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I should of bought a GT500

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  #1  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:24 PM
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Default I should of bought a GT500

Here are some pics I got today from AED :rockon3: After I get the car smogged next week I'll take the supercharger so Vortech can do the SI upgrade. I still need to order a few parts for the motor swap to be ready. Plus I need to run the wires for the dual FPDM set up and install the 2 GT pumps in the Cobra tank then install that unit on the car. Once all that is done it will go to drew so he can install the motor, k-member terminate the wires and shaun will toon it :slap2: Should be done in a month or 2 :booze2:

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  #2  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:25 PM
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Ordered up a few of the last pieces;
-11 3" T-bolt clamps
-1 4" T-bolt clamp
-1 3.5" T-bolt clamp
-3 3" silicone (matte black) couplers
-Paxton 3" intercooler throttle body charge pipe. Got rid of the ugly cut 2.75" Vortech charge pipe that I ran forever.
-Trickflow black PC valve covers
-Moroso overflow tank
-Moroso power steering reservoir
-Canton windage tray
-Performance Automatic SFI 8 bolt flexplate

Still on the list is HPX slot style MAF, 60# injectors, C/C plates, intake manifold hardware, timing cover hardware, 3 bolt belt tensioner, water pump, power steering pump and now a alternator. Was given some info about a solution for the voltage drop issues Mustangs have...Dont want the fuel pumps dropping below 12 volts at WOT because the stock alternator/voltage regulator cuts out for no reason. If I can find a cheap 10% overdrive crank I will be all over it because that will help big time with some torque and belt slip. I will only be running a 6 rib set up.
 
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:27 PM
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I have the A.E.D. Signature series 1,000hp short block

Seasoned Iron Modular Block
Custom Diamond Pistons with Valve Reliefs for 2V heads
Ceramic coated Piston crowns and Teflon Coated skirts
8-bolt 4340 forged stock stroke crankshaft
4340 Forged Manley Connecting rods with ARP 2000
Stainless Steel Piston Rings
Thick Wall H13 tool steel wrist pins
'Race series' main & rod bearings
ARP 2000 Main Studs

Not pictured but we are also going to run Trick Flow Specialties Twisted Wedge 2 valve cylinder heads with a Trick Flow blower cam.

Originally, I was going to go with stage 3 patriot or livernois 2 valve PI heads but cores were on back order without an expected ship date. Made a decision and bought TFS heads. Hopefully, the TFS heads will flow just as well out of the box as the stage 3 heads.

The plan is to run 15 psi on 91 octane. Hoping to be in the 510-520hp range through the 4r70w and 3.73 gears.

Other things I have for the car
2003 Cobra tank
2 Ford 'GT' pumps
dual FPDMs to power each pump
96 mustang 2 valve timing cover with 3 bolt tensioner
trick flow valve covers
Vortech SI impeller upgrade
60# injectors
slot style MAF
Tial BOV
UPR K-member w/tubular A-arms
Coil overs w 12" 200lb springs
Tokicko adjustable drag struts

Long Block is ready to be installed...just waiting for a few things.

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Old 08-29-2011, 08:31 PM
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UPR K-member, coil over, tubular A-arms with 12" 200lb springs.

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What the inside of a Cobra tank looks like

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This thing is going to be a little loud

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  #5  
Old 08-29-2011, 11:51 PM
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Last pic is a blow-off valve?

What made you just not go ahead and do a return-style fuel setup to match the potential of everything else?
 
  #6  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:07 AM
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Yeah, its a Tial Q series blow-off valve. The car is going to be tuned as a blow-thru set up. Buying this used off a local guy. He said its loud. I'm going to test it out but if I dont like it I will do what he did and buy the Tial alpha Q series valve. Can barely hear it at full boost release (16-17)

I'm only going to be running 500-550 hp and I still have stock fuel lines and fuel rails. The gap in power is big because these guys havent done a 2 valve TFS head yet. They just finished up a stage 3 PI head with mild cam and that pumped out 550 hp with 17 pounds of boost running 91 octane. The car is identical to my build so I will have enough pump to get me to that number without having to add a BAP or change fuel lines or fuel rails. However, I'm not liking the fact that I have to buy a 500 dollar alternator with external voltage regulator due to the stock unit cutting out randomly at WOT. I probably wouldnt have those issues with a return style but I also dont have to buy a fuel line kit or modify the fuel hat to make that system work on my car. I had to make cuts due to my budget constraints. I do see where your going with this and it was in my original plan but things changed as time went on. The TFS took a lot of steam out of my budget thanks to PI head cores being on backorder.
 

