ford 5.4 Stroker 4.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4350 Price $983.23
Stated also is they are all 8-bolt flange cranks and the journals are “fillet rolled” for better oiling and they will all work in 2-V, 3-V, and 4-V engines.
Phone: 662-892-1500 www.lunatipower.com
Ford 4.6 Destroker: 3.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3350 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Standard: 3.543 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3543 Price $792.47
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.750 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3750 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.800 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3800 Price $983.23
Ford 5.4 Destroker: 4.00 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4000 Price $983.23
Ford 5.4 Standard 4.165 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4165 Price $792.47
Ford 5.4 Stroker 4.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4350 Price $983.23
Stated also is they are all 8-bolt flange cranks and the journals are “fillet rolled” for better oiling and they will all work in 2-V, 3-V, and 4-V engines.
Phone: 662-892-1500 www.lunatipower.com
#8
NEW 5.0 BOSS CAST IRON BLOCK
This Brand new block cast at the Cleveland plant gives you a healty .4 liters more than a factory block while still using the factory stroke crank shaft!
Add a MMR Stroker crank and you have up to 324 Cubic Inches/5.3 liters of Modular Muscle! ALL 96-2008 2V, 3V and 4V heads bolt right on!
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9778
or
5.0 Aluminum Big Bore Block http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10750
Big bore 4.6L aluminum block with cast in iron liners
94mm (3.70") cylinder bore size. Stock cylinder bore size 90.2mm (3.552")
227mm (8.9370") deck height (same as 4.6L)
Produces 5.0L displacement when used with a 4.6L stock stroke crankshaft, stock length connecting rods and custom 94mm-diameter pistons.
Cross bolted main bearing caps
Same block that is used in the 5.0L "Cammer" crate engine. Can be used in ALL 2V 3V and 4V applications
This Brand new block cast at the Cleveland plant gives you a healty .4 liters more than a factory block while still using the factory stroke crank shaft!
Add a MMR Stroker crank and you have up to 324 Cubic Inches/5.3 liters of Modular Muscle! ALL 96-2008 2V, 3V and 4V heads bolt right on!
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9778
or
5.0 Aluminum Big Bore Block http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10750
Big bore 4.6L aluminum block with cast in iron liners
94mm (3.70") cylinder bore size. Stock cylinder bore size 90.2mm (3.552")
227mm (8.9370") deck height (same as 4.6L)
Produces 5.0L displacement when used with a 4.6L stock stroke crankshaft, stock length connecting rods and custom 94mm-diameter pistons.
Cross bolted main bearing caps
Same block that is used in the 5.0L "Cammer" crate engine. Can be used in ALL 2V 3V and 4V applications
Last edited by Teufelshunde3/5; 07-05-2009 at 02:55 AM.
#10
That's the rumor but what all is involved with it still has yet to be confirmed. I know I wont be buying the BUTT-UGLY 2011 just to get it. I'll build my own motor and put it in something esle.
#12
Back In Town Next Week
Just thought I'd bump the thread. Been out of town for the last 2 weeks and haven't had much internet access as I do at home. Things will be back to normal next Saturday and I'll continue the research for those interested.
#15
Well my exact setup is going to be a set of cobra heads and a kennebell and i want to take it to the mx so i dot know maybe 25-30 ??? Also what bottom end kit do you reccommend for me because i have to eliminate my bottom end now for boost because i have everything built n/a with the sohc heads ?
#16
o-ring time.
Aluminum blocks have sleeves to start with. Replacing them is not fun or cheap but is possible. Either a real Teksid aluminum block or an iron block should be able to take whatever you want to toss at it. The idea of running 30lbs of boost through a 4v makes for about 1000hp so you're going to need to talk to an engine builder not a bunch of dumbasses on the internet for the finer points. I'd really suggest contacting Al Papito at Boss330 Racing. He can actually help make it happen.
Since you have a built bottom end already I'd use it as much as possible. The 4v heads are 53cc while 2v PI heads are 44cc so you'll drop the compression a bit (about a full point). Without knowing exactly what you have now though I can't say if it'll be enough to deal with the boost. You'll have to run race gas at those boost levels anyway. If you have flat top pistons you can usually have a dish machined into them for any extra compression droppy action you need.
