pwnt

 

your last post was nothing but contradiction. Try something closer to true discourse based on opposing views of a proposition. And yeah... I knows me some english. But I didn't have to google it.

 

Looks to me like Mr. Moderator got pwnt and didn't like it. LOL

 

Just a quick rehash of this discussion.

Your initial incorrect claim:
Now who started off with the poor attitude here?

Who has provided hard, verifiable facts here and who hasn't? Who makes less than 300 rwhp with aftermarket heads and cams and who doesn't? Who has to resort to deleting posts to salvage their argument?

Sorry r3d, I've been familiar for Aristotle's artistic proofs since Jr. High.

Meanwhile, I'll be driving around in my "stockish" N/A 4.6 4V making 20% more power than your heads/cams/bottom end 5.5 2V with only 84% of the displacement. But hey, you've got it all figured out, I'm just a "newb" after all.

 

I like how this thread was originally about jack and how he was debating an engine modification for his mustang. But has barreled off subject to simple known facts about 4v engines and trying to compare them to unknown facts about the 5.4 2v's that have yet to show their full potential because of little support from little performance mods in existence. So basically what i am saying to people is that you cant make rash decision to beat down something that hasnt grown up.
Or you can just disregard anything i jst said because i am a nemb =)

 

The "simple known facts about the 4V" aren't so simple or so known it seems.

 

It is a known fact that the 4vs can make some pretty good gains with little effort, that is pretty known especially from a guy like me that hasnt been around the block that long.
I just think it is funny how you talk about the 4v's like you have something to prove. My point is far from challenging your opinion that the 4v's are a well built powerful engine which is KNOWN. You just can't come into a random thread and start challenging moderators saying you know more about the 4v's then they do (not saying you dont). It would be alot more practical for you to just make your own thread about 4v vs 2v's. And there is really nothing else to discuss. Jack wants to do something different for power gains that is in his price range which would be a 5.4 swap unless he could find a 4v for cheap. End of story.
By all means im not challenging you but go spam in your own thread about your 4v knowledge.

 

lol. his e-dick has been challanged, he is gonna sit here and spew this crap and troll the **** out of my thread untill he is blue in the face


and in the end, we will all still consider him a jackass.


Good job Avr8gwhatever

 

This guy must be an 01 Cobra owner they tend to have the my 4v is better than everything attitude....I'm hoping he's not a mach owner cause as a former mach owner I'd be disappointed with the attitude.

Jack, cams and other supporting mods isn't a bad way to go. You can get around 280-300rwhp with the right combo and that's not really much more than a mach engine with basic bolt ons. I think the only thing that you might not be able to match is the torque. I had 330rwtq with basic bolt ons with my mach, not sure if the 2v can match that....maybe they can I don't know.

 

I have about $200 in my 5.4 swap , what did the 4v you installed cost in the end? R3d or noone else in this thread is saying the 5.4 will make more power than the 4.6 4v will. We are saying that this engine has not been given a fair shake na and do not know what the limits are. BUT as far as $$ is concerned, this one kicks sand in the face of any other option out there. Going by your logic you would be nuts to swap in a 4.6 4v instead of a 5.4 4v.

 

If anyone in this thread would have actually read my posts, they would understand that my entire point of posting in this thread was to address r3dn3ck's blatanly incorrect statement. Jacktheripper eventually chimed with with a few incorrect statements of his own, so those were addressed as well. Please take note how many personal attacks I have made versus r3dn3ck and Jacktheripper.

- I did not come here to bash the 5.4 2V.
- I did not come here to say the 5.4 2V swap was an ineffective swap.
- I did not come here to espouse the 4.6 4V.
- I DID come here to address an incorrect statement, nothing more, nothing less.

I'm going to say this one more time:
A 5.4 2V swap won't make the same power as a "stockish" 4.6 4V, and damn sure won't make 15-20 hp/tq more than a "stockish" 4.6 4V with the HPS intake.
Why do I say that? Because stock long-block, stock cammed, stock intake (i.e. "stockish") 4.6 4Vs have made over 340 rwhp. Try that with a 5.4 2V.
R3d3ck himself has admitted a 5.4 2V with stock PI heads will not exceed 315 rwhp. That's the end of the debate right there; knowingly or not, he admitted his initial statement was wrong.