Last edited by stanger00; 08-30-2011 at 02:09 AM.
  #7  
Old 08-30-2011, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stanger00
Yeah, its a Tial Q series blow-off valve. The car is going to be tuned as a blow-thru set up. Buying this used off a local guy. He said its loud. I'm going to test it out but if I dont like it I will do what he did and buy the Tial alpha Q series valve. Can barely hear it at full boost release (16-17)

I'm only going to be running 500-550 hp and I still have stock fuel lines and fuel rails. The gap in power is big because these guys havent done a 2 valve TFS head yet. They just finished up a stage 3 PI head with mild cam and that pumped out 550 hp with 17 pounds of boost running 91 octane. The car is identical to my build so I will have enough pump to get me to that number without having to add a BAP or change fuel lines or fuel rails. However, I'm not liking the fact that I have to buy a 500 dollar alternator with external voltage regulator due to the stock unit cutting out randomly at WOT. I probably wouldnt have those issues with a return style but I also dont have to buy a fuel line kit or modify the fuel hat to make that system work on my car. I had to make cuts due to my budget constraints. I do see where your going with this and it was in my original plan but things changed as time went on. The TFS took a lot of steam out of my budget thanks to PI head cores being on backorder.
Vids of BOV after its done. Or ban.

And I understand where you're coming from on the budget constraint. Heads can be VERY expensive. One of the cons to having a 4V car myself lol.
 
  #8  
Old 08-31-2011, 12:02 AM
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That ought be be killer when it's done. In for vids.
 
  #9  
Old 08-31-2011, 06:44 AM
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That things gonna be a MONSTER! Are those the 44cc heads?
Congrats and YES we need viedo!
 
  #10  
Old 08-31-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 08mustang_gt
Vids of BOV after its done. Or ban.

And I understand where you're coming from on the budget constraint. Heads can be VERY expensive. One of the cons to having a 4V car myself lol.
Once its all done I'll try to be there to video. I'm going to buy a Go pro and strap it to the pipe to record the BOV action.

Originally Posted by whitestang04
That ought be be killer when it's done. In for vids.
Thanks! and its going to be something else when its done

Originally Posted by TUFF 4.6
That things gonna be a MONSTER! Are those the 44cc heads?
Congrats and YES we need viedo!
Thanks!

Yes, they are 44cc heads.
 
  #11  
Old 09-02-2011, 10:39 AM
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Sweet man. Any eta on the finished product?
 
  #12  
Old 09-09-2011, 06:41 PM
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Motor should be installed a little later this month. I'm still driving the mustang right now. Will have to till I get a replacement car for the Mazdaspeed 3 that I totaled. I'm doing fine but I did a number on the car. I was driving too fast on a twisty road and oversteered into an embankment. Took out a no parking sign while I was skidding. Insurance company just paid off what was left of my loan and I should see the rest of the cash next week. So, once that is all done with the Mustang will get worked on.
 
  #13  
Old 10-13-2011, 05:49 PM
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I dropped my car off at the shop yesterday. I figure it should be ready to go in about a month. I still have parts that need to be powder coated and the Vortech needs to be sent off to be rebuilt and turned into a SI trim. Going to be pushing about 17psi with the 3.1" pulley at 6500-6700 rpms.

Since my last post.

innovaters west 10% overdrive dampner
water pump
powesteering pump
MM c/c plates
OEM 3 bolt tensioner
VMP HPX MAF with harnesses
MAC ceramic longtube headers
Lethal performance catted x-pipe
TIAL 50mm BOV (going to be stupid loud) may get the TIAL Alpha series 50mm it makes nearly no noise.

Those were all purchased over the past couple weeks. Holding off on the alternator for now. The wrecked Mazda helped cover those costs.
 
  #14  
Old 10-14-2011, 07:35 AM
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This is a badass build!!!

very nice man
 
  #15  
Old 10-14-2011, 06:29 PM
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Thanks! My wallet hates me though.

A few pics of the awesome thats waiting to be installed.

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  #16  
Old 10-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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You're not running E85 are you?

Regardless I will now be subscribing to this, because I am VERY VERY intent on seeing if those Division X pieces are as good as the Fore equivalents....need a triple pump return here soon and I would LOVEEEE to save some cash over the Fore (aka 24k Gold) pieces lol.
 
  #17  
Old 10-16-2011, 03:20 PM
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No, I could and probably will run E-85 at the track only. The tuner is funny about running regular 8000 fragola line with E-85 and he likes us to have a analyzer installed as well. I will be running a single -8 to a y-block with 2 -6 lines feeding each fuel rail. I'm keeping my car returnless. Just going to plug up the return port on the hat. This fuel hat is a quality piece and it came coated ready for E-85 but it is expensive. It looks just like the fore hat. I only bought it because I'm running dual FPDMs and cant modify the cobra hat to benefit from one FPDM powering each pump.
 
