Basically am considering a stall converter to make the auto a bit more fun. Now from what ive heard they dont really affect daily driving all that much, but now ive heard otherwise. I thought that when you upgrade to a bigger stall, say 3500, that your car doesnt put as much torque at first on the lower rpms but still do, just not as much. So the only difference between stock stall, and 3500 or so would be just a slower startoff when cruising with a little bit more rpm. Now my automechanics teacher says, that the car wont start edging until around 3500rpms, is this true? I thought that all they do are, when you stomp it at idle, it throws the rpms to the rated rpm of your stall and then the car takes off. Correct me if im wrong, but to just cruise you would only have to give it a bit more gas than normal correct?

 

You are in the right direction.

I run a 3500 stall converter and my car creeps at idle just not as fast as a stock stall. I didn't notice any negative impacts on part throttle driving. My car will start to spin the tires at around 2500 rpms with a brake stall. I can flash the converter at 3500ish on a launch.

Once the converter locks it drives just like normal. A new stall is the best thing you could do to a auto car. You will need rear gears to maximize this though.

 

Yea, i plan on the mods bieng, 4.10s with 8.8. Then probably the stall, with trans cooler and j mod to plant some power from my wimpy motor. And thats what i thought, so if you give it a little gas as in cruising, it takes off like normal except a little bit slower? And if your at idle, then smash it, it jumps to the rated stall rpms?

 

If your converter is locked and you push the gas it speeds up like normal. But, if the converter hasn't locked then it will use a little more rpm but not much. Yes, the car will take off normal. Yes, if you mash the peddle it will rev up to rated stall before moving the car or rather spinning the tires. There will be slip with the converter so rpms will hang at times when your getting up to speed. My car is basically always at 2500 when I'm getting up to speed through the gears and once it locks the rpms lower a few hundred. I do a lot of 0 to 35 mph driving with my piece.

 

What is a good mph to lockup? And what would you recomend for a DD? Rpm wise

 

If you lived in the areas I did you would get pissed off. Cause my torque converter doesnt like to lock in. It feels like no powers getting to the ground, then it will lock in and jar your neck and the RPM's wont move like clutches are slipping. I wouldn't do it on a DD.

 

my car still has stock lock up schedule. The stock settings are good. For me I didnt like the fact when my converter locked at 95 mph (stock setting) because it cost me some ET. But, I ran out of rpm when we tested it with an unlocked converter.

The idea is to get a max stall about 200-300 rpms below max torque.

 

Kreno, it sounds like you need a new torque converter then. Mine does nothing like that..And stanger, dont most normally lock up at around 55 or so? What does lock up actually do on the converter?

 

If you are constantly having to hit your brakes then this will keep the converter from locking like it should. If you are having these problems install a switch to have it locked when you want it locked.

My overdrive shift is a bitch and it hits hard. Are you sure your not mixing these up? converter lock occurs before the overdrive shift.

 

I was talking about WOT. Your car will automatically lock the converter at 95. I played with different settings via pro dyno tune.

Your converter locks up constantly not just at a certain speed. You can feel it lock and hear a rpm drop. sounds like we have a 5th gear but we dont. Once the converter locks it isnt multiplying torque anymore and is acting as a direct link from the crank to the transmission.

 

So at WOT it locks at 95? I cant remember when my locks up because its been weeks since i drove it. I know it locked before 70 because at 70 id be going around 2k rpms. When it locks it basically is like final gear, and is mainly for cruising right?

 

It locks to get better fuel economy. Maybe yours does because its a V6.

If you have overdrive off and you are at WOT your car feels like it hits another gear at 70? Then yes that would be converter locking up.

This stuff is confusing. I hated doing research for converters. Made my head hurt.

 

Haha yeah its a bit confusing. Yea, when i hit O/D it seems a lot like a downshift and rpms shoot up to 3k. I HATE flooring my car at 70, it downshifts to second and its basically the end of second gear so it jumps the rpms up to like 5500 rpms and just sounds bad. If i wanna get a jump from 70 i gotta click my hidden O/D button then press to 3/4 gas till 80 then floor it because i dont want it to downshift to 2nd.

 

One word: Pointless.

Three words: Waste of Money.


/end

 

This is the best option for auto cars.

Cheaper then a manual swap. Especially if the manual trans you buy doesn't come with a clutch, flywheel, quadrant, cable, shifter, pedals, driveshaft and a tune to get rid of the auto fault codes.

I think the best thing to have at the 1/8 or 1/4 mile strips is a transbrake manual valvebody and a good billet converter. The bad all the heat it produces.

 

I realize all of that, I'm just trying to figure out the point of doing any of this work to a basically stock V6.. The J-mod would be nice, but I just don't understand why you would do a stall to a car like this at this point, seems like something to consider after you've got the power to put down.

 

Well the trans is gunna stay with the car even when i do a 5.4 swap and if someone is willing to let it go for a decent price ill do it.

 

I hate to burst your bubble but mod motors have a different bellhousing bolt pattern.

 

Whatcha mean?

 

As in it wont bolt up. The V6's use the Windsor bolt pattern, as in 5.0/5.8. Mod motors, 4.6/5.4 have their own bolt pattern.

 

Ah really? I didnt know this. So you cant have a stall converter to fit the v6 temporarily until the mod motor goes in?

 

I assume the input shaft is the same, I couldnt find anything to the contrary. As far as the bolt pattern to the flex plate, there again, I didnt see any difference's listed. So in theory, you could put a converter in your V6, then switch just the converter to a new transmission with the 5.4. Personally I'd just build another 4R70 and swap the whole drivetrain at one time.

 

I thought the 4R70W fits right up to a 5.4?

 

yes they do but your 4R70W has a different bolt pattern as a 4R that bolts up to a 5.4. You could switch the converters as along as the input shafts have matching splines.

 

Wait what? Im confused now, someone school me on what i gotta do.