How much HP with the stock internals and crankshaft handle? Is 400rwhp to much for them?

 

Like with no worries or something could go wrong?

And where could I get good internals and crank?

 

if im not mistaken your stock crank is good up to 600 hp. your internals MAX at 420 hp

youll be fine with 400 hp. i know people who have been running 400 hp on a stock engine for a couple of years

 

400rwhp is about max, and VT for the internals

 

Well I want to add spray, a 100 shot.

And Im clueless on the internals....what size do I order and ect. I dont want to have to bore anything out, or is that the best way to go?

 

Just tell them you want forged internals but a stock kit to fit. if you did bore it out say .20, then you would need to get pistons .20 to fit. They usually have kits you can buy, just need to call and ask. also several mechanics and mustang tuners tell me nothing over 450HP to the wheels. Me, i really wouldn't go over 400-420HP to the wheels.

 

I have a buddy down here in the Springs pushin over 500 to the wheels Vortech S/C, w/sno performance kit, stock bottom end in a 03 Roush races it every weekend too! He has had it for awhile "badfdish" you probably know him? His name is Nick has the pretty blue Roush @ GW hangout! Dont know how long before his luck runs out? but his car runs very strong! has surprised a few 03-04 Cobras! He does take VERY good care of it!

 

If you call up The Mustang Depot you'll get the best price anywhere for forged H beams and Mahle or probe pistons. 951-369-0200.

with a good tune 400 is fine but even if there's a guy somewhere pushing 500 on stock internals, it's best to replace the pistons and rods and bearings with something designed to take the abuse. There's no point in ventilating the block or blowing the ring lands because you didn't want to put the money in to making the motor hold the power.

FWIW, I don't think that much of any hi-performance work should be done on an unbuilt bottom end. It's just not worth the added expense of repairs. .010 over is sufficient but you can go .020 over. Any further is asking for heat related issues on mod motors.

 

I agree with you 100% i was just relating to the fact that these bottom ends and rear ends aint as week as some people say they are! You have too really abuse the Hell out them! to make em give in! and some people can do that! but if you take care of them with proper maint. the car will go along way? Ive owned my car since new "1999" and it has had a N.O.S. since "2000" people gave me a year before boom! Knock on wood! car is still running solid! drive it everywhere! but again if your building a High horsepower car by all means!! If you can afford it, build a strong bottom end and have the extra piece of mind

 

agreed. Putting a hp limit on any part is generally ludicrous as there are way too many factors in play for simple ratings (especially one for total work done which has little to do with actual force applied) to be anything but gross generalizations. My take on it is, if you're going to whoop it, build it, and that works for most people since most people are a little irresponsible or have zero idea what they're actually doing to their car with their mods. If you're a smart driver and you take pristine care of your engine, always have good gas and a solid safe tune, you can do otherwise psychotic things to it and drive it daily.

Same goes for rear ends and trannies. If tranny ratings were anything but suggestions, then 3650's would be an endangered species with all the blown 01+ stangs out there regularly crushing the rated power handling of their stock trannies. Treat it nice, drive responsibly and you can have long life and high power.

 

Im in the same boat stage2. But im going with a Kenne Bell and have been back and forth on whether or not I want to build up my motor a bit. Who all has forged rods and pistons? How much do they run? How much are shops getting for install?

 

it's cheaper to just buy a built short block from DSS, CHP, Livernois, VT, etc...

The parts aren't that bad... usually 600 for pistons, 100 for rings, 200 for bearings, 400 for rods, 350 for cranks, 350 for fasteners, etc.. but the assembly will eat your budget alive if you piece it together.

I'm building a 5.4L and it's going to be badazz but pretty expensive in the end for all top shelf stuff and professional assembly.

 

So if I were to buy a built shortblock for say $2500 what other costs would be involved?