  #18  
Old 10-17-2011, 02:23 PM
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I replaced my lines 3x. Only thing worth putting on is Teflon lines that are carbon lined to prevent static. You will never have to replace them and will not leach any vapors.
 
  #19  
Old 10-17-2011, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by venom
I replaced my lines 3x. Only thing worth putting on is Teflon lines that are carbon lined to prevent static. You will never have to replace them and will not leach any vapors.
Yeah, that is the fuel line they told me to run with E-85. No weeping corn/oil smell in the garage while fuel sits in the lines and tank. But I already spent too much on everything else. Going to stay with the fragola stuff and move on. I wont daily drive my car with E-85 and will only have it in my tank 1-2 times a month during the race season.
 
  #20  
Old 10-17-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stanger00
Yeah, that is the fuel line they told me to run with E-85. No weeping corn/oil smell in the garage while fuel sits in the lines and tank. But I already spent too much on everything else. Going to stay with the fragola stuff and move on. I wont daily drive my car with E-85 and will only have it in my tank 1-2 times a month during the race season.
First set of hose were some SS braided stuff 93 gas dried it up. Second set was Fragola push lite hoses 8000 series which suffered the same fate as the SS. Once I put on the Fragola Teflon all the fuel smells went away. I know that its expensive but you will be wasting money replacing the lines and fittings again and again just like I did. I used the 8000 for catch can,FPR,bypass valve, boost gauge. Anything that has fuel I went with teflon lines. I can build two more fuel systems with all the fittings I have left when I could of done it right the first time.
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  #21  
Old 11-08-2011, 07:25 PM
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Update:

A few more pics of whats going on. UPR K-member, 12"/200lb springs, tokico illumina 5 way adjustable drag struts, then the motor with its 96-98 timing cover and the 10% overdrive. All new hardware was also used just didnt seem right to use 11 year old hardware.

Also keeping the stock lines for now.

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  #22  
Old 11-08-2011, 10:20 PM
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Your progress looks great. I love the look of those Trick Flow cam covers

Are you using a UPR coilover kit? If so, how was the fit with the Tokico struts? I am thinking about getting a set for my D-specs.
 
  #23  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:13 AM
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Yes, its the full UPR K-member kit with coil overs and tubular a-arms, its the only way the k-member will bolt onto the car AFAIK. The PA racing k-member allows you to use stock a-arms. The only one I know of at the moment that is affordable. Unfortunately, I didnt do the work. But according to Maximum Motorsports instructions for installing their coil-overs onto Tockico Illumina struts you have to pop the strut cap off. Takes a few hits with a drift and hammer to knock them off. After you do that slide the sleeve over the strut body and reinstall the strut cap. I'm not sure about D-specs...if the strut tubes are 2.5" in diameter the UPR coil overs will work. Not sure what kind of work is involved to get the coil over sleeve onto the strut body.
 
  #24  
Old 11-09-2011, 07:04 PM
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haah, you have to smog it. go Ohio.


nice project there. post some numbers once it's done!
 
  #25  
Old 11-09-2011, 07:31 PM
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Yup...But you still live in Ohio.
 
  #26  
Old 11-11-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BLWN 284
Lookin good, should be nice to have it back on the road
Yeah, I hope I enjoy the car more.


More progress.

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Plugged up the bypass valve openings.

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Degass tank and PS reservoir
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  #27  
Old 12-11-2011, 03:26 PM
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Nothing new...Getting close. PRI show, powder coating, small parts that were needed. Werent completely prepared so all of those things ate up a lot of time. I'm thinking the car will be running sometime next week.
 
  #28  
Old 01-18-2012, 01:58 PM
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that looks killer
 
  #29  
Old 02-22-2012, 09:15 AM
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Well, bad news. The transmission seized on decel after a dyno pull and when it seized it locked itself in 2nd gear at around 6k rpms while the car was supposed to be in 3rd gear. Needless to say the motor hit just over 9k rpms and tossed a main cap and destroyed the bottom end. The heads are ok just need light machine work and a couple valves replaced.

But this motor made 573 hp with 14* of timing and 16lbs of boost before that happened. Not bad for a lil 2 valve. Pretty close to 4 valve numbers.

Up next...Built 4r75w, Circle D multi disk converter and an aluminator....Have the option for a stroker but I'm stretched thin on funds. I also cant sue anyone because my built transmission is 6 years old and the failure wasnt caused by the engine builder/tuner. FML.

Definitely should of bought a GT500.
 
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