Best N/a Stang Possible
#31
06-15-2005 | 06:45 PM
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Listen to reggae.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,698
From: Colorado Springs
Originally Posted by Lightning247
Front tubular K-member suspension is perfectly fine for daily driver. Just go with QA1, MM, Griggs, PA, or AJE setups. If your going to do that you may as well get Tubular Control Arms, and coilovers for the front.
As far as the Fast N/A it sounds like your set on sticking with the 2V. It's not too bad a route to take with cams, P-51 intake , longtubes, tune etc. But again you're only going to be in the ballpark area of around 300rwhp. It'll make for a fun ride but that's a heck of a lot of money to be dropping for just ~300 hp.
Have you thought about doing a 4V headswap? It'd be unique (although 4V swap GT's are becoming more popular) and it would be moderately inexpensive. It's easy to pick up 4V heads nowadays because of people (including myself) upgrading to the 03/04 Cobra heads or FR500 heads and the like and selling the stock heads/intake manifold to offset the cost.
You could pick up everything needed for a 4V swap into your GT (minus the tune) for less then $1,000. And for the amount of money you're looking at dropping on a P-51 intake, Cams, longtubes (cost the same whether 2v/4v) You could probably get a set of 99/01 Cobra C Heads (Tumble port) ~ $400-500, Lincoln Aviator intake manifold (new take offs are around $350...junkyard for much less.), stock Mach 1 or 99/01 cams, longtubes, and port the heads and make close to 310rwhp.
Now if you bought some 4V cams, ported heads and intake, longtubes, pullies, tune you'd be near 350-360rwhp. So say you spent $3,000 just on these parts alone you'd make as much if not a little more then you would with a supercharged 2V....and that's with a N/A 4V motor. Throw on a $500 nitrous kit and you're looking at 460 rwhp and maybe 550+ lb feet of tq.
There's a ton of routes you can take man...just surf as many forums as you can. Study your options, research before you spend your money...and ask questions. Knowledge is power.
Hope that helps.
Philip K.
As far as the Fast N/A it sounds like your set on sticking with the 2V. It's not too bad a route to take with cams, P-51 intake , longtubes, tune etc. But again you're only going to be in the ballpark area of around 300rwhp. It'll make for a fun ride but that's a heck of a lot of money to be dropping for just ~300 hp.
Have you thought about doing a 4V headswap? It'd be unique (although 4V swap GT's are becoming more popular) and it would be moderately inexpensive. It's easy to pick up 4V heads nowadays because of people (including myself) upgrading to the 03/04 Cobra heads or FR500 heads and the like and selling the stock heads/intake manifold to offset the cost.
You could pick up everything needed for a 4V swap into your GT (minus the tune) for less then $1,000. And for the amount of money you're looking at dropping on a P-51 intake, Cams, longtubes (cost the same whether 2v/4v) You could probably get a set of 99/01 Cobra C Heads (Tumble port) ~ $400-500, Lincoln Aviator intake manifold (new take offs are around $350...junkyard for much less.), stock Mach 1 or 99/01 cams, longtubes, and port the heads and make close to 310rwhp.
Now if you bought some 4V cams, ported heads and intake, longtubes, pullies, tune you'd be near 350-360rwhp. So say you spent $3,000 just on these parts alone you'd make as much if not a little more then you would with a supercharged 2V....and that's with a N/A 4V motor. Throw on a $500 nitrous kit and you're looking at 460 rwhp and maybe 550+ lb feet of tq.
There's a ton of routes you can take man...just surf as many forums as you can. Study your options, research before you spend your money...and ask questions. Knowledge is power.
Hope that helps.
Philip K.
#32
06-15-2005 | 11:05 PM
Huge Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 233
From: Charlotte/ Winston Salem, NC
No problem, just trying to get some options out there. There are a million ways to skin a cat, as are a hundred ways to make any car fast.
I think that having a ***** out 2V n/a car is comendable. It's something that's difficult, but not impossible...and gratifying. Many unsuspecting LS1's STI's/ Evo's would never see the a$$ whoopin' coming.
To get you started (or anyone else that may be interested) here's the start of some legwork for you.
Start Here 98 4V heads on 98 gt
This is the get you started. A good point is made here. It may be better to purchase a crate motor...then sell your stock motor to offset cost. I'm not sure how mechanically sound you are, or if you'd have shop do the work. From the looks of what you're bolt on's would be...you'd be approaching the cost of a motor to put in your car. If you search around Junkyards and even the Corral parts classifieds
Swapping DOHC 4.6 into V6 convertible
(Similar to your situation...may be a good read...good links in thread)
5.4 L swap 2V or 4V
There is something to cook your noodle. While you have to go through the trouble of doing a motor swap....why not just go the 5.4L route? You could get 2V or 4V. A motor from a lincoln navigator (2000-2002) has great 4V heads, decent cams, and you could find a crate motor from a junkyard or something noooo problem. Now we're talking over 400 rwhp with just some nice bolt ons and decent heads and a tune. Throw on some nitrous and you could near 600 hp and 600+ lb feet of trq.
Al Papitto's Ford GT Aluminum Block race motor
Grab a six pack and a bucket of popcorn for that thread....it's a long one. Al is probably the current expert on all things Ford V8 DOHC. If you're serious about it he may be worth asking some questions about the swap. But he's a busy man.
