Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.

Cams = Winter Project

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 10-18-2007, 01:12 PM
mpt_1962's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Twentynine Palms, CA
Posts: 1,041
Default

Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Just turn the motor to TDC each time.
might be a dumb question, but i need to know for when i do my cam swap...How do you know when its at TDC? I know my mechanic knows but im going to be doing most of the work myself with his oversight and i dont know how to tell.
 
  #32  
Old 10-18-2007, 02:13 PM
bassman97's Avatar
blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 2,451
Default

I believe there's a TDC mark on the timing cover so that'll tell you TDC for cylinder one. For the others, you need to make a piston stop (bolt w/ the same threads as a spark plug) that you screw in where the spark plug goes and then you turn the engine over until the piston touches the stop.
 
  #33  
Old 10-18-2007, 02:18 PM
mpt_1962's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Twentynine Palms, CA
Posts: 1,041
Default

but you can do the installation without doing the TDC method right? Just make sure to keep the pressure around 150 right?
 
  #34  
Old 10-18-2007, 03:09 PM
spike_africa's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando,Florida
Posts: 11,974
Default

Simpley put since the cams are out of the motor at this point you can just move the piston in cylinder your working on to the top. Trust me this is such a easy step to do for the saftey of a dropping a valve.

Do you really want to post on here "how do i pull my heads off and are my bolts reusable?". Not worth it.
 
  #35  
Old 10-18-2007, 03:36 PM
mpt_1962's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Twentynine Palms, CA
Posts: 1,041
Default

so just turn the crank until TDC...but when you screw in the bolt, how far are you supposed to screw it in? How do you know when the bolt is in as far as the plug would be? Sorry if im asking too many questions, but its helping me and GreRrg out...i really dont want to make the post "damn, i dropped a valve..HELP"
 
  #36  
Old 10-18-2007, 03:43 PM
r3dn3ck's Avatar
Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Default

Stick a screwdriver or a long wooden dowel down the spark plug hole after removing the spark plug and turn the crank. When the dowel/screwdriver is as high up as it'll go, you're at TDC-ish. Valve won't drop through. After you finish 1 cylinder, do the next the same way.
 
  #37  
Old 10-18-2007, 04:06 PM
stanger00's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Pinole, Ca
Posts: 3,842
Default

Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
Stick a screwdriver or a long wooden dowel down the spark plug hole after removing the spark plug and turn the crank. When the dowel/screwdriver is as high up as it'll go, you're at TDC-ish. Valve won't drop through. After you finish 1 cylinder, do the next the same way.
this is the most primitive way but it works. just turn the crank till the stick or screw driver stops movin and your at TDC.
 
  #38  
Old 10-18-2007, 04:11 PM
mpt_1962's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Twentynine Palms, CA
Posts: 1,041
Default

ok cool...thats sounds alot easier than the bolt method...THANK YOU! Man the days are going slow as hell now out here. I just want to get home, be with the wife, get the new on base house going and get the CAR FINISHED!! lol
 
  #39  
Old 10-18-2007, 04:21 PM
03gtmustang's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Va
Posts: 3,440
Default

Exactly.
 
  #40  
Old 10-18-2007, 07:05 PM
GerRrg281's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 53
Default

do you need to remove the fuel rails to remove the COP's?

i looked on ALL-DATA and it says you don't have to

Csledd did it though....i think i will try to remove the least amount of parts as i can....haha
 
  #41  
Old 10-18-2007, 07:59 PM
spike_africa's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando,Florida
Posts: 11,974
Default

Nope they will come out from under them without removal.
 
  #42  
Old 10-18-2007, 08:07 PM
GerRrg281's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 53
Default

Originally Posted by spike_africa
Nope they will come out from under them without removal.
 
  #43  
Old 10-18-2007, 10:33 PM
yellowstang99's Avatar
35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 637
Default

I used a compression testing kit and pumped air into the cylinders to hold the valves up when I did my cams. It worked fine as well as the TDC method. COP's come out fine without removing fuel rails.
 
  #44  
Old 10-19-2007, 09:17 AM
B-rett's Avatar
BMC Member# 03209
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: north ridgeville, ohio
Posts: 1,735
Default

Originally Posted by GerRrg281
do you need to remove the fuel rails to remove the COP's?

i looked on ALL-DATA and it says you don't have to

Csledd did it though....i think i will try to remove the least amount of parts as i can....haha
i removed mine they are easy to get off
 
  #45  
Old 11-18-2007, 08:26 AM
csledd's Avatar
DSG!!!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Paducah, KY
Posts: 3,159
Default

To help clarify..

I did a lot of things that wasn't necessary during the install. I had planned for my car to be down for an entire week, and wanted to take my time and have as much stuff out of the way as possible. Which is why I did some of the things I did
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ClemsonStang
Pictures
22
01-22-2007 12:24 PM
94IVGT
5.0L Tech
2
11-18-2006 06:21 PM
97stanger
Modular 4.6L Tech
22
11-04-2006 01:18 PM
roushrider81
The Lounge
6
09-14-2006 04:55 PM
roushrider81
The Lounge
10
09-14-2006 03:46 PM



Quick Reply: Cams = Winter Project



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:20 AM.