Hey i needed some help...... I wanted to install a shift kit and Torque converters in the future...... But i was thinking... will it matter if install them first and then i do a mod.(ex trottle boddy,pullies,headers,) or even a supercharger will it affect the shift kit and torque converters? or it dosent matter... or do i have to upgrade something so it coudl work.? also which is the best torque converters for a 2000 automatic gt the max u could go with torque converters and that u wont **** up ur tranny..? a daily driven car.....???????

 

If you stay N/A with just minor bolt ons then it shouldn't matter whether you do the converter first or last. If you're going to supercharge i think you have to take stall speed into consideration. For a bolt on car i would say a 3200 stall lock-up convertor should be fine. For the shift kit i always thought Trans go was good, but some people have had problems with them. You will also need a tranny cooler. Remember that a converter, shift kit, and rearend gear alone, will make your car faster than all the bolt ons combined. If you want your car to be ~.6 seconds faster right now, then do the converter, shfit kit and gear. But you could always work your way up with the bolt ons first.

 

Very well said. I have most bolt ons but not the Tb/Plenu, or pulleys. I'm doing a 3200 Stall, 4.10 gears, and then probably a J-mod (I still have to do some research on this but I guess it's kinda like a shift kit?) Also, a tranny cooler is a must if you do any of these. I'm hoping to hit low 13's with 240RWHP with these mods.

 

aight thanks alot how much is the torque converters? and to install everything like how much will it be ?

 

I recomend a pi 3200 and a predator to firm up the shift. If you need any info email me at bigdude31513@yahoo.com.

 

Where are you located? Email me.

 

I would GUESS maybe around 1000 bux for both the convertor and install. Just a guess tho

 

Converters..... either PI or circleD If you are staying NA then a single disc will do. If you are going PA down the road you will need a multi- disc which is about $1000. Don't use transgo crap. Go to www.tccoa.com and look at the J-mod tech. You need a set of drill bits and $4 worth of seperator plate gaskets. Very easy mod to do yourself. VERY firm shifts when you want them. And stall speed is completely dependant on the torque the motor produces. My 3800 stall would likely flash up to well over 4500rpm behind a torquey motor. If you don't plan on racing with slicks or DR's then don't waste money on a converter.


Adam

 

What do you mean "if you don't plan on racing with slicks or DR's then don't waste money on a converter"? A converter is one of the best mods you could do to an auto. It doesn't matter if he will use slicks or not.

 

A brand new mult-disk PI torque converter will run you $1,000. What you could do to save some money is try to find a used one and send it to Circle D and have them rebuild it. Installation will probably be a few hundered dollars. So just for the converter and install make sure you have ~ $1,500 saved up.

 

I've been looking at getting a torque convertor. I was thinking maybe 3000 stall. I'll be doing around 255RWHP and 300RWTQ. This is basically the most HP I'll put out with what my plans are. And the other mods are 4.10's, tranny cooler, and either a shift kit or J-mod.

I might be getting blown tho with in a year of installing a stall convertor. My question is should I just wait on the convertor, or does it not really matter with a supercharger? Most likely it will be a centri blower if that matters. Thanks.

 

Have you ever raced an automatic on street tires stock? there is no slipping the clutch and its hard not to spin them and leave hard at all. Now, try it with a high stall, even more tire spin. Please know what your talking about before posting. I would venture to say I might know how to set up an auto car a bit better than you. Actually why don't you explain the benefits of a converter on a street tired car for me, besides massive tire spin?

 

On the street it's not all about deadstop/off the line/stoplight action. When you say all your gonna get is tire spin from the auto, it's just like saying don't get 4.10 gears for a stick if you don't plan on running slicks. Actually i have ran an auto before, but it was a 5.0. My uncle has 2 auto 5.0's and one has a built AOD with a 9.5" non lock up converter w/ 2800 stall and a Vortech pushing 10 lbs of boost on a stock 100,000+ mile motor. On the street the car is fun as hell to drive, even though it goes sideways for half a block. Punching it at 30mph and being able to squeel the tires is awesome. Keeping all that in consideration, it still managed to run a 12.80 and 110 when it had 90,000 miles on it, on the stock 225 goodyear eagle tires (never had any type of DR or slick on the car). Of course, slicks will get him better times, but there will still be a big difference on the street. He mentions that it is a daily driven car, so i doubt it will see the track often. My uncle's cars are also daily drivers since the time they were purchased in 1991. "Have you ever raced an automatic on street tires stock?" A stock auto hardly even spins the tires. He could always learn to ease into it and then punch it, although i see no need for that unless he is going to run a 4.10+ gear. So anybody who has a daily driven Mustang, DON'T EVEN WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY MODDING IT BECAUSE YOU'LL ONLY SPIN THE TIRES AND GO NOWHERE!

 

You'll probably have to change the stall speed once you get a blower.

 

this is my question.... lets say my tranny is goin out a lilttle slippin a lil... is it better to get it fixed first then drop shift kit & tq converters? or go with it then fix my tranny if it does mess up? or do u guys recomend those racin trannys i forgot the names of it..... i'll find out later.. can you guys help me out thanks alot.....!

 

If you're already noticing something wrong with the tranny have it fixed or rebuilt and have the converter, shift kit, and tranny cooler thrown in at the same time.