Has anyone used these? .532"/.532" & 220*/224* on a 114* LSA/40* Overlap. Considering for a torquey type of increase, not high revving power, stock gear type use on the interstate. THX!

 

Id go with the Crower stage 1's instead for your application.

 

Hey Dan, please be more specific. Stage 1 for npi or pi heads? These are stage 2's for npi heads though I have a '99 with, of course, PI heads. 220* intake duration seems quite mild compared to most manufacturers.
Some detail on your opinion would be appreciated.
PS: I have a '99 vert/automatic, 4.10's, 3400rpm stall converter with full lock at WOT, UDP's, SVO intake and SHM cams now. The SHM''s are going to be sold as they are too big for what I want. I may sell the SVO intake also especially if I go with a 5.4 motor. Even if I stay 4,,.6 I don't think the cam would be too big and certainly not with then extra 50 cubes a 5.4 would bring. Sorry I did not add this info at the beginning as I simply wanted to find somebody who had tried these cams. THX!

 

Just give us more details about the car you're looking to put these NPI cams in.

 

Did in the last post but here goes:

1. 4.6-stay with the 4.10 gears, SVO intake also, UDP's, 3400rpm stall/lock converter, 10.5:1 compression, forged rotating assemnly.

2. if 5.4 then- change gears to the stock 3.27's but keep the 3400rpm stall converter. Sell the SVO intake and go to a stock intake w/70mm TB/plenum, 10:1 compression.

Both motor's would have a DIY RAI/CAI. I am leaning towards the 5.4, just need to find a motor.

 

You're confusing the hell outta me man. In your original post it sounded like you were asking for cams for NPI heads and a car with stock gears. Now you're asking for cams for a stalled PI car with 4.10's?

Id look into Modular Powerhouse heads/ cams.

 

Sorry for the confusion. I never said npi in the original, just the cam specs. many guys run npi Comps in their PI's to get no PTV issues and a bit smaller cam and that is what I am doing.
Just compared to stock specs or even on Crower's site and remember I could go 4.6 or 5.4. Seems like the cam specs I listed are a good compromise and actually the 4.10's are coming out for the 3.27's either way, 4.6 or 5.4 as a highway car it will be. The converter is not for launching the car as at the track but for the WOT locks for wuicker passing.

 

You shouldnt have PTV issues if the cams are installed correctly. Some cams need to be degreed to prevent PTV because of the grind, but it depends on the manufacturer. For example, I had VT stage 2's in my car with no PTV issues, never got them degreed.

 

Dan, the PTV issue was an example of usingn a npi cam with pi heads. .570 lift and no PTV, great for you! My whole thing is the dissapointment with the 4.6 and this car. My best times were a 2.07 60' when I had a 3800rpm stall but a poor tune from BOC. So I (Alan!) lowered the stall to 3200/3400rpm. 4.10's, UDP's, CAI, PYPES catted X-pipe, PYPES catback(sold that and went original and am much happier-NO DRONE!). Added the SVO intake port matcxhed to PI heads and the SHM #2730 cams. Now I did not intend to use the SHM cams but Scott Cushman, brother of Jim Cushman, who owns the right to what was considered the primo modular cams(VT's), said the intake and the #2730's would work well together. They do, from 5000rpm and up! I have a stock motor! Automatic. I lost .4 with the cams and intake! It bogged so bad I had to put the 3400rpm converter back into the car, that put labor for converter changes to $1000. since now there were 3 changes! That got the car back to it's 14 flat 100pmh times/speed. A good automatic tune from Brenspeed( AT NO CHARGE W/2 CHANGES BECAUSE I BOUGFHT THE SCT FROM HIM 2 YEARS AGO!!!!!!) got me a 2.10, 13.82 and 101.8mph. Only the 3800rpm stall at 2.07 at 13.78 and 102.5 was better on a street likely downhill with a passport timer * That was woith 4.10's. By the time I get this motor rebuilt the V6 mustangs will be making 260-300HP! This car will never be quick NA, can't happen and quick to me is a 13.5 on streets, even the Nitto's I have as the streets. Not without several thousand bucks.
I decided to go for torque and change my whole goal. I have not been to the track in almost 30 years. Don't street race. Am not interested in soending $300./month on fuel.
So I will likely go with a 5.4 and TORQUE. Forged pistons and rods, 10:1 cxompression or as high as a small cam like the Crower stage 2 npi will allow as the high cylinder pressures from a small cam without enough overlap will cause PINGGgg!!!! Change the 4.10's to the stock 3.27's as I have read the 5.4 swaps with much over 3.73 just spin through the rpm range of 2 to 3 gears with 3.55 being the best gear so 3.27's since I sill have them. Sell the Steeda UDP's. Maybe sell the PYPES catted X-pipe as I already sold the PYPES catback and love the great sound of the stock exhaust and don't miss the 3whp the PYPES added for $350.
Since the 5.4 is for torque and about 5500rpm tops the SVO will not be needed. I went and did the coolant mod to it, very nice with Earls type fittings and a 3/8" hose from the back of the intake to the coolant crossover, found the SVO had bosses right where the COP"s would go(think Ford was thinking ahead?!) so I drilled and tapped for those and perfect. I have the coolant mod and COP's on the SVO! I am going to sell that and get the stock plastic with the aluminum crossover and use the stock 70mm TB/plenum on a 5.4. With the 3400rpm stall converter the car will still start rolling fine with 3.27's and 50+WTQ MORE than the 4.6. Ebay has forged flattops and rods with rings for $829. that
DROP 2LBS. from the rotating assembly. That should help it rev quicker also and stress the engine a bit less. If I get 260whp BUT 350WTQ I will have what I want, an interstate cruiser that I will have limited driving time with due tot the cost of fuel and 3 back surgeries that limit me to many less miles than I would pefer.
Just thought somebody would have used these Crowers over the last 5 years since there are a million Gt's on the road!
However since the stock PI cams have .504"/.531" & 200*/209* on the same 114* LSA that the cams I mentioned should do just fine for torque, rev to 5500rpm(6000 on a 4.6). The combo I mentioned with less gear(3.27/4.10), 50+WTQ more and the stock intake(power range from idle, SVO is more of a race piece) higher compression(polish the chambers/reduce hot spots) on heads ported for max velocity, not total flow, cooler stat and maybe a range cooler plug and I might even get better mileage than the 4.6 did which was 27mpg with the 4.10's before the SHM's and the SVO were added. Remember the converter is to get it rolling when needed but the locks will benefit mileage also.

