forged internals & N/A???
#1
forged internals & N/A???
Noob question.....
Forged internals make a stronger engine are, but are there any advantages to having forged internals and staying N/A?
I'm assuming that if I forged my internals the compression would more than likely drop from 10:1:1 to about 8:5:1 (just a guess) and I would lose power, but is there a way to forge the internals and safely up the compression past the 10:1:1 ratio and gain power?
Forged internals make a stronger engine are, but are there any advantages to having forged internals and staying N/A?
I'm assuming that if I forged my internals the compression would more than likely drop from 10:1:1 to about 8:5:1 (just a guess) and I would lose power, but is there a way to forge the internals and safely up the compression past the 10:1:1 ratio and gain power?
#3
if you forge your internals you wont lower compression. Compression depends on what pistons you have, lower the compression= less power better for turbo supercharged cars, higher compression= more power NA. I have forged internals and Im NA, I have the highest compression without having to use race gas
forged internals = good less to worry about, your crank is already forged
forged internals = good less to worry about, your crank is already forged
#5
if you forge your internals you wont lower compression. Compression depends on what pistons you have, lower the compression= less power better for turbo supercharged cars, higher compression= more power NA. I have forged internals and Im NA, I have the highest compression without having to use race gas
forged internals = good less to worry about, your crank is already forged
forged internals = good less to worry about, your crank is already forged
#9
yes, some custom cams are designed to bleed some compession, some just loose some due to overlap. 11:1 is a good safe limit, but you'll always have to run 93 after that. if you're staying NA, or small shot nitrous, you can go with a nice lightweight I beam rod, instead of an H beam.
#10
forged goodies in the bottom end are just there to add strength. it will allow you to get your car up to the limit of its potential without as much risk of grenading it thanks to a weak link in the rotating assembly. It's not insurance it's just risk avoidance. Any power adder can be turned up on a motor properly built with forged parts far higher than it can on a motor built with cast parts. Our stock rods are forged... they're just not rated for the kind of power most guys will want to shove at them. They are forged from powdered metal which causes each grain of metal to weld to all its neighbors. Too bad they're not rated for nearly as much power as we want. In a more stout version they would be a great option.
My motor will be at 10.2-10.5:1 which is about as tall as you should go on california 91 octane gas. 11:1 would require a bit of adjustment to the tune at the expense of power so that a bad tank of gas wouldn't be a potential engine killer and it would make it very difficult to pass the sniffer.
If you can afford a forged shortblock... do it. There's no reason not to other than expense. Then we can slap a nitrous kit on your ride.
My motor will be at 10.2-10.5:1 which is about as tall as you should go on california 91 octane gas. 11:1 would require a bit of adjustment to the tune at the expense of power so that a bad tank of gas wouldn't be a potential engine killer and it would make it very difficult to pass the sniffer.
If you can afford a forged shortblock... do it. There's no reason not to other than expense. Then we can slap a nitrous kit on your ride.
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06-10-2009 03:46 PM