 

JackTheRipper, if you really want cheap horsepower, maybe you should look at a carb'd 302 with E7s and an E303 cam. I hear they make the same HP as a "stockish" 4.6 4V too.

 

Please explain to me how a wet kit is "safer" when it pumps fuel through an EFI intake that was designed to flow nothing but air and requires an additional fuel line in the engine compartment?

Yeah, that's really safer than a N2O kit that adds the additional fuel through the PCM and pre-existing fuel injectors. Betcha didn't know you can eliminate the returnless lean spike with a dry kit and a good tune either.

 

Don't you have to rewire the car to accept the 4v if you replace a 2v with a 4v? That adds to the cost as well unless you have the time and patience to rewire it yourself.

 

Lets see, where to start with you. I guess you didnt see where I said aside from the intake, its safer, BUT spray 3200+ you are completly free of any chance of a backfire PERIOD(unless you hit the rev limiter). You are relying on your PCM to add the extra pressure, and thats just not reliable enough when spraying a decent ammount. I have witnessed NUMEROUS blown engines due to the ECU not adding the extra fuel when "it just worked the other day". And betcha didnt realize you can elimanate the lean spike with a wetkit either by running a longer n20 line and shorter fuel line. You can run circles around me on a 4v swap(as of right now, that will soon be changed) just please dont think you will ever outsmart me on a power adder bud.

 

Varying the fuel line and N2O line length does address the lean spike to a degree, never said it didn't. However, you're still spraying fuel through an EFI intake, you still need that extra fuel line in the engine bay and you will still have a lean spike, albeit a manageable one. OTOH, a properly setup dry kit will have a RICH spike. Another plus, I've never seen a car burn to the ground with a dry kit, I've seen seeral burn to the ground due to a wet kit.

Spraying nitrous above 3,600 rpm does not always prevent fuel puddling in the intake. What happens when you do finally see that blue moon backfire, the intake explodes and some of the intake shrapnel catches the fuel line going to the fuel solenoid?

Ever wonder about that?

Wonder no longer...



Stand alone fuel systems are the way to go with wet kits on returnless cars. But that doesn't address the inherent problems of the wet kit and won't prevent the above.

 

You have to extend the coil wires and the coolant temp sensor.

 

So basicly what your saying is a turbo is a bad idea also because 1. there are a lot of cases each year where the oil feed line comes off or breaks coating the header and burning the car to the ground and 2. you introduce a larger, handmade(a lot of times by an ameture) fuel line in a non stock location?
Get over yourself, anytime you do any modification to a car if its not installed/used correctly **** can happen, you posting a pic of a burnt down car is useless when trying to compare which kit is safer PERIOD.
You found one pic of a burnt down car, I bet i can go find thousands upon thousands of blown engines due to a dry kit. Bet I can find numerous pics of cars burnt to the ground due to turbo kits. Quick q, do you have nitrous on your swaped car? Have you ever used nitrous? Have you ever installed in on roughly 25 of your vehicles? Have you installed maybe 50 kits? My guess is no to most of those, you are relying on internet stories.

 

Nope... mr moderator doesn't like poor quality argument. Your idea of a stockish 4v is funny but we'll leave it there. You can continue bantering with the boys.

Tell me... what did your 5.4 make?

 

No, I am not basically saying anything of that sort. Turbos don't introduce fuel into a part that was specifically designed to flow AIR.

I don't know about you, but I can build/install a turbo kit for an SN95 Modular car that is as safe as stock. I can't make the same claim for a wet kit with an EFI manifold, and neither can you or anyone else. Distinct difference.

The wet kit has an inherent flaw that can result in the above pic regardless of installation/user error. Spraying above 4,000 rpm will NOT elimiate fuel puddling issues present in the majority EFI intakes 100% of the time. PERIOD.

Yes.

Yes.

No. I haven't owned 25 vehicles.

More. How many engines have you known that have blown an engine with a properly setup, properly tuned dry kit. I'm not talking about spraying a 300 shot on a stock short block either. It's pretty clear you're the one relying on internet myth and rumor here. It's the easier, typically cheaper, and more dangerous method. That's precisely why most newbs/shadetrees are pro-wet kit.

 

I'm sure that's the reason you edited my post.