Now my goal of 13.5 st/103 trap might be met with better mileage and overall driveability. habve to try something different or sell and go back to turbo cars where the cash I spent on the stang would have gotten a high 12 sec car with better mileage and better quality also, I LOVE Chrysler(Mitsubishi) Conquests! '88/'89's are amazing cars way ahead of their time and their $21k sticker in those years showed that!
I think I feel better! How about those cam specs now with everything out on the table? Mark

 

Mark, Ive discussed this with you on SEVERAL times on Modular Fords. All I can tell you is your 1/4 times are seriously off for your mods. Other then that, Im not sure I can help you.

 

Dan, #7 cylinder has 80-90# of cranking compression, the rest are between 120-140#, still low IMHO. So I believe #7 has a cracked ring, damaged ring land as oil squirted in raises the compression 30#. Same with the rest, oil helps. I guesss the 6500-7000rpm spins caused some ring flutter so the low compression? There is no listing for what the compression should be and even the cams should not knock it that low. That is why the question on the cam as I will either sell the car or rebuild a motor for it for next spring as cash allows.

I am close to getting that Teksid out and could do that or sell and use the funds for a 5.4 build. Remember I am not interested in track or 60' times but quick passing times, quick engine response from torque. I would prefer a 5.4 but have to find one at a decent cost to start with. They are not plentiful!

 

5.4, stage 1 ported PI heads with +1mm valves, flat top pistons, those crower cams you posted to start with would be great or xe262's, intake is up to you... you know my input there. Short tube FRPP headers will fit as is. You should pull at least 260/350 if not quite a bit more on one side or the other. There's no need to run a high stall converter since the motor builds 300+tq from 2500 onward. Gearing is important. With the auto 3.73's are probably your best bet.

there.... I actually thought about that.

 

For one I like this red background, sharp. I already ordered the Crowers. I also have he car up for sale as either way is the same to me, maybe less hasssle if it sells but I am not holding my breath as at $9995. even a low mileage convertible will have a hard time with the mods and all even. Crower says the cams are good to 6000 in a 4.6 nd less in the 5.4 so I should be fine with a 5.4 if/when I find one. I could use my beefed/modded stock converter and sell the Dirty Dog 10" 3400rpm stall, drop about 600rpm on the stall and get a solid 2800. REmember not into track or 60' but building an interstate cruiser. Last time I raced at the track was in '79.
I would likely sell the SVO in take for the needed cash. There are none on ebay so I have no idea to go by but if the trick flow is $799. and the SVO has the coolant mod and is a Ford part, well.....it should be desireable.
Sure would like a nice stock Conquest, '88/'89 though, even an automatic or a '65 Buick Skylark GS or an excellent standard Skylark. Always liked them, especially a vert.

 

Refresh my memory! Think the comression could be the issue? maybe the cams installed off, runs strong and a 13.78 at 102.5 is about the same as many with auto's and 3900lbs as I was loaded! I thought you were getting out of the Mustang scene back then due to the diminished returns yourself if i remember correctly?

 

I stopped modding my car because Im saving for something a lot better in the future, not any time soon, its going to take awhile.

Didnt realize you were at 3900lbs.

 

Don't blame you for something better. Soon the V6 will have more than 260HP and the 4.6 2V will be a dog, even more than now without a power adder. Some amazing vehicles coming out and better than the good ole days. Most would be surprised that the quickest car Motor Trend tested back in the 60's/70's was a Buick GS Stage 1 with only the Shelby Cobra and a tri-power Vette with 4.10's beating the buicks 13.31 et on streets and skinny too! I was a Buick guy owning 5 of them. Most muscle cars of that time were mid 14 second 95mph cars except for the elite of them. later

 

Dan and everyone who has offered advice for the last year I have found the problem. The shims supplied by SHM for the SHM cams were not required and in fact damaged the operation of the cams! I was getting cranking compressions of 120#-140# with a weak cylinder that today had 60# cold before a friend helped REMOVE the shims at the suggestion of JKUZ324 from ModularFords. Well we removed the shims from 2 cylinders and here is what happened. One that read 120# went to 170# and the one that read 60# went to 160#!!! Praise the Lord and the good advice from John! When I replace the lifters and rockers I will report the results! Thanks again to all. Mark

 

So the shims that were for regrinds but were installed installed with cams that were not regrinds? Who installed the shims?

 

According to Scott Cushman, who worked for SHM, the early cams were ground with a small base circle and apparently I got an early set. They came with .050" SHIMS. After doing some measureing I bought some .015" shims and the ticking on the bank I removed the shims from is gone but the vacuum and the car not stalling soeasily or even at all is back to where I would expect. 15" of vacuum AND AS STATED NO STALLING. nOW TO DOI THE OTHER BANK AND THEN GET IN A RUN AND SEE IF A COUPLE OF TENTHS ARE PICKED UP. Sorrry for the caps, tired. Mark