Aluminum blocks have sleeves to start with. Replacing them is not fun or cheap but is possible. Either a real Teksid aluminum block or an iron block should be able to take whatever you want to toss at it. The idea of running 30lbs of boost through a 4v makes for about 1000hp so you're going to need to talk to an engine builder not a bunch of dumbasses on the internet for the finer points. I'd really suggest contacting Al Papito at Boss330 Racing. He can actually help make it happen.
Since you have a built bottom end already I'd use it as much as possible. The 4v heads are 53cc while 2v PI heads are 44cc so you'll drop the compression a bit (about a full point). Without knowing exactly what you have now though I can't say if it'll be enough to deal with the boost. You'll have to run race gas at those boost levels anyway. If you have flat top pistons you can usually have a dish machined into them for any extra compression droppy action you need.
#17
Wel i got another 4.6 cast iron block lying around from my stock setup , what you think i shoud do because i like the aluminum as to weigt differene but i know cast is stronger but ive been told a nice set of sleeves will handle also w.e i feel like dumping in it. So im not sure what to do but i want this badboy to run. I have gt40 fuel pump so i dont think i need any more fuel unless maybe a kb boost-a-pump , i have an a bigger rail and am getting 60lb injectors so u think with gas il be ok ?
#18
30lbs in a 4v.. you're going to need a whole different kind of fuel system than your car came with. A1000, twin filters, return style conversion, about 1200 bucks in AN hoses and fittings, FPR, billet rails, 80lb injectors, sumped tank, c16 race gas.
Definitely should talk to Al.
Definitely should talk to Al.
#19
ok so then by any chance would you know who sells a fuel rail to work with the kennebell 2.8 because all that i have seen have exceptions for this supercharger ? and also what would i ave to do with my stock wiring and hoses to the tank ? do i have to just eliminate them ?
Last edited by BumbleBee04GT; 07-22-2009 at 11:13 AM.
#20
Need More Basic Information
Aluminum block VS iron block ... ???
I think what you need to state first is the extent of your use and build; is this motor for the street (only), strip (only), or "street/strip" ... ???
30 lbs. of boost on the street is extreme by some standards.
This is my answer thus far ... If I was to use an aluminum block for the street (any street use) I wouldn't push the boost/HP/torque any further than FORD recommends modifying their block using the FRPP bolt-ons ... DESIGNED FOR USE WITH FORD ALUMINUM BLOCKS.
On the other hand ... I'm sure the iron block could handle anything the aluminum block can (strength-for-strength), yet would be more weight ... BUT ... You may not be able to say the same for the aluminum block (vice-versa).
I'm still researching the pro(s) / con(s) of using either - or, and plan on calling FORD to probe their minds when I return home next week. Once I get an answer, I'll post the information on here.
I think what you need to state first is the extent of your use and build; is this motor for the street (only), strip (only), or "street/strip" ... ???
30 lbs. of boost on the street is extreme by some standards.
This is my answer thus far ... If I was to use an aluminum block for the street (any street use) I wouldn't push the boost/HP/torque any further than FORD recommends modifying their block using the FRPP bolt-ons ... DESIGNED FOR USE WITH FORD ALUMINUM BLOCKS.
On the other hand ... I'm sure the iron block could handle anything the aluminum block can (strength-for-strength), yet would be more weight ... BUT ... You may not be able to say the same for the aluminum block (vice-versa).
I'm still researching the pro(s) / con(s) of using either - or, and plan on calling FORD to probe their minds when I return home next week. Once I get an answer, I'll post the information on here.
#21
well ok i want to take my gt to the extreme i have two block which i why i ask which would be better for the build im getting into. i know 30 lbs is crazy for street but im going to get several tunes so i can us what i need at the appropriate time. and yes this is going to be strip and every now and then street so im not worried about mileage and either way which ever block i choose to go with im going with full internals so i dont have to worry later on about wear and tear that they already have.
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