 

I prefer dry kits for most street cars 1, cuz it limits the shot size and 2, it's easier for newbs to install. Race cars, well that's normally wet but there are those few oddballs.

And yes, that's exactly the reason. If you want to keep posting I suggest you add a little respect to your tone there sparky.

 

So wait a minuite, since I build 99% of my own parts(actually have to buy some of them), you think I rely on internet myths? Young boy you have a lot to learn. Shoot me a PM when your dry kit removes the internals of that engine, if your spraying anything over 100hp.

 

Dude, where has this thread gone?

Oh thats right. Some assclown decided to barge in and start running his mouth.

now the thread is on nitrous discussion.

WTF does nitous have to do with my checking to see what all is involved with a 4.6l 32v swap?

AV8RGT. Feel free to leave my thread, yer a pain in the ***.


When it comes to a cost perspective, which i have repeatedly mentions IS an issue, you seem to just start dropping brain cells left and right and turning into a blabbering idiot and not paying attention. All you seem interested is showing off the size of yer e-dick, seriously, get a life.

When it comes to an overall power app, yeah, yer probably right, however, once again, let me repeatmyself.. again... COST IS AN ISSUE. Quite frankly for the cost factor alone you cant beat putting in a 5.4l 2v.

Ahhhhhhh Gads my brain hurts! Why is that so hard for you to figure out?

But no matter what, yer a total jackass regardless and really oughtta try working on those interpersonal skills. Maybe you can find a friend that can carry on a conversation than that engine block with a wig and face painted on.

Im gonna have to import this over from my forum board, i try to keep it there strictly, and ill probably get hell from the other mods, but dammit, you deserve this.

THIS IS FOR YOU AVR8

 

You are relying on internet myths, it's pretty damn obvious. What parts do you build yourself? What have you accomplished with your car?

 

Ok, fine. Here you go. Not sure why I'm doing this seeing as how you've been a real ***** in this thread.

Not much.

Try Greenleaf auto, they have connections with ford and get many low mileage engines directly from them. They will also come off of their listed prices. I bought a 0 mile 4V from them for $2100 shipped to my door, the engine was listed at $2800 on their site.

Yes. The auto mach and aviator engines have a 6 bolt cast crank that will allow you to reuse your stock 04 GT flexplate, 5-speed Machs have an 8 bolt forged crank that will require an 8-bolt flexplate. 99/00 GTs and some 5.4 trucks used 4R70Ws/4R75 with 8 bolt crank. Those flexplates will work.

Retune is required. You will need to extend your cop wires and a couple sensors. Gt cpu will work fine. You will not have knock sensors which is a plus when add things like long tubes. No that isn't a typo.

timing cover, coolant crossover, power steering pump position are different. all mach and cobra parts will bolt right up.

headers, if you want them. oil filter relocation kit if you are running certain brands of tubular ks. if you go with an aviator engine and you want the mach/cobra intake you'll need the mach/cobra coolant crossover, throttle/cc cable brackets, cables, and mach/cobra fuel rails. All your gt accessories will work fine.

i might consider ditching those crap nylon timing chain tensioners. LTs headers are always a big plus.

The same.

 

Are you serious? Why don't scroll up to post #41, read it, then rethink this post.

Here, I'll save you the trouble.

And to further that, I did not come here to persuade or you or anyone else to do the 4V swap OR dissuade you from doing the 5.4 2V swap.

I posted in this thread because of this comment:
Do you not understand that I've never claimed the 4V swap was easier or cheaper the 5.4 2V swap? Do you not understand that I didn't post in this thread to convince you or anyone else to perform the 4V swap? As I've already told you, I don't care what you do to your car.

You're the one who is having a hard time figuring things out. You seem so focused on this "e-dick" that you can't understand anyting I say or any points I try to make.

I have enough friends in life, thank you very much. I don't get on internet message boards to make "e-friends." I get on these message boards to provide information, and hopefully to learn something as well.

Pathetic.

 

yeah i just kinda glazed over ignore the rest of that cause i really dont give 2 craps about anything that comes out of yer ***.
arent you dont yet?

 

R3d, can you just lock this thread? im really tired of this homo asshat ruining it.

thanks!

 

Don't you love when people spam the **** out your thread to keep their ego up?