Anyway, I hope that helps. It's not going to be a cakewalk. But it isn't difficult if you get your ducks in a row and do your research. Id suggest joining the Corral....or at least surfing alot. And find out as much as you can. And find a good tuner.
Philip K.
I think that having a ***** out 2V n/a car is comendable. It's something that's difficult, but not impossible...and gratifying. Many unsuspecting LS1's STI's/ Evo's would never see the a$$ whoopin' coming.
To get you started (or anyone else that may be interested) here's the start of some legwork for you.
Start Here 98 4V heads on 98 gt
This is the get you started. A good point is made here. It may be better to purchase a crate motor...then sell your stock motor to offset cost. I'm not sure how mechanically sound you are, or if you'd have shop do the work. From the looks of what you're bolt on's would be...you'd be approaching the cost of a motor to put in your car. If you search around Junkyards and even the Corral parts classifieds
Swapping DOHC 4.6 into V6 convertible
(Similar to your situation...may be a good read...good links in thread)
5.4 L swap 2V or 4V
There is something to cook your noodle. While you have to go through the trouble of doing a motor swap....why not just go the 5.4L route? You could get 2V or 4V. A motor from a lincoln navigator (2000-2002) has great 4V heads, decent cams, and you could find a crate motor from a junkyard or something noooo problem. Now we're talking over 400 rwhp with just some nice bolt ons and decent heads and a tune. Throw on some nitrous and you could near 600 hp and 600+ lb feet of trq.
Al Papitto's Ford GT Aluminum Block race motor
Grab a six pack and a bucket of popcorn for that thread....it's a long one. Al is probably the current expert on all things Ford V8 DOHC. If you're serious about it he may be worth asking some questions about the swap. But he's a busy man.
Anyway, I hope that helps. It's not going to be a cakewalk. But it isn't difficult if you get your ducks in a row and do your research. Id suggest joining the Corral....or at least surfing alot. And find out as much as you can. And find a good tuner.
Philip K.
#34
06-16-2005 | 05:58 AM
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,075
Like others have stated you need to do some work on the your block unless you are going to run low boost. I think its not worth the hassle to add a 4v head and if it was Im sure it would of been done by many stang owners already.
#35
06-16-2005 | 06:12 AM
Huge Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 233
From: Charlotte/ Winston Salem, NC
Just adding the 4V cylinder heads requires some other parts such as the front accessory cover, accessories, thermostat housings, all the plumbing, computer (to control IMRC) and ease of tuning, new exhaust manifolds ( 4V heads have a different port shape and bolt pattern then their 2V counterparts.) etc. etc.
But again, you're talking about dropping alot of money on bolt ons for your GT. And at 300rwhp you'd be close to maxing out the N/A capabilities on stock displacement, where as all out N/A 4.6L motors stock displacement are in the area of 360+rwhp. and a 5.4L application in the mid 400's.
Have you thought about just running nitrous? When set up and used properly nitrous is perfectly safe and very effective. Something to look into also.
But as the above post states if you are planning on running boost on any particular motor combination you need forged internals (8-Bolt Cobra crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings) and all the proper machine work. I'm not sure how the GT's are compared to the Cobra's...but the 4V loves compression even with boost. It is not uncommon to have Centri-blown 4V's run 10:1 compression on pump gas for the street. The most important thing with any motor combination is the Tune...make sure it's good.
But again, you're talking about dropping alot of money on bolt ons for your GT. And at 300rwhp you'd be close to maxing out the N/A capabilities on stock displacement, where as all out N/A 4.6L motors stock displacement are in the area of 360+rwhp. and a 5.4L application in the mid 400's.
Have you thought about just running nitrous? When set up and used properly nitrous is perfectly safe and very effective. Something to look into also.
But as the above post states if you are planning on running boost on any particular motor combination you need forged internals (8-Bolt Cobra crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings) and all the proper machine work. I'm not sure how the GT's are compared to the Cobra's...but the 4V loves compression even with boost. It is not uncommon to have Centri-blown 4V's run 10:1 compression on pump gas for the street. The most important thing with any motor combination is the Tune...make sure it's good.
#39
06-16-2005 | 02:45 PM
Ex Mini Smack King
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 868
From: St. Louis
I would do the VT stage 2's. Ported heads and the P51 are nice but kinda pricey for 30 additional hp.
Do some weight reduction like the k member and coil overs, dog bone, front sway bar, light weight battery for race season. Big power is great but you can go pretty darn fast in these cars with 275 rwhp. It's all a matter of setting up a good foundation to race. Traction, tune matching your gears, tires to your goals. You spend a little time and money on beefing up the rear end and some good suspension parts you will have much better results down the road when you make more power.
Do some weight reduction like the k member and coil overs, dog bone, front sway bar, light weight battery for race season. Big power is great but you can go pretty darn fast in these cars with 275 rwhp. It's all a matter of setting up a good foundation to race. Traction, tune matching your gears, tires to your goals. You spend a little time and money on beefing up the rear end and some good suspension parts you will have much better results down the road when you make more power.
#41
06-16-2005 | 05:54 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,075
Ill help you decide hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmblo wer.
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